We installed a skylight over shower (velux fixed) in a tiny ensuite and I would highly recommend. It looked absolutely amazing and was heavenly to shower under the sky. We only had the house for a year and sold it (about to install another skylight over shower in our new house), so I can't comment on the long term, but no mould problems or condensation drips. I think if anything the sunlight was actually helpful to dry up moisture. We live in Tasmania so I'd doubt condensation dripping would be a problem elsewhere. We had a fan installed not in the cavity with the skylight but just on the ceiling next to it. In the second bathroom we put in a skylight over bath and put an extractor in the skylight cavity as the ceiling was higher. Could not feel a draught- so I think the question of where to put fan really depends on ceiling height. Do the skylight over shower!! You will not regret it. It really takes your bathroom to another level and there are really no maintenance problems if installed properly with custom flashings. I found velux quite repellent of dirt etc, we did not need to clean after a year (one flat roof skylight, one very large sloped) and I have seen velux skylights looking great with no cleaning for 7 years plus.

if you plan to remove the existing master ensuite you may find that when repairing the walls and floors you may have an option to put another door through near the existing toilet to rearrange the access to the ens and wiw to a more convenient place and size but, before making any specific, plans you should carefully measure all the spaces including the halls and bathrooms as the plans have some inconsistencies that make it difficult to make suggestions ...are all the internal walls brick and what is the floor made out of?

m_walker5, just from the 2 photos so far it seems to me the main first improvement to that space would be to remove the wall to the kitchen, so you need to find out if this is loadbearing or not. Stick your head up through the ceiling manhole to see how the structure is framed. If it is fully framed (rafters, ceiling joists, struts bearing down on internal walls) chances are that that wall is loadbearing. On the other hand if it is gangnail trusses (triangular frames with W braces held together with metal nail-plates) you are in luck. These typically span between outside walls and internal walls can usually be changed or removed easily. This is your staring point for deciding how far you want to go with this depending on budget, and is the point where you should involve an architect/designer to work out a comprehensive renovation plan. I have just completed a very similar project where the renovation was urgent (kitchen cabinets were falling off the walls!) but the budget was greatly reduced as the owner unexpectedly lost one source of income. We managed to do a full kitchen renovation, remove walls to create larger open-plan spaces, full re-sand and polish of floors, full internal repaint, all for about $80,000.

only way to find out is to measure the room...use chalk or pencil to draw a line on the wall across the top of the bedroom door and around the sides of the room...make sure the line is level...now measure from the line to the sloping ceiling where you think the loft could come out to... what is the height at the outside edge of the loft?...is there enough height for the framimg and to climb into the loft...keeping in mind about 75cm height is similar to sitting under a table or desk ..much less becomes too short for more than storage??..is it wide enough for a bed ie at least 1m x teh width of the room? the biw can be about 60cm deep but the floor of the loft could overhang the biw but too much will encroach on the space "downstairs"...this rough sketch shows how the ceiling slopes lower but the exact amount can only be shown by on site measurements...a wall of built in storage would be useful, narrow sleeping platform could be fun but anything that takes up more floor space spoils the use of the room