To Uyenvy Le...hope I got hat right...as they say "Great Minds..." I've never forgoten my early "nuddie days on Nauru Island" just after WWII...a whole tribe of little chocolate and vanilla kids with the whole Island as our playground...the older ones with a littley to watch over. Now, I was about to log off when I read an article by a fellow who says that its unhealthy to wash too much or have long baths...that in his opinion equate to "stewing in your own juice". He advocates a short shower without soap about tice a week otherwise a 'sink wash'....and expounds his theories based on the healthy, supple, smoothe skin of jungle natives who do not bathe or use soap....all their natural oils preserved....lalalaaa.. Started me thinking about an pleasurable alternative to "stewing" (his opinion)...I like to have a shower after a long bath both to close the pores and rinse off any.."juice". Oh YUK, why did he have to spoil my heaven! I spent years in Italy in a community where people did not bathe at all or use soap but showered briefly on Saturdays so to go to church on Sundays...it was the worst, so I'm not going to go without my ablutions ever again. But...what if there were such water restrictions that we were all limited to a measured amount of water per person? What of our showers and tubs? That started me thinking on how to remain sweet smelling and really clean. My solution was...SAUNA! I go up to the local Gym for a swim a sauna and a massage just to keep as much mobility as possible and I love the Sauna! You mentioned the Spa..but that requires copious water...then there's communal bathing...which is not something I've done as an adult...that also requires water plus...so SAUNA!... I am having increasing problems getting out of my tub. I'd researched the disability 'walk in tubs' that are filled after one gets in and closes the door on the side and in which one sits on a seat submerged in the water, the Molly Bather which is a belt that lowers one into and out of the tub...but being a permanent fixture it spoils the look of the bathroom...and I like pretty bathrooms as well as functional ones...So many options to getting into and out of a tub....some sort of pretty others not. Not because that fellow has worried me but just that I want to enjoy a really thorough, healthy invigorating cleanse that is easy to access, that is relaxing without making a bathoom that resembles sports locker room showers, the ablution wing of an institution or the disbility facilities in a hospital. Maybe remove my lovely tub and replace it with a state of the art practical sauna room could be the go. Any comments Houzzers?

Well, I guess you first need to think what you really want to use the space for. Will it be your main TV viewing area? (If so, I'd cosy it up with a big rug first). It's a shame to use it as a TV area though, since that means blocking off the sliding doors with furniture. I'm guessing at the moment you don't need as a little kids play area or teenagers homework area - but how about a home office, or even gym/workout area? (There's a great article on Houzz today about making smart home gym spaces: [https://www.houzz.com.au/magazine/step-up-your-workout-zone-with-10-simple-additions-stsetivw-vs~39722244[(https://www.houzz.com.au/magazine/step-up-your-workout-zone-with-10-simple-additions-stsetivw-vs~39722244).) Or, given, the sliding doors and tiles, how about a conservatory? An indoor herb garden, with some orchids, ferns and maybe even a small palm? Do you have a craft or hobby that could use a dedicated area? I'm thinking artistic types would love to turn the space into a mini studio - or I could let the person with whom I share my life play with his car parts there . . . (tiles! easy to clean up!) Of course, whichever option you choose for the space, I'd keep the cat climbing frame and snuggle-pod!

Hey Nik Star, I've had a PowerPoint play with oklouise's edits. This is what I meant about garage entry to the pantry and a laundry in the garage. The red arrows are to stipulate to the builder that level access is required. I added extra garage depth to allow for the garage, that would definitely impact your facade elevation. If you remove the wall between the butler's pantry and mudroom you would have a SUPER PANTRY! But a true butler's pantry in that it was supposed to be where you would land with the veg from the garden so you would kick your shoes off inside the door, so I've noted a little bench seat there, then head in and wash it before heading over to the actual cooking area. Then if you get rid of the sliders and reduce the storage to shallow shelving on the middle wall you would have plenty of space to manoeuvre with mobility devices. For the washing labour machines - washer, dryer, dishy - try getting those mounted on plinths so the load on your poor back is reduced. I have dodgy joints so I am researching all the ergonomic ways to design work spaces to help me when I get to the awesome stage you guys are at with getting to build!

Katrina My strong suggestions PLUMBING DRAINAGE. ONLY a Heel Guard linear grate at the door end SHOWER ROSE ( If you are replacing the ceiling, ceiling-mounted rose) IF NOT replacing the ceiling, with 2100 height of the ceiling ( Rose height ?? ) Discuss with company /plumber ) Rose position, if the shower is 950 + could be in long wall ( However, you will have back to glass when showering, my preference in door wall ) MIXER/DIVERTER, Default to o/head rose. divert to handheld rose, ( Prefer this combination, the majority of combination sets have chromed plastic components, are difficult to clean ( What will they look like 10/15 years? ) FLOOR The new floor must be of cement-based material, fixed as specified CARPENTER ( about $ 2,000, Labour cost ) Plumbing Timber Frame A NECESSITY. All walls must be plumb and straight. New floor, plumbing of walls, cut outs for recessed cabinet, niche, supporting timbers for wall hung vanity may take a carpenter up to four days and if you are moving plumbing he will have to return to fix down flooring days ( WALL LINING Thickness dependent on tile thickness if greater than 15 mm 9mm thick Villaboard is optimum 9 far more expensive to purchase and fix ) VIllaboard, or equivalent cement base product NEVER Water-resistant Gyprock WATERPROOFING Only double waterproofing to us is acceptable! Waterproofing under the tile bed AND on top of the tile bed UNDER FLOOR HEATING Check out kits and ask the Electrician to install ( he/she will be able to give you a quote ) They are not hard to install, however, Electrician needs to rough in GLASS PANEL ONLY 1200, 570+- is OK to enter shower most doors 600 TILING Step down 10/15 mm. floor graded to linear grate at doo end RECESSED CABINET NOT possible for structural reasons to have a 900 w cabinet line up with 900 w vanity. Any other questions, welcome Ken