5 More Fixes for Common (and Annoying) Problems Around the House
In the second of a two-part series, experts share their tricks of the trade for repairing five pesky problems at home
Georgia Madden
21 May 2020
Are niggly little problems around the house driving you mad? Don’t put them off any longer – experts reveal how to flex your problem-solving muscle and fix five common household issues.
See the first in this two-part series here for more great tips.
We’ve accompanied these tips with beautiful and inspiring images from the Houzz archives.
See the first in this two-part series here for more great tips.
We’ve accompanied these tips with beautiful and inspiring images from the Houzz archives.
1. A sticking door
Ross Veitch, a qualified tradesman and a Hire A Hubby franchisee in Templestowe, Victoria, says: Stubborn, sticking doors are a common problem we come across when we transition from long dry periods to extended wet spells. It’s usually caused by ground movement under the house as the clays and soils expand and contract.
Here’s how to fix the problem.
Ross Veitch, a qualified tradesman and a Hire A Hubby franchisee in Templestowe, Victoria, says: Stubborn, sticking doors are a common problem we come across when we transition from long dry periods to extended wet spells. It’s usually caused by ground movement under the house as the clays and soils expand and contract.
Here’s how to fix the problem.
Tools you’ll need
Is your home descending into chaos? Restore order with the help of a home organiser on Houzz
- Screwdriver
- Screws
- Wood glue
- Box of matches
- Planer
Is your home descending into chaos? Restore order with the help of a home organiser on Houzz
How to fix a sticking door
- Check the condition of the door hinges and screws.
- If the screws are loose, you might be able to stop the door from sticking simply by tightening them.
- If the hinge is bent out of shape, replace it and see if this prevents the door from sticking.
- If the hinge screws won’t tighten properly, try replacing them with the next gauge up or a slightly longer screw. A box of matches and some wood glue can be used to pack out the screw hole and create a tighter fit.
- If neither of these are the problem, you may need to plane down the offending section of the door to regain that clearance.
- If you don’t have the tools, skills or time to do this yourself, a professional should be able to fix the problem quite quickly and easily.
2. Damaged silicone
Russell Hampton, a qualified tradesman and a Hire a Hubby franchisee in Bayview, Queensland, says: If left unattended, that peeling or damaged silicone around your sink, laundry tub or vanity can allow water to seep through and damage the wall or structural form behind it, which can lead to bigger (and more expensive) problems.
Fortunately, it’s a fairly easy fix.
Russell Hampton, a qualified tradesman and a Hire a Hubby franchisee in Bayview, Queensland, says: If left unattended, that peeling or damaged silicone around your sink, laundry tub or vanity can allow water to seep through and damage the wall or structural form behind it, which can lead to bigger (and more expensive) problems.
Fortunately, it’s a fairly easy fix.
Tools you’ll need
- Sharp stanley knife
- Caulking gun
- Silicone
- Cloth
- Spray bottle filled with water
- Rubber silicone guide or a paddle pop stick
How to fix damaged silicon
- Ensure the area is clean.
- Cut out the old, damaged silicone with the stanley knife, being careful not to damage the surface below it.
- Clean the area.
- Make sure it’s completely dry before you proceed.
- Cut the top off the silicone tube and insert it into the caulking gun (some stores sell DIY-friendly silicone squeeze packs that don’t require a caulking gun).
- Slowly and carefully apply new, even bead to the affected area.
- Lightly spray the area with water.
- Smooth the silicone with a rubber silicone guide, paddle pop stick or your finger.
- Allow to dry completely.
- Repeat the process if necessary.
3. A lifted skirting board
Ross Veitch says: In most cases, fixing a lifted or damaged skirting board can be quite straightforward. Most skirting boards are nailed through plasterboard into the timber wall frame behind them, so it’s simply a case of nailing them back in. Alternatively, they can be fixed to masonry walls or steel-framed walls with a construction adhesive (glue), which means glueing in a new section or glueing the existing section down.
It gets trickier with older houses, where the skirting boards are often fixed to the wall with timber plugs in the mortar joints. This can be a tricky job if you don’t have the right tools or experience.
