How do I know if I need to redo my whole bathroom or just regrout?

last month

House built in 1976. Brick veneer on brick piers. Bathroom over corrugated suspended slab with corrugated iron. Bathroom renovated by owner in 2012. Plumbing positions changed and slab drilled for new drain. Walk in shower has a strip drain in the middle. A long time ago (2 years ago) went to clean drain and because the grate was tight the bottom of strip drain lifted up. I set it back and sealed. Recently noticed loose grout +++ & cracks on the shower floor. Only feel a very small vibration on one of the tiles under the shower Have now stopped using the shower. Have not found water damage on adjacent rooms. I have looked under the slab and there is some rust in the metal reinforcement of the concrete slab, and maybe some efflorescence old or new, not sure on the corrugated iron. There is efflorescence on shower floor. Can’t get a clear opinion from professionals. And this is very frustrating. Confused about what I need to do. Has the waterproofing membrane broken? Can I regrout with epoxy and keep as is for five more years before redoing bathroom. Do I need to redo this bathroom now?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

bigreader
last month
You’re assuming that there was a new waterproof barrier/membrane done in 2012. You can buy moisture metres from Bunnings that will allow you to monitor surrounding rooms and the flooring outside the shower area. The signs underneath the slab are normal for the age of the house. I’ve had two 1950s houses with similar. Grout is not waterproof so cracks aren’t necessarily an issue but wider ones will let more water through to the membrane underneath which cthe bathroom in five years I’d sell the shower base over the top of the existing (you can regrout if you’re fussy)
Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author
last month
I am pretty sure that the old owner had done waterproofing. We have under floor heating and I was told that this can interfere with moisture meters readings. But I have not seen any moisture in the adjacent rooms, which I guess is good. One of the many concerns regarding the strip linear drain is the tight fit to the and difficulty with sealing this as there is just 1mm gap between the tray and the tiles.
Related Discussions
Bathroom redo
Q
Comments (8)
Has the plumber advised that it all needs to come out? Or do you want to start afresh? If you want a mid-century look go for light timber and white vanity. Stay away from the 'bowl on the vanity' look and go for a recessed sink. I'd also think about doing something gorgeous (but minimal and modern) with tiles and lights. See the pix below the brass mid-century wall scones give a great effect as do the herringbone tiles not eh walls and black honeycomb tiles on the floor. The key is to keep the palette monochrome (white, grey, black) and add some decorative features. If you want to save $$ (which I always recommend to save on the structural stuff so you have some extra for the fun things) is to keep the plumbing in the current position (unless that is really unworkable).
...See More
How should I approach my 1950s bathroom reno?
Q
Comments (16)
Don't wish to upset anyone but the last two years of my father's life it was discovered besides and really bad aortic heart valve problem he also has asbestosis and his breathing was shocking, even on oxygen near the end he still struggled so badly it was horrible for him and just as bad for me to witness it so PLEASE everyone I agree 100% no room for error as the symptom don't show for years after exposure, whatever you decide make it on the SAFE side and don't mess about with your health, my dad was a strong sporty man his whole life and to see him end up like this was heartbreaking, if you can't afford it now find a safe paint and save money until it can be removed ASAP, I think right now get a few quotes too see what you are up for then decided what way forward after removal, good luck and take care
...See More
tiles in bathroom - do i have to choose specific for wet area?
Q
Comments (3)
hi my husband is a builder and I know about tiles a lot . there is nothing for wet area tiles . all tiles are floor and wall tiles. yea you could use rough surface tiles in wet area but it's depends on your style but you don't need to choose only rough surface . in wet area you must have to do waterproofing before laying your tiles . you can all choose from cremaic tiles to porcelain tiles. you just need to measure wall hight and width then tiles shop guys they we will work out how many sqm you need or give them your floor plan they can work it out.
...See More
Fresh eyes needed on my master bathroom plans
Q
Comments (20)
yazrav wanted the ens next to the central courtyard with outdoor shower for access to the hot tub for communal use, swopping the kitchen and pantry was to create more space for the bigger island for family crowds, add some privacy to the courtyard and reduce the south western glass...the dining table in my plan is 3m long and the extra small room off the master suite makes an ideal nursery with space for biw, large cot, nursing chair and change table and in the big study i've added a wall to wall 75m deep desk and overhead wall to wall shelves with space under the desk for drawers, storing bean bags and there's office chairs and full height wall to wall bookshelves at the other end
...See More
Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author
last month
Strip drain. I am concerned that since the tray lifted up when I removed the grate, that I might have broken the waterproofing membrane. But I don’t understand really how all this works.
bigreader
last month
This is from the Australian standard on waterproofing. It will be behind a paywall but you can search for other installation images. It’s not the gap between the tops and the channel part of the drain you necessarily need to worry about, more if pulling up the channel ripped or punctuated the waterproofing. But you won’t be able to determine this without causing (more) damage. Your choices really are to run some silicone along the join and apply some sort of over the tile shower sealer and see how it goes or to rip it out and waterproof the lot. Ripping it out seems a bit extreme when you’re not sure if you even have a problem.
Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author
last month
☹️
Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author
last month
Your comments make a lot of sense. But is it possible to reset the channel touching up the waterproofing membrane under the drain, seal the drain, and then regrout the shower floor with epoxy? Or is this likely to cause more damage?
bigreader
last month
That’s a question for a plumber/waterproofer.

How do I know if I need to redo my whole bathroom or just regrout?

Comments (7)

bigreader

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

Related Discussions

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

bigreader

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

bigreader

COMPANY

EXPLORE HOUZZ

CONNECT WITH US

How do I know if I need to redo my whole bathroom or just regrout?

Comments (7)

bigreader

Adrian FatichentiOriginal Author

Related Discussions

Adrian FatichentiOriginal Author

bigreader

Adrian FatichentiOriginal Author

Adrian FatichentiOriginal Author

bigreader

COMPANY

EXPLORE HOUZZ

CONNECT WITH US

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author

Adrian Fatichenti
Original Author