Water World: How to Install a Drip Irrigation System
Save time and water with a drip watering system in your vegetable garden – a little patience now will pay off later
Drip irrigation is often the first choice for an edible garden. It provides slow and consistent water to the roots of each plant, where they need it the most, and prevents fungal diseases and weeds. It saves you water, because you measure the amount you use in litres per hour rather than per minute, and it practically eliminates water loss from overspray and evaporation. It’s also easier to install and more flexible than an in-ground sprinkler system and, once it’s in place, it requires less hands-on time during watering – a plus for those with larger gardens.
Before you rush out to get the parts, realise that it takes some time and a bit of patience to install drip irrigation, though not as much as an in-ground system. Plan on a day for installation – or two, if you have a lot of ground to cover. Drip systems also require more upkeep throughout the growing season – emitters and water lines are easily dislodged, damaged and clogged. Fortunately, they’re also relatively easy to troubleshoot and repair.
Before you rush out to get the parts, realise that it takes some time and a bit of patience to install drip irrigation, though not as much as an in-ground system. Plan on a day for installation – or two, if you have a lot of ground to cover. Drip systems also require more upkeep throughout the growing season – emitters and water lines are easily dislodged, damaged and clogged. Fortunately, they’re also relatively easy to troubleshoot and repair.
Before You Buy
If your edible garden is relatively compact and level, your watering needs are fairly uniform and your water pressure isn’t too high, a prepackaged drip irrigation kit designed for vegetable gardens will probably have everything you need, including step-by-step instructions. It’s a good way to get started.
If things are a bit more complicated, you’ll need to do some preplanning before you head to the store. Don’t despair. It seems like a lot to do, but simply consider these guidelines for making the most of your system. It is possible to skip a step or two and chances are, things will be fine.
Again, the beauty of drip irrigation is that if what you put in doesn’t work, changing it is much easier than redoing an in-ground irrigation system.
How Do I… Clean and Care for Garden Tools?
If your edible garden is relatively compact and level, your watering needs are fairly uniform and your water pressure isn’t too high, a prepackaged drip irrigation kit designed for vegetable gardens will probably have everything you need, including step-by-step instructions. It’s a good way to get started.
If things are a bit more complicated, you’ll need to do some preplanning before you head to the store. Don’t despair. It seems like a lot to do, but simply consider these guidelines for making the most of your system. It is possible to skip a step or two and chances are, things will be fine.
Again, the beauty of drip irrigation is that if what you put in doesn’t work, changing it is much easier than redoing an in-ground irrigation system.
How Do I… Clean and Care for Garden Tools?
Start with the garden’s design. There is always the familiar rectangle or square patch of ground, either small or large, with neat and tidy rows of plants, but before you commit to that, consider other options.
Densely packed spaces may be traditional, but access to the plants and the crops might be easier with smaller garden beds connected by walkways or perhaps with a U-shaped or keyhole design.
A mature yard might mean your vegetable gardening space is limited to pockets of space among the ornamental plants, making your garden part of the growing movement toward edible landscaping.
If your soil is problematic or if you just want easier access to crops, a series of raised beds, each with its own blend of plants, might be the way to go.
Browse edible gardens from around the world
Browse edible gardens from around the world
Plan your drip system
Once you’ve laid out the design, do a rough draft showing the overall size of the garden(s) and where you’re planting what.
Once you’ve laid out the design, do a rough draft showing the overall size of the garden(s) and where you’re planting what.
- Make a copy or two of your rough plan and then draw how the system will be set up. Draw the main line to the garden. This line, which has no emitters, should be no longer than 60 metres if you’re using 13 millimetre tubing.
- Decide where to attach any branch lines, emitter lines and microtubing. The branch lines will most likely stretch down straight rows. Emitter lines, which are flexible, are good for spreading plants, such as strawberries, and for unusually shaped spaces. Microtubing can extend off the branch lines or main line to encircle individual plants or reach tight spaces.
- Add the emitters. Plan for each emitter to cover at least 60 per cent of the root zone (the distance the roots spread). For closely spaced vegetables, place an emitter with every 30 centimetres; slightly farther apart for clay soil and slightly closer for sandy soil. If your vegetables will be farther apart, place an emitter at the base of each plant. You might want to add one on each side of the plant to be sure the root zone will be covered. The slower the drip rate, the more emitters you can install, though you may have to water longer.
Do the math
There is a limit to how much water the tubing can handle. Start by adding the total outflow of all the emitters you plan to use.
If your planned water flow exceeds the recommended maximum, you’ll need to either use larger tubing or add a second circuit to your system. You’ll also need a separate circuit for microsprinklers and sprayers.
There is a limit to how much water the tubing can handle. Start by adding the total outflow of all the emitters you plan to use.
If your planned water flow exceeds the recommended maximum, you’ll need to either use larger tubing or add a second circuit to your system. You’ll also need a separate circuit for microsprinklers and sprayers.
Installing the System
Once the preliminary work is done, you can start installation.
1. Start at the water source, which for most systems will probably be an outdoor tap. Before you start, be sure the polyethylene tubing has warmed up and softened to avoid kinks and difficulty snaking it where you want it to go.
