Is this slope too steep for a cut and fill slab home?
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Comments (3)As Pazz has said, definitely check the council regs first for the front setback, etc... I had a friend who did a similar job at his place about 10 years ago. He excavated all the way along the front of existing house and added a double garage, external stairs up to a balcony (and the existing front entry) and a rumpus room with internal stairs and bathroom. The external entry stairs went up between the garage and rumpus. The area above the rumpus and garage had a suspended slab that got tiled and is used as a balcony. The area in front of rumpus was excavated as well, obviously and was paved with some landscaping. Looked fantastic! The works, like all construction, needed engineering drawings but his was all concrete and masonry so ended up quite expensive....See MoreSloping block site costs
Comments (4)Hi Jessica, This is not a question that can be answered without the very the specifics of your site and the design of the home you are trying to place on it. Even for a ball park figure. 1m does not sound like a very severe slop to be adding allot of additional site costs. Pole frame home on a very steep site can avoid allot of additional cost, if you do not want to make it a flat site and leave the natural slope in place. On the other hand, placing slab-on-ground on a moderate to low sloping site at the wrong levels can add a ton of cost. This all assumes that the ground you are looking at on site is the Natural Ground level and doesn't have a load of fill. Once there is allot fill you will need to have the piers of the house drop down through the fill and into the natural ground. This can get expensive if you need allot of them at many meters each. There are also many other factors that could drive the cost of the land down, like easements through the site. How much of the site is actually available to build on? There could also be zoning issues, can you actually build a house on the site? In NSW all this information is contained in a Section 10.7 Planning Certificate that the local council can provide you and is usually attached to the contract of sale. I assume that there would be similar information available in other states also. Call your local council to learn more about the site and what can or can not be built. Hope this helps you find more information to understand how much you should be paying for the site. Additional site cost are only 1 possible factor and these can change this type of construction best suited to the site....See MoreConcreter has filled stormwater drain with concrete! Need advice!
Comments (3)Your concretor is never going to fix the problem he has created to your satisfaction and to an appropriate and professional standard of his own free will to remedy his laziness. I am assuming that he has been fully paid for his shoddy work. I wouldn't allow him (or his plumbing mate) anywhere near my property again. I would be paying my own plumber the $4500 to fix it, or get a few more quotes from some other plumbers - sometimes a clever plumber can work out a cost-effective workaround. Then speak to your lawyers to write some aggressive letters demanding compensation, but there is no guarantee that you will get what you are owed. Without knowing how big the slab is $2200 seems very cheap for the amount of work, bobcat hire and materials needed, and perhaps should have rung alarm bells about you get what you pay for. I would also be keeping the QBBC informed as this scam artist is giving registered tradesmen a bad name. Best of luck, and sorry for your bad experience Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls and Dr Retro Virtual Visits via Zoom....See Moresloping of shower floor
Comments (28)Katrina My strong suggestions PLUMBING DRAINAGE. ONLY a Heel Guard linear grate at the door end SHOWER ROSE ( If you are replacing the ceiling, ceiling-mounted rose) IF NOT replacing the ceiling, with 2100 height of the ceiling ( Rose height ?? ) Discuss with company /plumber ) Rose position, if the shower is 950 + could be in long wall ( However, you will have back to glass when showering, my preference in door wall ) MIXER/DIVERTER, Default to o/head rose. divert to handheld rose, ( Prefer this combination, the majority of combination sets have chromed plastic components, are difficult to clean ( What will they look like 10/15 years? ) FLOOR The new floor must be of cement-based material, fixed as specified CARPENTER ( about $ 2,000, Labour cost ) Plumbing Timber Frame A NECESSITY. All walls must be plumb and straight. New floor, plumbing of walls, cut outs for recessed cabinet, niche, supporting timbers for wall hung vanity may take a carpenter up to four days and if you are moving plumbing he will have to return to fix down flooring days ( WALL LINING Thickness dependent on tile thickness if greater than 15 mm 9mm thick Villaboard is optimum 9 far more expensive to purchase and fix ) VIllaboard, or equivalent cement base product NEVER Water-resistant Gyprock WATERPROOFING Only double waterproofing to us is acceptable! Waterproofing under the tile bed AND on top of the tile bed UNDER FLOOR HEATING Check out kits and ask the Electrician to install ( he/she will be able to give you a quote ) They are not hard to install, however, Electrician needs to rough in GLASS PANEL ONLY 1200, 570+- is OK to enter shower most doors 600 TILING Step down 10/15 mm. floor graded to linear grate at doo end RECESSED CABINET NOT possible for structural reasons to have a 900 w cabinet line up with 900 w vanity. Any other questions, welcome Ken...See More- last year
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