The first step is to inspect the lifted or damaged board and the wall type behind it. Ask yourself:
Ross Veitch says: In most cases, fixing a lifted or damaged skirting board can be quite straightforward. Most skirting boards are nailed through plasterboard into the timber wall frame behind them, so it’s simply a case of nailing them back in. Alternatively, they can be fixed to masonry walls or steel-framed walls with a construction adhesive (glue), which means glueing in a new section or glueing the existing section down.
It gets trickier with older houses, where the skirting boards are often fixed to the wall with timber plugs in the mortar joints. This can be a tricky job if you don’t have the right tools or experience.
The first step is to inspect the lifted or damaged board and the wall type behind it. Ask yourself:
- Is the skirting board damaged beyond repair or is it still usable? If it’s still in good condition, you can nail or glue it back down. If it’s damaged beyond repair, you’ll need to replace it.
- Is the skirting board timber or MDF and what is its profile? If you’re replacing the skirting board, you’ll want to purchase the same material and profile for a seamless look.
- What is the wall made from? Fixing new skirtings to masonry walls, particularly in older houses, can be hard as the timber plugs in the mortar joints may be beyond repair and need replacing too.
- Why has the skirting board come away? A lifted skirting board can be a sign of unusual movement in the structure of your house, in which case you’ll want to call in a professional to investigate.
Tools you’ll need
To nail a skirting board back into place or install a new one onto a timber-framed wall you’ll require:
If you need to fix or replace a damaged skirting board in an area with a tiled floor that leads right up to it, it’s all too easy to damage the surrounding tile if you don’t have the right tools and experience. This is a job left to a professional.
To nail a skirting board back into place or install a new one onto a timber-framed wall you’ll require:
- Hammer
- Nail punch
- 50mm x 2mm bullet-head nails
- A finishing nail gun (optional)
- Wood filler
- Safety glasses
- Hearing protection if you’re using a finishing nail gun
- A new section of skirting board if you’re going to replace it
- Tube of liquid nails
If you need to fix or replace a damaged skirting board in an area with a tiled floor that leads right up to it, it’s all too easy to damage the surrounding tile if you don’t have the right tools and experience. This is a job left to a professional.
How to repair or replace a lifted skirting board
- Remove any old nails from the skirting board and the wall.
- Ensure there’s no debris, such as crumbled plaster, on the floor, wall or the back of the skirting board (if you’re re-using the original one). Any debris can prevent the skirting board from sitting flush with the wall.
- Position the piece of skirting board so it aligns correctly with any adjoining pieces, typically at a corner junction.
- To ensure you get a tight joint at corners, be sure to use a scribe joint (where the two connecting ends of the skirting are sawn at a 45-degree-angle so they slot neatly together into the corner).
- Determine the locations of your wall studs or bottom plates then nail the board in. Punch all nail heads so they’re just below the surface of the board.
- Fill the nail holes with wood filler.
- Lightly sand the skirting board.
- Apply a coat of paint for a seamless finish.
- Don’t rush, particularly if you are removing old skirting. It’s easy to dent the plaster and give yourself another repair job.
- If you’re fitting a new skirting, don’t try to force the boards if they have been cut too long. Check your measurements and adjust the length accordingly.
4. Stubborn grime on tile grout
Vanessa Dall Amico and Grace Chavez, co-founders of cleaning firm Carefully Done, say: Dingy, black grout lines between tiles are caused by mould – they’re not only unhygienic but really bring down the look of your bathroom.
There’s a few different ways to remove it, including bleach and non-toxic alternatives such as vinegar and tea-tree oil mixes.
Whatever cleaning solution you choose, be sure to test it out in a hidden spot first to ensure you won’t damage the tiles.
Vanessa Dall Amico and Grace Chavez, co-founders of cleaning firm Carefully Done, say: Dingy, black grout lines between tiles are caused by mould – they’re not only unhygienic but really bring down the look of your bathroom.
There’s a few different ways to remove it, including bleach and non-toxic alternatives such as vinegar and tea-tree oil mixes.
