Help! Floor plan advice
Hi. I'm looking to renovate and extend our 60s brick home. I will engage a designer, but want to come prepared with a few ideas. This is the existing layout, windows in green, sliding doors from living and Bed 2:
Must haves are a third bedroom and a ensuite bathroom for the master bedroom. Nice to have is a second living area / kids room.
This is one layout I've developed, but I'm struggling to think outside the box:
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and will really help when I'm meeting with designers down the track!
Comments (13)
4 years agoBed 3 might be better as rumpus as bigger than other rooms. Or try this getting wir for master, which I light on storage
B Tilly thanked Kate- 4 years ago
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New floor plan for east facing block - advice appreciated
Comments (45)Shifting the laundry will create a larger laundry and allow for a 'kids bedroom zone' with better access to bathroom for all 3 minor bedrooms. Place the rumpus where dinning is. This can be separated or use the great sliding wall/door idea. It also allows view from kitchen. I agree with moving the fridge and creating a more open WIP. This also allows for a WI Linen - which could be opened up to the mud room, or even a powder room. I found the front living room to be an awkward size and shape so did a slight rearrange in that area. This gives the Living Room access to the north facing patio/outdoor area, tying all the living spaces together while keeping them seperate....See MoreAny advice on my new floor plan?
Comments (139)Hi there Dave, sorry for not responding sooner, I have been a bit unwell. I would like to add the following ideas. 1) You mention going to a kitchen company and showing your current kitchen plan, the better thing for you to have done would to have taken your floor plan with measurements and asked them what they would suggest, as long as they didn't want to charge you. This way you would get more ideas, not just them politely agreeing hoping to get your business, and why not, 2) I would contact several builders to come on site and give you their ideas of what needs to be done and advise if you would need to involve council and the building costs involved in doing this. The builders will have their own trades electrical and plumbing that work as a team 3) You mention flat packs, they are a great option and can save you a lot of money, Bunnings will do a kitchen plan and cost in store at no charge, Ikea will do the same but not sure about any charges. You can also go online to both and work out a plan, but I would strongly suggest you speak face to face them as they know their product. Bunnings run in store programs where they show you how to assemble their cabinets, both stores have video tutorials, believe me it's worth watching as flat pack anything can be a nightmare. If you can assemble your own cabinets in your own time it will save you a.lot of money, starting sooner than later would be a very good idea I didn't get up to mentioning in planning the layout of your kitchen that the larger the cabinets you use will also save money, ie 2 x 900 as against 3 x 600, the cost per unit plus instead of paying for 3 cabinets to be installed it's 2. It's also makes for a simpler looking design. Most of our Bunnings kitchen is made up of 900 units 2 x Drawers & 900 units 3 x drawer. The exception is 800 cabinet for the sink. 5) Cook top, I would strongly suggest you work a 900 into your kitchen (this would mean having to use a smaller cabinet either side or just between the cook top and the wall). 900 cook tops give superior space to use especially when using large pots/woks and fry pans, they also help to protect laminated bench tops from accidental put down and burns, 6) Range hood, the best look for your kitchen wouldn't be a large stainless wall mounted unit and that's good news as the intergrated ones in over head cabinets would not only look better, give more storage and would cost less. 7) The Island, you have been trying to decide what size, well if you don't have plumbing installed, the island can be free standing with or with out plinths and can be moved if you decide you need more space. You do need to have a couple of power points but make sure they have a longer connection. Our Island is 2.7 x 1200 and has both a cook top and oven with power points and can be moved approx 500m in each direction due to having longer connections. 8) Bench tops, you mention laminate due to cost, we had that problem what with the size of the island. So we went with Plywood (not Marine) We went to Mr Plywood who when the next delivery came in chose a piece with a beautiful grain, had it cut to size and delivered. The plywood sheet came in a 3 meter length but not all do, we had enough to do the sink bench and a top for a tressel table & legs my better half made. cost with delivery 2hrs approx $400. We did a shadow line bench top which had a smaller size white set back under lay. You need to use a good two pack pot sealant on the Plywood. Finally I don't know where I got the picture of the retro coloured kitchen cabinets, but look online at both Bunnings and Ikea cheers...See MoreFloor plan advice for newbies. Please help!
Comments (16)Hi Kieran, I've spent a fun Sunday playing around with this... thanks for the challenge! Jumping in to post it though, I think my ideas overlap with Siriuskey and Lucia. Isn't it funny how similar solutions can be arrived at independently! Key points: - As far as possible, I've tried to stick with the existing walls. - Since Bed 2 & Bed 3 are quite small already, even though I've encroached into each to achieve separate entries, the impact is minimal, particularly for Bed 3. - I've used pocket doors to both ends of the WIR and to the store room for optimal functionality. - I've depicted Caroma Urbane compact toilet suites with wall concealed cisterns because they save a bit of space and both toilets can use that extra space in that direction. - It's a very stageable design. You may for instance decide to build the ensuite/WIR and reconfigure the bed 2/3 entries without doing any of the kitchen changes. Or you may decide to save the expense and not move the main WC into the existing store, though it does add a fair area to the living space (I've used the exact existing footprint of the store to save cost and demolition pain which is workable with the Caroma Urbane, but alternatively you could demolish and rebuild the wall behind the pan for a more spacious loo). - The Family/Dining area ends up being fairly generous and very flexible. I've added a door to the end of the corridor to screen the loo a bit better from the dining area and for noise separation for the study, but you may prefer to leave this off. - I've not mucked around with your windows, figuring the important thing was to get the concept down for you, except in the ensuite. Really good idea there to have a central mirror with a narrow window to each side to throw light on your face at the mirror. Has the side benefit of a symmetrical effect which is always good aesthetically. - I've also flipped the main bathroom door to relate better to Bed 2/Bed 3, though not strictly necessary. - I originally used the Bed 1 robe space as a big walk-in-pantry, but it didn't relate particularly well to the kitchen and it also left no provision for general storage. Rather than take up a lot of valuable kitchen space with a pantry which would reduce the length of the peninsula breakfast bar (not ideal), I came up with the idea of shallow shelves with a roller shutter which I think you'll find give you an amazing amount of readily accessible storage. I'd like to think it would be possible to source a horizonal roller shutter that would coil back into the dead space at the back of the fridge, but perhaps better to just go with a vertical shutter and avoid the headache!...See MoreFloor plan advice
Comments (16)Hi Dee, All really great ideas here and there are a few more questions that need to be answered: Where about are you? What is the climate? How old are the children and is this your forever home? Do you like to cook and what sort of things? ie cakes, baking, huge dinner parties, Indian curries?!? Very important to have a vague idea of budget and whether you are looking to do all renovation in one mess or would you prefer to do sections? My unique business uses my design, functionality, sensitivity, life experience knowing how a home should function and how you want it to work for you. Also my building knowledge to minimise changes to the existing home but maximise benefits for long term for your family. I produce scaled sketch design drawings that you can take to builders and tradesmen for comparable quotes. Your dilemma is just the ticket for my skills! I would love you to PM me or call and we have a chat. Kind Regards Margot 0419 348 546...See More
4 years ago- 4 years ago
Yes - living room and bed 3 are extensions to the original home, both on concrete slab. The front of the house is wooden floors on piles. Block is 18m wide by 45m long, house is on the elevated back half of block. I don't really want to build out front as I have plans for an outdoor area there (garage / pool / decking / lawn). Double brick house with single brick internal walls, tile roof. We will replace the entire roof with colorbond as it's at the end of it's life. We can go about 5m back from the living room before we hit a retaining wall so can't build all the way to the back boundary. Side boundaries are only a couple of meters away each.
- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
before making any realistic suggestions we need to understand the existing spaces but your plan shows bed 2 and 3 as projecting out further than bed 1 but the roof doesn't show a corresponding change of shape?...assuming that the roof is correct you need to add dimensions for width of kitchen, laundry, toilet, bathroom and width of original bed 3 and can you please show locations of windows and external doors and what is space beyond the existing living? ... pending confirmation of details my suggestions would be to build new kids bedrooms and bathroom at the back with part of bed 3 as the rumpus, have a master suite at the front with part of bed 3 as wiw and original bathroom as ens and powder room and rearrange the old laundry or add a new extra laundry with the new kids rooms and use original laundry for a pantry...the biggest challenge will be the new roof but maybe the extension could have a skillion roof tucked under the original eaves but that depends on available ceiling heights
B Tilly thanked oklouise - 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
replacing the whole roof shape is a significant cost and, having replaced a similar roof, you will find that it can raise the height of the highest party of the roof and creates an opportunity for a loft!! ...the new roof would probably need to look like this and could have stairs in the rumpus without losing space from any other room
- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
new dimensions add other options for the family bathroom, ens and an alternate laundry allows for a pantry in the kitchen but also creates extra challenges for a new roof
- 4 years ago
oklouise