Exterior Ideas
Pete Veilleux, East Bay Wilds SaveEmail Parry’s Phacelia (Phacelia parryi) Native to Arizona and California Native range: Coast, desert, inland and mountain Where it will grow: Hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 7 to 10) Whimsical blue-violet to purple flowers make this phacelia a blue lover’s delight. Sometimes P. parryi has an arrangement of five white spots or a pale coloration in the throat. Growing to only 1 foot to 2 feet tall and wide, this phacelia is an alluring accent in a rock garden.
Wild Canterbury Bells (Phacelia minor) Native to California Native range: Coast, desert and mountains Where it will grow: Hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 7 to 10) Similar to P. campanularia, this phacelia’s bell-shaped blue to purple flowers uncoil in a slow-motion flourish. P. minor grows to 8 to 24 inches tall and 1 foot to 2 feet wide. As a desert annual, it puts on a great show in nearly any sunny, well-drained location, such as a rock garden, container or dry border.
Largeflower Phacelia (Phacelia grandiflora) Native to California Native range: Coast, inland; grows to higher elevations (5,000 to 7,500 feet) Where it will grow: Hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 5 to 10) Although from higher elevations, P. grandiflora is nearly effortless to grow in home gardens. Exuberant grape-scented flowers bloom best in soil with a bit of compost. P. grandiflora will grow up to 3 feet tall and 16 to 36 inches wide. Use it in a mixed border or massed with plants of similar size.
Desert Canterbury Bells (Phacelia campanularia) Native to Arizona and California Native range: Coast, desert and inland Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 3 to 10) P. campanularia is a desert wildflower that thrives in gardens and is one of my all-time favorites. Its brilliant blue flowers are stunning, whether the plant is massed or intermixed with other plants. Provide good drainage, and this annual will perform well. Expect P. campanularia to grow 1 foot to 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide.
Whether planted in small groups or large masses, P. campanularia, P. minor and P. parryi have blooms in deep blues and purples. They are breathtaking combined with plants with orange or yellow flowers that bloom at the same time and have the same cultural needs, like California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) and tidy tips (Layia platyglossa). P. grandiflora lends a touch of royalty with its lavender-colored, open bell-shaped flowers and charming scent of grape candy. And P. tanacetifolia produces some of the highest-quality food for pollinators while contributing textural caterpillar-like fiddleheads to the spring ecstasy. More on the merits of each species follows. Shown: P. Minor Photo by Laura Camp
SaveEmail Distinguishing traits. Annuals with coiled racemes bloom in lovely shades of blue to purple in spring. They are easy to cultivate in gardens. How to use it. The shorter species work well in rock gardens. All species can be massed or used in dry mixed beds. Wildlife value. All phacelia species offer both nectar and pollen, making them highly attractive to native bees, honeybees and other pollinators. Phacelias are also a great nectar source for butterflies and a great seed source for birds. Planting notes. All of these annual species reseed. Collect the seeds once they are mature, or let the seeds naturally self-sow. Fall is the ideal time for sowing seeds or putting in plants. In temperate regions plants can tolerate being planted in winter to early spring. Shown: P. campanularia Photo by Patrick Standish
Phacelias start their springtime display by uncoiling their curved racemes with flowers of blue, mauve, purple or lavender. As their eye-catching, bell-shaped flowers open, these annuals call pollinators for a yummy meal of nectar and pollen. The high nutritive value of phacelias for pollinators guarantees that these annuals are coveted by both beekeepers and wildlife gardeners. There are many sun-loving species of phacelias — including both annuals and perennials; the five annuals profiled here are easy to grow and are available from seed suppliers and nurseries. Caution: The hairs on the stems and leaves may produce dermatitis in those who are sensitive. Wear long sleeves and gloves when working near phacelias. Landscape by Pete Veilleux, East Bay Wilds Pete Veilleux, East Bay Wilds SaveEmail Botanical name: Phacelia spp Common name: Phacelia Origin: All are native to California; some species are also native to other states. Where it will grow: Hardiness varies by species (USDA zones 3 to 10; find your zone)
Anemone De Caen ‘Mr Fokker’ (Anemone coronaria) Anemones are also known as windflowers. ‘Mr Fokker’ is “the most intense color blue you will probably find,” says Langeveld. When to plant it depends on your zone. If you live in zones 7 to 10, plant A. coronaria in the fall; if you live in zones 3 to 6, plant it in the spring, after the ground has thawed. This bulb will not naturalize. Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 3 to 10; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun Height: 12 to 18 inches Bloom time: Midspring Planting tips: Soak the bulbs in room-temperature water for up to 12 hours prior to planting. Plant 2 to 3 inches deep.
Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa forbesii) Though they look delicate, this plant's small, star-shaped flowers can be found blooming cheerfully through the snow, hence the common name. It is one of the easiest bulbs to grow. Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 3 to 9; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun Height: 4 to 8 inches Bloom time: Late winter or early spring Planting tips: Plant 3 inches deep. It's good under shrubs or in a rock garden, or planted by the hundreds in a lawn.
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari spp) The flowers of grape hyacinths look like, well, little clumps of grapes waving on bright green stems. The plants are extremely easy to grow, and the flowers come in shades from white to the deepest cobalt blue. Grape hyacinths are great in containers, along borders and in lawns. “One of the longest-blooming spring flowers,” Langeveld says. When conditions are right, the bulbs will spread. Where it will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 4 to 8; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun Height: 8 inches Bloom time: Midspring Planting tips: Plant 4 inches deep. Can be planted in clay soil. When clumps get too dense, you can dig them up and divide them in autumn or after they’ve gone dormant in early summer. Don’t be surprised to see new foliage (but no flowers) appear in fall.
Where bluebells will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 4 to 9; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Height: English, 8 to 16 inches; Spanish, 16 inches Bloom time: Mid- to late spring Planting tips: Plant 3 inches deep. Bluebells self-seed. Traditional Landscape by Greenhaven Landscapes Inc
Taller than other blue-flowering spring bulbs, bluebells look like a looser, wilder version of hyacinths. There are English bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta), shown here, and Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica), below. How to tell them apart? H. hispanica is unscented, with upright flowers. H. non-scripta’s flowers are scented, and the tops of the flowers bend over.
Not the tall, stately irises that bloom in June, these tiny little jewels pop their heads out when it’s still too cold for the taller irises. The flowers are fragrant. Their one flaw is that they give their best show the first year, then can take a few years to rebloom. For a consistent show, plant new bulbs every fall. Where it will grow: Hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 5 to 8; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Height: 4 to 6 inches Bloom time: Late winter or early spring Planting tips: Plant 3 to 4 inches deep; needs dry soil in summer.
This cheery little plant is attractive to butterflies but not to deer, rabbits or rodents. Squill is great in a lawn, and under trees before they leaf out. It spreads by seeds, so it naturalizes easily, too easily in some places. Squill is considered invasive in some areas, so check with your local extension service or native plant conservancy before planting it. Where it will grow: Hardy to -50 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 2 to 8; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Height: 8 inches Bloom time: Early spring Planting tips: Plant 3 to 4 inches deep. Use about 20 bulbs per square foot. Landscape by Susan Teare, Professional Photographer
In much of the U.S., from now until the ground freezes, it’s time to plant spring-flowering bulbs. Tulips and daffodils are the most popular. Between the two the flowers cover the color spectrum from pure white to purple-black. They leave one big color-wheel gap, however: There are no blue tulips or daffodils. Fortunately, nature compensates with a number of other flowering spring bulbs in shades of azure, cobalt, indigo and sky blue. Paired with daffodils, or growing among the bright green of new grass, blue flowers add brilliance to the garden as few other plants can. Most blue-flowering spring bulbs are short — a foot tall or shorter. Since the color blue recedes in human vision, they can disappear in the landscape. The solution is to plant them in large groups, a few dozen at the very least. Scatter them among taller bulbs, tuck them under deciduous trees and plant lots and lots of them in a lawn. With one exception, all are good for naturalizing. The secret to successful bulb growing? “Plant deep, two to three times the height of the bulb,” says Hans Langeveld, co-owner of Longfield Gardens, a mail-order bulb nursery in Lakewood, New Jersey. “Planting deeply protects the bu...
