Help! Gap between cavity slider and brick wall
Ben Millar
last year
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oklouise
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I NEED HELP WITH ROUGH THICK UNEVEN BRICK WALLS
Comments (24)Hi dinkidi4, I'm dealing with the same thing right now. I did paint some of the walls white, which have been good for the time I've been here before doing the 'real' job, however, I don't want this really textured look from the bricks as there are too many walls. I'm about to try Dulux Acra tex on a wall to see if it gives a smoother bagged finish. So still showing the brick lines but not so rough. I'll show photos of the original bricks. Dark, very textured with lots of holes and missing bits of brick as well as deep grout grooves. Such a hard decision - cost and I don't want to make it a flat boring plasterboard house. I have extremely high cathedral ceilings so not a cheap job to plaster either. Excuse the white box - I was playing with it to look at removing arches. Any thing else you've found out since would be a great help...See MoreGap between skirting n timber flooring and cracks on wall
Comments (7)The gap can be filled with quarter round timber or beading if that's what you call it. Check Youtube on how to do the corners cos there's a little trick to it. No I don't believe your floors will necessarily stop cracks opening again. They're usually caused by expansion and contraction in the soil beneath your house. They are not terrible cracks - just spackle them up with polyfilla and be prepared to do it again every few years particularly if you have a very dry or very wet year. Removing trees can affect the walls as well as the roots are no longer sucking up moisture from around the house....See MoreCavity Slider Units - What are the high end brands.
Comments (2)Ive discovered CS Cavity sliders... do a soundproof cavity unit - but only for a 90mm stud wall. Mine is 70mm. But I have since found Acoustica (annandale) and bought soundproofing stuff that I will fit between the noggins myself. There is also acoustic gyprock and loads of other amazing products! Ive had to go for a normal cavity slider door (CS cavity sliders) but adding my own hardware as I wanted a Soft close (can only get that on the 90mm stud cavity units). Bought BRIO hardware. Hoping it will all work well. And yes - a solid core door!...See MoreExternal wall mounted doors
Comments (18)Hi Dr Retro, Thank you. I really appreciate the input and the time you've taken to explanation your point of view. I really do want to get an understanding of where the issues lie in this design. So I hope you'll forgive me digging a little deeper. I don't quite follow why you think the design would require a 6m lintel. Yes, it does require a 6m track, but the track can simply be attached to the wall. The weight of the door need not be supported by the top track. It could be supported from below. The whole point of putting the configuration on the outside of the wall is to minimize the need to make structural changes to the building. There currently is no capacity to install a 6m wide external sliding door/window unit. Likewise I don't follow why the door should be any draftier than any other external sliding doors. The cavity is on the outside of the wall, so draft is not going to get in via the cavity. Other sliding doors of the unit type have the same draft problems this configuration would and solve it by using an overlapping flange at the front end of the fixed door and the back end of the slider. The same could be applied here, where we treat the wall as the fixed door.The point at which the doors engage each other has also be solved for other door configurations. It is just a matter of having a loose tongue and groove configuration. Again this is exactly the same as a unit providing center opening sliding doors. Finally the same sliding mechanisms are used in other sliding door configurations, so I don't see why that should be any draftier here either....See MoreBen Millar
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