For most projects we are engaged for we begin with what we call a "feasibility" stage of service which is structured to provide clarity in regards to what are the logical and viable project approaches. The exercise considers options/variations of a nominated project scope within the specific context and applies accurate cost projections to a considered array of scenarios/options in broad form. We find this exercise to be is extremely helpful, particularly when people are scratching their heads with how far or how exactly to best approach a renovation/extension. What it does is provide the client with accurate information and understanding of what is possible in a particular format and for what cost and can hence they are better positioned to make properly informed decisions one way or the other moving forward. Whenever a significant property/project investment is being considering we believe it makes sense to allocate a proportion of the investment to professional advice that will help focus the project direction to both best suit a particular circumstance and also result in a maximised outcome/value.

En-suite layout is fine, Looks like you have a double hung window with a slightly lower sill to the vanity height. . I’d put a stool in front next to shower screen. Update vanity and top and splash back, maybe lowering mirror. Could put a niche in the side wall if want extra storage. Could change mirror to a cabinet, even if it protrudes, mine does, A smaller basin would increase spaciousness and bench space. Can also increase depth of vanity, to 550. Replace floor tiles if you want but I’d leave shower if you want to keep costs down. otherwise retile to full wall height will improve look. Could add a pendant light over left side of vanity

I have an Edwardian villa I restored 7 years ago and my master bedroom is on the street front as well and not that light. I have 2 bay windows in the house. I struggled with privacy too (I can can sit in m bed on Sunday morning with a coffee and see people walking their dogs!) and when I go to get changed I don't want to pull curtains and change in the dark. Also my lounge bay has gorgeous stained glass work that I didn't want to cover, Btu I have a beautiful front garden that I want to be able to see. I looked at several solutions including shutters and had quotes etc, For the bedroom I decided on roller blinds, sheers and also a beautiful silk curtain. Sheers for privacy and to control the sun, roller blinds for darkness add a bump lined curtain for added insulation and sound proofing, The Lounge: I used sheers and a full length curtain with bump lining. I also have placed my curtain tracks quite high up to complement the high ceilings. I decided on this as sheers give you privacy, control the sun; curtains give you insulation and also soften a room; both options can be pulled back off the window so that you can appreciate and see the window; they also complement the style of these older homes, If I was to do this again there are amazing thermocell blinds that can be attached at the bottom meaning that you have the option of pulling then from the bottom up. If you pulled them halfway up, his gives you privacy but still lets the light in.The have amazing insulation properties and they give you a cleaner look if that is what you are after. If I was dressing the windows again I would definitely look at this option as an alternative, I really encourage you to not install shutters or wooden venetians. I think they can darken a room and be heavy looking. I know lots of people install them in villas but I personally don't think they are the best or only option. PS just re-looked at your photo: I would recommend a sheer and curtain on a double track, Place the track higher; make sure the track is wider enough that the curtain can stack off the window; consider a wide heading tape (eg 160 mm is what I used to suit the proportions of the room and curtains). .

Assuming all your windows are similar in height to the one in the picture ( taller than they are wide ) I'd personally do just 2 panels . If you really wanted , you could even ask for a solid 'narrow beam' down the middle so they look almost like 4 sections . If you hinge them twice , and have 4 sections across each window , it will be quite fiddly , and maybe this makes me lazy , but why purposely make something that needs 3 or 4 fastenings at the top , another 3 or 4 at the base , and special holders to hold them firm when they are opened . Wide plantation blinds , with a catch each side , is all it needs .