The previous suggestions are fabulous, so if you have the money, I would go with one of them. If you haven't the money, then I would do what an earlier reader mentioned and have the bed facing north near the bathroom. You can run a power cord along the floor and you can buy white plastic covers that hide the power cord discreetly on the skirting board. Then place a chair and small table beside it near the bay windows to balance the length of the room and perhaps hide the power point. This is not the best solution as it'll make the bed hard to make and have little room for a bedside table. But it is cheaper. Just an alternative. Another way to do this cheaply would be to do what Two Company's Renovations suggested but instead of building a wall using your cupboards as the wall and making your own large, bed head to cover the back of both of the cupboards. Just a thought. Still building the wall or walk in may not be as expensive as you may think. Worth getting a quote.

just had a look at your existing plans for the second storey.. 1/ I'd make it all open plan .. First I'd move your bed 4 downstairs into the theatre room..reason ? bathroom is existing down there..you can turn it into a master suite..bathroom..study as retreat. which then leave you all that room ..bed 4 ..kitchen ..meals..lounge..foyer to just be one huge living area.. from that living area you can pop in a stacker door/bi folds to lead to your screen verandah. Personally I'd get rid of the screens and open it right up with banisters so you can have fresh air flowing in. You can do the same with the front as well to make it one huge area without much changes.

Hi You will need some info before you can calculate this with span tables, but on the face of it you will need an engineer for something this heavy. Firstly, there are two types of load. One being dead load (eg walls, roof, flooring etc and essentially anything that is permanently part of the structure) and live load (eg people, furniture and anything movable). Failure to account for live load is what happens when balconies collapse. When calculating spans, the maximum floor mass (dead load) is assumed at 40kg/m2 in AS 1684.4. If you are wanting to add 800kg over the 2.7m2 you are talking about approx 300kg m2, or nearly 8 times the maximum mass. You are already overloading the floor without getting into calculating what the existing floor can take. With this kind of weight I would be definitely speaking with an engineer. Before you do speak with an engineer, there are a couple of questions that need answering first. What size are the existing joists (eg 90 x 45), then what are they set out at. If they are eg 450 or 600 centres, then the centre of each joist will be 450mm or 600mm away from the next one. Then you need to know the size of the bearers and again what they are spaced at, along with the space between the stumps and their sizes. I would also take along a series of pics of the underside showing the condition of the bearers, along with either some specs of the stump footing size and depth. If you don't have specs I would have a scratch around and see if you can measure the width, then poke down with a rod to see the depth. It's rough but it will give you a good starting point. An engineer will then tell you what reinforcement is needed or what your options are. Cheers.

Hi Lili, There are certainly 'rules of thumb' when it comes to artwork. We wrote a guide on how to measure up for the perfect size artwork and its actually not that difficult to find an artwork in the dimensions you need... if you know where to look! Art is very personal choice, but you might like to take a look at the original collections in our online gallery. We produce all our artworks bespoke, in the exact dimensions to suit - either a single panel, or multiple panels, as you'll find illustrated in the gallery. A relevant project review is linked here https://www.houzz.com.au/viewReview/682538/signarture-review Below is another popular example of our frameless perspex artworks - and in that position, benefiting from the changing light through your full height glazing, would create wonderful shadowcasting. There's plenty more inspiration in our gallery - please just PM if you find something you love!