Hard to see from the pic. Are you on a slab that makes moving the outlet over not feasible?

does the 1250 include allowance for wall lining and any wall tiles but imo a 1m tall counter is much too tall for most average sized people so talk to the plumber about moving the floor pipe and/or taps or consider moving the sink between the washer and dryer before attempting anything else.. and cabinets for washer and dryer are the same as any kitchen cabinet and always assume that the plumbing and machines don't leak although a condensor dryer will be the best option to avoid condensation in the room

hi bigreader yes it's slab. Last time i do a slab due to these sorts of issues and others. No chance of moving the floor pipes already been done once. Moving the sink to the middle will work but it means I lose the nice run of benchtop space :-((

I’d put sink between and keep bench at one level. Post a layout

Sink between will compromise bench space. I'm going to put washing machine next to sink and squeeze the dryer in besides. There will be minimal gap between the two appliances, but I'll vent the dryer to the outside, and add slim aluminium ventilation grilles to the back of the bench top, to ventilate the approx 50mm that will be behind the appliances. The ventilation grilles are approx 509mm long X 50 wide

Ps I'd originally intended to stack the dryer above the wash mach, but seeing the space it would cramp it too much and block the , an open bench will be so much nicer. Have been struggling with this subconsciously all day. Thanks for input!

Have you considered which way your washer opens, except for a few most open on the right, so it works best to keep the sink to the right of the machine. My machine plumbing goes through the rear side of the sink cabinet and connects to the waste, likewise water pipes are at the rear of the machine, the tapes can be connected within the cabinet as a dishwasher would do

After looking at a couple of display homes I was surprised at the height of the vanity benches in the bathrooms. We had a similar problem when renovating our Federation house where the new kitchen bench was a bit higher than the bottom of the window. As our benchtop was timber we used this to run across the width of the window at the rear of the benchtop

What are the separate widths of the washer and dryer, any sink cabinet would have 18 side panel and then theres the wall cladding

Your waste pipe appears large ours is 50 wide so if you could get a fitting to reduce the size, you could cut the waste off at floor level and insert the fitting to hold a narrower waste pipe, a bit like the fittings used to reduce the size of old pot lights to take LED's etc. you would gain more width, I'am not sure if there is something available to do that

yes there is!! ..ask the plumber about relocating the drainage ..they might make you dig a chanel through the concrete but you are only needing a few cms of extra space

thanks OKL, but I was thinking of a Pipe Joiner which will fit within the larger pipe, I have seen different sized pipes joined, but certainly as you say speak to a plumber, there's only a tiny bit extra needed.

I was wondering if you were going to make the bench top deeper as well as machines are usually deeper than cabinets?

We mounted our dryer on the wall which gave us bench space underneath. The dryer came with special brackets when we bought it.

hi siriuskey and OKL the fitting you're referring to is a 100->50mm reducer. This image is the one that fits INSIDE the 100mmpipe, however there's also a fitting that sits over the 100

the plumber came today and he told me many houses nowadays get built with a much more snug fit around the under-bench washing machine/ dryer, so he assured me that 1220 clear wide, with a 900 clear height under bench space will be adequate. Also a 600mm deep bench nowadays is apparently common, so only around 50mm clear at the back. Nonetheless I will most likely insert either cable-hole grommets or this 500 x 50mm aluminium grille at the back of the bench to add extra ventilation. I'm using 30mm laminated w/p MDF as the benchtop, and will run a coat of wpm over the cut opening for the grille.

My carpenter will set the benchtop aqainst the wall using a - say - 5mm steel angle. The mdf will be rebated to 5mm to allow it to sit flush on the angle. So this will allow max clearance under the bench top for the appliances.

BTW while he was here the plumber cut back some of the concrete and fitted that internal reducer to the 100mm pipe, loaded it up with silicone around the joint. See photo. So that's given me an extra 100mm to play with anyway. It took him a total of 30 minutes, so around $60 at plumber rates (plus call out fee)

I'll start the screed tomorrow and waterproofing.

Thanks robinfk for the photo of your laundry - looks great btw. However I want to keep the dryer off the wall if I can,as this space opens directly onto the new sunroom and I"ll be using it for art/creative stuff. Also I want to keep the window as open as possible due to wanting to keep plants in the room/ as light and open as possible. May possibly add a very shallow cabinet to the wall, will see how it all hangs.

easy when you trust a pro!!

well I didn't really need to change the pipe, but it was simple enough to do, the plumber was there for another job. Im adding the ventilation on my own initiative. I dont totally trust 'curren't building methods, there are so many short cuts, and in terms of ventilation/waterproofing etc I prefer to overkill

yes the 900 & 600 are the norm, but some do a wider deeper benchtop to "build" the washer and dryer in, it can be just that section or the whole length which gives you more work space, it won't take away from the space as the washer etc is already taking up extra depth and in my mind looks so much better especially in a combined bathroom laundry, but it will take up extra width to split the sections as you will need an 18 panel next to the washer, what is the width of the machines and how much space did you gain overall

hi siriuskey the two machines are standard 590mm wide or thereabouts, around 550 deep each, around 830 high. That's a really good point, for the sake of 50mm to extend the benchtop. But I've already got the benchtop, bought it 2nd hand. Like I mentioned above, I will add ventilation grille to the back of the benchtop to compensate for the 50mm gap at the back.

Am doing all this on a super low budget. Will post photos once done. Im fitting a separate toilet, large shower, and laundry/handbasin into a space 1.4m wide x 4m long.

Is this the extension

hey siriuskey - yes it is, a long time coming but almost there now.

Posting a photo below of the cladding and glass block window along the side where the laundry is, taken tonight at dusk. The shower is right behind the glass block window - I like the idea of the sun streaming through the window. I have a lot of info to share on slabs/ small extensions etc. Second photo of the paving in progress, still covered in sand....

One more of the outside, still in progress... chimneys from old 1927 house behind

Fab pictures. Can I ask the size of your extension? My planned one is 9.2m x 6.2m in the planning stage. It will run across the back of a 1950s house but with a small link joining old and new. Love your doors.

Love the photos of the progress I used glass bricks in a bathroom in our last house years ago, the 1800 shower ran across the end of the room with a single screen which was open next to the tall glass brick window which also had a small push out window included at the top

It worked beautifully flooding the bathroom with light

hi bigreader - my extension is 9.5 x 4m approx, a straight rectangle at back of a double brick 1927 california bungalow. I've built it directly behind the original but structurally separate, so both can move independently. Heavy clay class M soils on a sloping site.

hi Kate thanks good observation! I had not considered this. I should be able to run a longer hose from the washing machine to put it on the left - intuitively it feels right to have it on the left.

with the bench grille I'll run a lick of waterproof membrane or oil-based enamel around the cut mdf, along with a bead of silicone around the grille. My preference was to use a sheet of cement board for the bench and to tile it, as a budget alternative to the ubiquitous caesarstone. However i have this laminate in hand, so may as well try it, it's a nice brushed copper finish

Hi Souzette,

Front loaders look great but can be a pain, We still like to soak things in the sink and getting anything like a sheet into the machine if it's not next to the sink becomes messy, so seeing that we try to avoid using the dryer we have the washer next to the sink

Our preferred way to dry things most of the year is on the clothes line or on the retractable line we have above the bench and in front of the window But then we all do things differently, and you live in a colder area.

Did you finish the original bathroom

FYI

The following link shows how to change the door on an Electrolux machine, not sure if it works on any others

https://www.cnet.com/pictures/switch-your-washing-machine-door-to-the-other-side/11/