a happy husband and wife is the most important thing in the house and there should be something to suit you both (there are so many to choose from) but with our latest renovation the style we liked did not have matching taps for shower and vanity so we chose different styles and haven't thought about it since!!

your plans and 3D looks excellent and i think it's a fabulous idea and great use of the space..we once had a bath space that was only 1200 x 600 built under a sloping roof with side access only 700 wide... the space was walled and tiled without a tub. (including tiles up the sloping ceiling)..worked perfectly but you have the luxury of enough space to add a bathtub that will be so much more comfortable and easier to clean and a standard drop in bath with the straight end at the front and layback at the far end ..standard installation just rotated with a nice low lip on the bath to make a flat ledge to line up your bubble bath and ducks...challenge will be getting the bath into the space.. there and a lightweight (often cheaper) bath may be easier and/or the installers may have to make a hole in the wall for access from the other end or the side and then refinish the walls...there are plenty of bathtubs that would fit the space but you'll need to discuss best options with plumber and tiler as they don't usually like surprises and, if a custom vanity was under the stairs with the sink offsett to the high side and the toilet behind the door there would be more comfortable standing space in front of the bath, a bigger vanity with more storage and easy access for towel rails near the bath..but, regardless of the width of the actual toilet, it needs to be installed close to the door (not centred in the space) to allow enough shoulder room but that means the door needs to be closed for broad shouldered adults to use the toilet comfortably..but that's not such a bad idea and another option for extra light (even in a downstairs enclosed room) is a Solar Skylight mounted on the wall or ceiling..research illume and Arcol brands for more info)

And to answer your question siriuskey. Yes the front room has been opened out into a verendah. This room got really hot in summer so wasn’t working as another living space. We’re restricted to what we can change at the front of the house as we are in a heritage area. We can make changes without a DA if we don’t change the front of the house. Agree we can change a lot with a wooden house, but I think we’ll be restricted on reusing windows. All our casement windows are original glass from the 1930s so won’t be to modern building code. If we move them, they’re gone. However replacing with modern glass would bring more light into the home. We’ve put fans in all rooms and always have the French doors open in bed 2 so light and ventilation haven’t been an issue. Might become so if we put a moody teenager in there though!

Yes, siriuskey. You are right again. It would be smart to invest in having a professional draftsman draw it up. But on face value, I really think oklouise's plan works. I have sort of drawn it out on the floor. I love that she is using standard size vanities with only a custom made top, and the towel shelves are now 450 instead of 250 wide, which is much better. The little odd-shaped infill at the end of the bath provides a spot for the lovely jug and bowl set my mother made for me. (I used to use the jug to pour water over the grandchildren's heads when I washed their hair, and now it's just a lovely decorative item with deep sentimental value) and there is space beside the bath for the urn filled with decorative soaps that was a gift from a son-in-law on his first visit to our home. I really think the bath needs to come back to 1500 long, but that's not an issue at all. I found a really nice shaped oval tub at 1500 x 760 that I like and is quite inexpensive. I don't need to worry about towel rails because I have a lovely timber free-standing towel rack that will fit nicely at the end of the shower if the shower door is placed on the side. It looks like the vanity drain can run under the drawers and into the bath outlet and the WC vanity will run under the wall into the shower drain, and all other plumbing stays the same except I'll ask the plumber to chase the shower tap and rose into the exterior wall rather than have it on the side, OR there is room for a false wall in front of the exterior wall to hide the plumbing if that works out better. The niche can go in the new wall behind the WC vanity. I'll be really surprised if this isn't a feasible plan, but I will take your advice, siriuskey, and get a pro to draw it up so I can be totally confident it works. Can't thank you enough, oklouise - and you, siriuskey, for all your efforts which, I think, contributed by generating new ideas and flushing out the important issues.