Gardening
Long-Term Care Galvanized metal is durable, water-resistant and easy to clean. If the sides get dirty, you can wipe or hose them down. One thing to watch out for: If the stock tank gets dings or scratches that go through the protective zinc coating, the base metal can rust. You can protect a new scratch from rusting by spraying the nick with a galvanizing compound. For an older scratch that’s already rusting, you can try using steel wool to remove the rust, completely dry the surface and then treat with a galvanizing compound.
Optional Steps Install wheels. Once filled with damp soil, large stock tanks can easily weigh 300 pounds. To make moving a filled tank possible, you may want to add wheels when you’re drilling the drainage holes. Given that the wheels will be exposed to water, choose a pack of four that are either stainless steel or galvanized. Add extra insulation. If you live in a hot summer climate and intend to place the stock tank in full sun, you can add a layer of insulation, such as an old carpet or cardboard, along the interior walls of the stock tank before filling it with soil to keep roots from touching the metal sides. Lighten the load. Depending on what you’d like to plant, you may not need the entire planting depth of the stock tank or want to use that much potting soil. Instead, use a filler material, like empty soda bottles or upside-down nursery containers, at the bottom of the trough and layer potting soil on top.
Drill drainage holes. Flip over the stock tank and, using a quarter- or half-inch metal drill bit, drill plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Plan to drill about two holes for every square foot of the bottom of the container. Spray the holes with a galvanizing compound to protect them from rust. You may also want to cover the holes with a fine wire mesh to keep soil from leaking out and clogging the holes. 2. Position the stock tank. Move the tank into place and then boost it up on bricks, cinder blocks or four-by-fours to facilitate drainage. If you’re boosting the stock tank, make sure you have enough support under the trough so that it doesn’t buckle from the weight. Contemporary Landscape by Arterra Landscape Architects Arterra Landscape Architects 3. Fill it with soil. If you did not cover the drainage holes with wire mesh, arrange some pottery shards over the holes to help prevent clogging. Next, fill the container with a mix of fresh potting soil, decomposed compost and any other organic soil amendments you’d like. Mix well to distribute the nutrients. 4. Plant. Plant seedlings or directly sow seeds in the soil of the trough. Arrange plants by mature size and height to...
Choose the right nozzle. Pressure washer nozzles are measured in degrees — those that shoot water in a very narrow area have the strongest spray (zero is the strongest) and should be used very cautiously. For most homes a nozzle with a 40-degree spray should suffice, so start there and work your way down to a 25-degree nozzle if necessary.
Choose the right nozzle. Pressure washer nozzles are measured in degrees — those that shoot water in a very narrow area have the strongest spray (zero is the strongest) and should be used very cautiously. For most homes a nozzle with a 40-degree spray should suffice, so start there and work your way down to a 25-degree nozzle if necessary.
If you’ve accidentally knocked off some leaves, you can use them to start new donkey tail plants. The same propagation technique can be used for cut stems, which will form larger plants more quickly. Allow the leaves to dry out for a few days and form a callus. Lay them on a bed of cactus and succulent potting mix in partial shade until roots form (in a few weeks). Pot up the cuttings in small containers filled with a fresh cactus and succulent mix and move them to a space with bright, indirect light.
Donkey tail thrives in spots where it receives partial shade to, more ideally, bright, indirect light. Direct sun can cause the tender, fleshy leaves to burn. In summer, hang a basket filled with donkey tail from a covered porch or veranda that receives morning sun, or grow the plant in a bright window indoors year-round.
Autumn Fern and Japanese Forest Grass You can get a delicious dose of fall foliage color — without allocating the space for a tree or shrub — with autumn fern and Japanese forest grass. Both plants thrive in partial to full shade and look lovely in woodland settings or mixed in containers. The leaves of autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora, zones 6 to 9) turn from medium green to a rich gold-bronze in fall. The foliage of Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra, zones 4 to 9), particularly hybrids like ‘Aureola’ or ‘All Gold’, doesn’t change color in fall, staying golden throughout the growing season (early spring to fall in cold climates; year-round elsewhere). Light requirements: Partial to full shade Water requirements: Moderate water for autumn fern; moderate to regular water for Japanese forest grass
Q