Whatever cleaning solution you choose, be sure to test it out in a hidden spot first to ensure you won’t damage the tiles.
Tools you’ll need
- Diluted bleach (one part bleach and 10 parts water).
- A vinegar and bicarbonate of soda mix (2 tsp bicarbonate of soda mixed with a little white vinegar to make a paste) or a vinegar-tea tree oil mix (25ml tea tree oil and 500ml water mixed in a spray bottle. For a smaller amount, combine 1 tablespoon tea tree oil with one cup of water, mixed in a spray bottle).
- Spray bottle
- Old toothbrush
- Two clean cloths
- Never clean the mould with a dry sponge or brush as it can fly into new areas.
How to remove stubborn grime
- Apply a small amount of diluted bleach or the paste mix onto the dirty grout or spray on the tea tree oil mix using a spray bottle.
- Let it sit for 15-20 minutes.
- Scrub it in with the toothbrush.
- Wipe it off with a wet cloth.
- Dry it with the other cloth.
5. A toilet that won’t flush
Chris Jarvis, a plumber and director at Chris Jarvis Bathrooms, says: There are three common reasons a toilet will stop flushing. They are:
Chris Jarvis, a plumber and director at Chris Jarvis Bathrooms, says: There are three common reasons a toilet will stop flushing. They are:
- A broken flush lever.
- A worn rubber seal on the flush valve.
- The cistern won’t refill.
- A blockage.
Equipment you’ll need
How to repair a broken flush lever
If you can’t isolate the water supply from the toilet because the mini stop cock won’t shut off or the cistern is cracked or damaged.
- Rubber gloves.
- An adjustable wrench.
How to repair a broken flush lever
- Unhook the two broken parts of the lever and remove them from the toilet. Take the parts to your local hardware store to ensure the replacement flush lever is a good match.
- Put in the new flush lever by turning the new hook 90 degrees to the ball valve and hooking it through the loop on the flush valve; then turn it the opposite way and attach the flush handle or button.
- Isolate the water supply by turning off the mini stop cock at the bottom of the toilet (it normally comes out of the wall).
- Depending on the age and style of the ball, undo the ball valve nut with an adjustable spanner and remove any built-up grime from it; then replace with a new washer and rubber seal.
- Refit the valve, turn the water back on and refill the cistern, making sure the water level stops at the mark on the inside of the cistern wall.
If you can’t isolate the water supply from the toilet because the mini stop cock won’t shut off or the cistern is cracked or damaged.
How to fix a cistern that won’t refill
How to clear a blocked toilet
Tools you’ll need
- Check the incoming water supply.
- Clean the ball valve inlet pipe, which may be blocked with sediment or rust.
How to clear a blocked toilet
Tools you’ll need
- Rubber gloves
- A plunger
- If you can see what’s causing the blockage (such as a child’s toy) put on gloves and manually remove it from the toilet bowl.
- If the water level in the bowl is higher than normal, plunge the bowl several times with
an up-and-down motion. - If plunging doesn’t work and the water build-up has been gradual, the blockage could be caused by tree roots penetrating the pipes and you’ll need to call a plumber.
Your turn
What niggly problem have you been putting off? Tell us in the Comments below. And don’t forget to save your favourite images, like this story and join the conversation.
More
Looking for more practical advice? Check out the first lot of advice in Part 1 of this series.
What niggly problem have you been putting off? Tell us in the Comments below. And don’t forget to save your favourite images, like this story and join the conversation.
More
Looking for more practical advice? Check out the first lot of advice in Part 1 of this series.
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Great tips! One question what is the the amount of vinegar to use in the Vinegar & Ti Tree cleaning mix?
Very practical article. Re using spray bottles of solution to fix the mould on tile grout on walls, the solution tends to run down the wall and be ineffective. A much better fix is to buy a bottle of bleach gel that is used in toilets. Put it on the area affected area and place a layer of paper towel over it. The paper towel stops the gel running away and holds it in place, enough for it to work really well. The mould easily came off for me that way.
Very helpful. Thanks. ❤️