Reno finally done!
Firstly thanks for all of the comments and advice
over a few different threads!
It took us about 6 weeks from demo to completion 3 weeks for a toilet / useable showerand about 50000 change minds but we got there.
We ended up with a final design quite far from the original as we progressed overall im really happy with how it turned out and all the work of the trades i used.
I ended up with a wer room design and i love it, cleaning isnt too bad at all over the last 4-6 weeks of using it and almost no water gets behind the bath. If anyone wants to know specifics as they might be doing something similar feel free to ask away.
Comments (14)
bigreader
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Reno v Knock-down rebuild
Comments (41)We have a similar home in a sydney beach suburb. We are in a different position where we have bought ours as a downsized but are just about to restore the old 50s beauty to its former self. We have quotes of around $400000 to gut and change the floor plan which includes 2 bathrooms and a new kitchen and also add internal stairs to the garage and a large deck off the back, lift some ceilings and replace gutters, eaves ect ect ect. Attached are my inspiration boards and what the house looks like now, hopefully in about 4 months I can update you....See MoreNeed help with my first reno project!!
Comments (8)I think a mid-tone blue would be best. Something like a demin colour. Tropic Night by Dulux grabbed my attention, but at a half strength. I too am halfway through my own first renovation project - one that has grown exponentially, - and picking the colours was the hardest. I took some advice from the local paint shop, as well as from a interior decorator friend who works occasionally as a colour consultant with architects. Take as much advice as you can, and then throw it all into a mixer (your mind) and then - as others have suggested - go get a heap of sample pots and paint big (I mean BIG!!) swatches on the side of the house. Then take at least a week to keep looking at them in different lights, at different times and one colour usually will just become your favourite. That is the right one to paint. Best of Luck with your renovation project!...See MoreWhat order would a complete reno go in?
Comments (6)The most important thing for you to do is get a GOOD builder and SMART architect that'll help you drive your reno dollar further. The architect will come up with brilliant ideas that make what you've got work smarter for you and a good builder -well, they're just worth their weight in gold! They'll both allow you to be the client which is the most important role for you to take on. The builder will work out the order of trades so that your reno takes the least amount of time. They'll also be able to speak to trades in a professional way to get you exactly what you want. I'd really suggest that you go to an architect to get your design plans firmed up - particulary if you're doing any extensions and find out what walls are load bearing. I'd also strongly suggest in the most enthusiastic terms possible - do your home work - have all your plans and materials, appliances etc done BEFORE you even take down a door - changes during the process will cost you big money (not to mention irritate your building team)....See MoreNeed some thoughts on reno plans
Comments (101)If you "change" anything that involves a building approval then the floor area on the plans relevant will count towards the overall amount. If it amounts to beyond 50% of the existing conditions then the whole building becomes applicable to energy calculations and so you enter into up spec'ing existing areas. And yes it can often be a good thing to be doing anyway, but of course it costs money. If the total area being changes is below 50% then only the areas of new work are applicable. I'm honestly not a specialist in this area, but I have to deal with the issues naturally in the course of the design and resolution of project solutions I provide, and hence I use an energy consultant regularly and we have a way/system of working through together how best to achieve the requirements for permit. As far as I understand it's a case by case/project specific exercise and also there's various ways of negotiating/achieving the necessary performance requirements - e.g. you can play around with different levels of insulation together with a particular glazing/window spec, and depending upon circumstances you can save money one way or another. Sometimes I'll squeeze windows overall down to get it under a certain amount to not trigger requirement for expensive glass...also timber windows rate better, but if you are in a bushfire area you'll be caught out or require very expensive timber windows...it's a real juggling act in particular contexts...which is why you really need to be working collaboratively with an energy consultant/specialist to work out the best solution in this regard, as well as the other aspects of design, structure and bushfire etc. It's a true team effort ;) If you're really up for some technical reading you there is some further energy info here NCC Volume One Energy Efficiency Provisions 2016 - Australian ... but it may get confusing........Coming back to the core of it, my advice: 1. define your budget 2. list and prioritise your requirements 3. seek some preliminary advice/assistance from a seasoned designer doing this type of work to test whether or not the general concept of what your endeavouring to achieve is viable, and this depends upon the relevant context/existing conditions etc (and bushfire rating is yet another layer on top of all this), and then refine the concept from there. If you are just doing a bathroom or kitchen isolated then you can arguably do it yourself, but if you're re-jigging the whole house like it appears you are heading towards, and on a very tight budget then I'd highly recommend (to save yourself headaches and frustration going around in never-ending circles) to invest some of your available budget into front-end design, to get to a solution that works to your nominated priorities so you achieve a viable and professionally advised outcome. Trust me it will be money well spent. Have a great Christmas, and best of luck with continuing to work through it all :)...See More
Julie Herbert
2 years ago
macyjean
2 years ago
Leigh James
2 years agoLiz
2 years agoDaniel S
2 years agoLeigh James
2 years agoThanks Daniel, we've got 2.4m x 1.95, unless we rip out the linen cupboard in the hallway to give more space to the bathroom in order to do the layout like you've got, I think it would just be too tight. Stil a way off doing the bathroom, so will keep pondering! :)
Daniel S
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoThanks for the kind words.
It was a long process mostly the decision making and then in the middle of covid and the fact i only have 1 bathroom / toilet made going to a porta toilet fun.
If i was to do it again
1. i would consider reducing the shower size to even 800mm (Seems to be the next lineal drain size down) from the 900mm im using now. The previous shower was 1000mm but all enclosed and it feels way larger as on the bath side its totally open but before i went down that path i'd want to try it out. 900mm feels like luxury.
Try make ur screen and slope finish on the edge of the drain it makes cleaning way easier as everything goes right to the drain.
2. I'd perhaps go to a 900mm Vanity with larger dry area but to be honest it works well i the current format.As the room isn't super wide 1.74 i get a very small amount of water between screen and door but for the most part its not too bad. I'd have perhaps gone an even bigger single piece of glass but then it makes the room feel smaller.
Unfortunately when dealing with older houses and their smaller bathrooms your kind of always making some type of compromise.To get around this basically i've done the following.
1. 2 X Hooks on the back of the door which is direct across from the vanity
2. You enter get undressed hook ur old / new clothes on the hooks
3. Jump in the shower
4. Finish showering and the heated towel rack is directly in front of you (12v only as its a wet area)
5. dry off then return towel and move to the vanity area
All together it works well considering the space / limitations!
All the lighting / heated towel rails / exhaust fan is connected via smart switches so its timed to turn the towel rail on at certain times, the exhaust will keep going for 5 minutes after you turn off the main light then auto turn off etc.
photo below was after 2 people had showered, very small amount of water gets around the screen but everywhere behind the screen is dry
Melt In ACT
2 years agoDaniel S
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
Rebecca Fenn
2 years ago
Melt In ACT