I can only give you my experience. I've lived for over 20yrs on real hardwood floors. And every time I stand on any kind of laminated plank it looks and feels like cheap plastic. There is just no comparison to actual wood flooring. Timber absorbs vibration, feels pleasant underfoot either barefoot or shoed. It looks real, because it is. Timber planks are 20mm thick, laminate ones are 5mm. Laminate flooring looks like a printed piece of plastic because, well it's very similar except for the top 2mm of veneer stuck to it. It may fool us in brochures and magazines but I've never once been fooled by laminate in person. They can give it all the fancy names they want like 'engineered' but at the end of the day it's all the same stuff. Laminated veneers on cheap plywood. But not one person on the planet has ever fooled that it's a real floorboard. Does timber scratch? Absolutely. So don't put a piano finish on it then. Stick with satin and matte finishes. It shows up the marks a lot less. Does timber dent? Absolutely. But those dents become part of the character of the home over time. I recently lived in a home with floorboards over 100yrs old. They had dents everywhere and yet those boards just looked lived on, they didn't look terrible. Does timber suffer water damage? Yes of course. But before you worry about it, go and check out the thousands of 100yrs old hardwood homes sitting on flood plains in this country. Every single one of them has been underwater more than once in it's lifetime. The original boards are there, strong and unfazed. Unless you plan to flood your home for weeks on end the occassional spill and overflow won't damage the timber at all. I'm a quality over quantity type of person so of course I'm going to rate going with the lifetime option over the rip it out every 5yrs option. If I had the money for hardwood I would not even consider plastic planks.

It is probable that your hall will continue to be dark, and that the lights will need to be left on, even once you have painted the timber-work. Perhaps check out some options for improving solar access - Velux sky windows, solartubes or Illume fibre-optics. Given the cost you will be looking at to paint = sanding prep, 2 x coats of sealer, 2-3 x coats of paint + labour (if no diy)......would you consider a wallpaper?? leave the timber architrave and wallpaper over the panel with a neutral-white seagrass wallpaper ??

hi all, thanks for your comments and support. We have received the ATFA inspection report which clearly outlines numerous problems with the floor which are solely caused by the poor installation. The installation does not meet the manufacturers specifications or Australian Standards. The slab was too uneven, far more than the recommended allowance, and was not properly prepared prior to the laying of the boards. We have since been back in touch with the installer. He was not happy and initially tried to act as if he was shocked, even though we highlighted problems with him even before he finished laying the boards. He also tried to make us feel guilty about taking the action that we did. Now with the report, there is no way he can deny that he is at fault. So, we are now in the process of getting quotes to have the floor pulled up, slab rectified and new boards laid by a professional wooden floor installer. We may not have to remove the whole kitchen and it may be possible to all be done by removing the kickers and panels and cutting the boards out. Even though this is not ideal, we have our fingers crossed. However, the extent of the problem will not be known until the boards come up and see what damage/problems are underneath. it has been a very stressful, inconvenient and disappointing experience. I think we have reached a point now where we know we just have to get on with it and get it done. This is not something that we have ever had to go through before and we are really feeling out way in the dark. There is certainly no joy in having to confront someone about their poor workmanship. We believe that the installer has been in touch with his insurance company, but whether they cover him for this type of thing, I am not sure. I guess that is for him to sort out. The floorboards are engineered oak and directly stuck to the subfloor. The glue he used was called wakpol or similar, but we have since been advised that a foaming glue probably would have been more suitable for this job.

I will be the loan naysayer and go: Vinyl Plank timber pattern tiles. I did these in my kitchen and they helped make the room. Used Karndean, but any European brand should be fine (avoid American and assume they are using American or worse if they don't say the country of origin). http://www.karndean.com/en-au/floors/landing-pages/new-looselay-longboard?gclid=CjwKCAjwspHaBRBFEiwA0eM3kQ7eEFPH5FlK2IwV3o7ZsbbmJ19srG0OM_tWK5dhPMNyDdwxGPUr4BoCoYcQAvD_BwE Caveats: Ground must be FLAT. 100% flat, ruler FLAT. If not you will have to level. If flat, you can lay them yourself. Our floor had to be levelled and it was tough. still got a few high patches and gaps because of that. However I have done it on a concrete surface myself since and it's beautiful. Benefits: Nice and soft on the foot. (less ankle pain) single tile replacement. Looks fantastic. No PVC glue fume issues and fairly resilient. Do be wary though of metal chair legs scraping the floor. Waterproof! when installed right with no gaps! (why I would choose them in a kitchen over timber or Eeek carpet!.... Yes previous owner installed shagpile carpet in the kitchen).