2. The head assembly is all the pieces that sit between the tap and the tubing itself. Start with a timer, if you want one, then add the antisiphon unit, fertiliser injector (if using), main filter, pressure regulator and swivel adapter.
3. Insert the main-line tubing into the swivel adapter. Lay out the main line from the tap to the garden, unrolling as you go and leaving some slack for adjustments. Stake periodically to hold it in place.
Once the preliminary work is done, you can start installation.
1. Start at the water source, which for most systems will probably be an outdoor tap. Before you start, be sure the polyethylene tubing has warmed up and softened to avoid kinks and difficulty snaking it where you want it to go.
2. The head assembly is all the pieces that sit between the tap and the tubing itself. Start with a timer, if you want one, then add the antisiphon unit, fertiliser injector (if using), main filter, pressure regulator and swivel adapter.
3. Insert the main-line tubing into the swivel adapter. Lay out the main line from the tap to the garden, unrolling as you go and leaving some slack for adjustments. Stake periodically to hold it in place.
4. Add the branch lines past the individual plants and any emitter lines. Stake the end of the branch line in place, just past the main-line tubing (overlap the main line a bit). Continue to stake out the branch lines, keeping them a bit slack for fit.
5. Cut the main line to insert the branch lines. You can use a special tool, pruning shears or a sharp knife. Insert the fittings into the drip lines to form the connection. Use a combination of gentle pushing and twisting, and cover any barbed fittings completely. Don’t force anything. Instead use hot water (not soap or oil) to further soften the tubing if needed.
6. Once everything is laid out and connected, run water through the system to flush it out. When the water runs clear, turn off the water and close the ends of the lines with end caps or clamps.
5. Cut the main line to insert the branch lines. You can use a special tool, pruning shears or a sharp knife. Insert the fittings into the drip lines to form the connection. Use a combination of gentle pushing and twisting, and cover any barbed fittings completely. Don’t force anything. Instead use hot water (not soap or oil) to further soften the tubing if needed.
6. Once everything is laid out and connected, run water through the system to flush it out. When the water runs clear, turn off the water and close the ends of the lines with end caps or clamps.
7. Add individual emitters and any microtubing to the branch lines. Make sure the tubing is lying straight, then hold the punch at a right angle and gently twist as you insert it. If you have a separate system with sprayers, set that up as well.
8. Check for leaks, clean any clogged emitters and reposition any wayward tubing or emitter lines.
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8. Check for leaks, clean any clogged emitters and reposition any wayward tubing or emitter lines.
Read more gardening stories
Troubleshooting
It’s fairly easy to determine what’s causing a problem and to fix it. Very little water getting to a plant usually means a clogged emitter. Clean it with a thin piece of wire. If that doesn’t work, simply replace it.
If there’s no water at all, and the emitter isn’t completely clogged, check for kinks in the line. If you suspect clogs, remove the end caps and flush the entire system. Taking out the emitter will let you check for a lack of overall pressure.
Water where there are no emitters, or puddles forming, generally means a hole or a leak. Use goof plugs to fix the former. For slits or cuts, make a clean cut on each side of the damage, then use a coupler to hold the two ends together. Flush out the system (remove the end caps) before using it again to clean out any dirt.
Popped emitters mean the pressure is too high. Install a pressure regulator that will lower the pressure.
It’s fairly easy to determine what’s causing a problem and to fix it. Very little water getting to a plant usually means a clogged emitter. Clean it with a thin piece of wire. If that doesn’t work, simply replace it.
If there’s no water at all, and the emitter isn’t completely clogged, check for kinks in the line. If you suspect clogs, remove the end caps and flush the entire system. Taking out the emitter will let you check for a lack of overall pressure.
Water where there are no emitters, or puddles forming, generally means a hole or a leak. Use goof plugs to fix the former. For slits or cuts, make a clean cut on each side of the damage, then use a coupler to hold the two ends together. Flush out the system (remove the end caps) before using it again to clean out any dirt.
Popped emitters mean the pressure is too high. Install a pressure regulator that will lower the pressure.
Other maintenance
If you live in a cold-winter area, drain your system before the first hard frost or freeze. Disconnect the head assembly from the water source and store it indoors.
In spring, once the danger of frost and freezes has passed, flush the entire system, then check for any leaks or other damage. Repair or replace anything that is damaged.
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If you live in a cold-winter area, drain your system before the first hard frost or freeze. Disconnect the head assembly from the water source and store it indoors.
In spring, once the danger of frost and freezes has passed, flush the entire system, then check for any leaks or other damage. Repair or replace anything that is damaged.
Tell us
If you found this story helpful, like it, save it, and share your thoughts below. Join the conversation.
More
Find a gardener or landscaper to help with your garden set-up
The parts of a drip irrigation system can be found at most garden and home improvement stores. Your basic system will include:
- Emitters, which deliver water from the lines to the soil. Emitters with different rates of delivery can be used in a single system. The slower the drip rate, the more emitters you can add to the line and the greater distance your drip lines can run.
Note: When planning for emitters, take your soil type into account. Use emitters, either at each plant or, for closely spaced runs, spaced 30 centimetres apart.Additional components. Other options you might want to consider: