Hi, probably too late to comment now as you've already gone with someone on this project. Along the wall is the most common solution as it is easier to create falls, particularly if you have large format tiles. You will get water out of the shower given this is a just a freestanding panel, and it will also be cold in winter (speaking from experience) without a door on it. In the Australian Standards you are required to have a 'water stop' or step down to at least 5mm - most people don't do this and this is where problems can start from a waterproofing point of view. Good luck - hope it goes well

What are the dimensions of the existing room without walls, where are the windows, in the toilet and over the vanity in the shower room? 3M x 3M what are we working with. If you remove all the walls except the linen cupboard and does the linen cupboard also have hall access? If so get the linen opening out of the bathroom and have doors to hall side, which will make both elements work better. I know toilets in main bathrooms are not everyone's cup of tea, but if you can have a 720 door from i take it, a hall, run a custom made vanity unit, and it must be custom made to fit exactly the space available, and take it from hall and over the toilet cistern, which should be a concealed cistern, maintenance panel is the flush plate, and just pan is displayed. Two vanities if needed, one bigger one is more on trend, and hang the cabinets off the floor under the vanity top, to make it look longer and makes cleaning under the cabinet so much easier. That leaves a lot of space for the bath where the second vanity unit is now, which would look fantastic as a freestanding type. A simple frameless glass or semi frameless glass shower screens, allow access to bath, so it might be say 1M wide, if you install those long grid type floor wastes and the shower is long enough you might get away without a shower door. New taps nice big tiles to ceiling and this will look sweet. Close off the toilet and it becomes a bit of a rabbit warren. R

I quite like the idea of concrete sleepers for your retaining wall. They keep the modern mood. Not sold on Ridgi's faux timber look, though. If your drainage profile would allow it, continuing the brick of the pillars would look quite good, too. For me, the biggest landscape issue is the almighty fight happening between the two different sides of the driveway. You have the stick-up-the-rear formality of the camellia hedge fighting the looseness of the grass and shrubs on the other side. You need to decide on a single mood and go with that. Really!! I'd go, actually, with a loose boulder or gabion wall with a planting behind it similar to that on the left (narrower) side of the driveway. Have a think about what you actually use that front lawn for, and if it's only there to keep the dirt from showing, add some trees and shrubs and underplanting. Shout yourself a tame forest! This will take up a lot of water if your climate's a bit wet, and stabilise the slope, too.

Some baths are more suited for shower baths than others. It depends on the flattish standing room at the bottom of the bath. Some baths are quite curvy and narrow. Make sure you stand in a showroom bath to see if it feels too narrow (without your shoes). You will need a four flange bath for tiling and waterproofing in your shower bath scenario. https://specify.caroma.com.au/products/baths/vivas/vivas-1675-anti-slip-bath Best of luck with your planning, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls/Dr Retro Virtual Visits