Cavity-nesting bees and solitary wasps use the stems as nesting sites. The large, square stems are hollow between the nodes and can be bundled together (10 inches in length, 4-inch-diameter bundles) and hung in a sunny location that receives morning sun. Choose stems from eye level; the lower stems are often too big in diameter. Other pollinators visit the water held in the clasping leaves. Look for both social and solitary wasps drinking water from this shallow reservoir. Birds also regularly visit for water, and later for seeds. Small birds use the bushy, dense foliage for cover and occasional nesting sites. Shown: Eastern tiger swallowtail, black morph (Papilio glaucus)
Pollinator notes. The open, flat composite flowers attract all types of insect pollinators, including bees, butterflies and moths. The outer ray florets are fertile and produce a ring of seeds; the inner disk florets are sterile. The flowers are protandrous, with the ray florets producing pollen first; pollen is picked up by hairs on the style as it elongates, presenting the pollen to pollinators. Shown: Green sweat bee (Agapostemon sp)
Planting notes. Allow ample spacing (space the plants at least 2½ feet on center). Cup plant will reseed in most sites where it is planted. If this is a concern, dig seedlings out in the spring from unwanted areas. The fibrous-rooted seedlings are easy to dig up and transplant. If you want to prevent reseeding by removing the flower heads, remove the seeds and put them out for the birds. The sunflower-size seeds are an extremely important food source for birds, including gold finches and sparrows.
Distinguishing traits. Cup plant features an upright, sturdy form with dark green leaves and showy, bright yellow flowers. The extremely large leaves clasp a square flower stalk, creating a reservoir that holds water after a rainfall. The flowers attract many types of pollinators, including bees and butterflies. The seeds are sought after by birds. How to use it. Cup plant can get enormous, especially in soil rich with organic matter. It is not a suitable plant for a small garden or a space where it could overpower smaller, more delicate perennials. Therefore, use cup plant in large perennial borders as a backdrop, as a central focal point in a circular bed or as an herbaceous hedge. Shown: Cup plant leaves holding water
Cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum) is not for the faint of heart, especially gardeners who usually shy away from large plants. But use its size to your advantage. What perennial native plant grows to a height of 10 feet or more in as little as two months? Plant this giant next to your deck for privacy from your neighbors, and enjoy watching the pollinators stop by for nectar and pollen; birds and other insects will come for the water that is held in the large, clasping leaves. This native plant can also be planted as an herbaceous hedge. Screen unsightly garden features, try it in a large perennial garden as a backdrop or make a statement and site it in the middle of a large, circular bed. Moist sites, such as drainage ditches, pond edges or large rain gardens are other suitable locations for cup plant. by Holm Design & Consulting LLC Holm Design & Consulting LLC SaveEmail Botanical name: Silphium perfoliatum Common name: Cup plant Origin: Native to eastern North America, from North Dakota south to Oklahoma and east to Georgia in the south and Maine in the north; also occurs in Canada, in Ontario and Quebec Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 3b to 8b; ...
Planting notes. Encelia is easy to grow and adapts to many garden conditions. Simply give it well-drained soil, space for its 4- to 6-foot-wide exhibition of flowers, and — once it’s established — a drink of water at least once a month to keep it green or twice a month to increase flowering for yourself and the pollinators. Without supplemental water, Encelia will go dormant in summer and lose its leaves. Deadheading Encelia as often as every two weeks will prolong the bloom and keep the plant looking its best. I rarely deadhead mine, preferring to give it a light haircut once during its summer downtime. It continues to flower, and the summer haircut improves its shape. Hard pruning reduces Encelia’s tendency to become rangy and floppy. I prune Encelia back to 1 foot tall every year after the risk of frost has passed. By pruning later in the season, I’m protecting the lower branches and roots from cold damage. If there is little or no risk of temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit, prune Encelia hard in the winter for an early rejuvenation in the spring.
How to use it. Encelia is a great selection for a colorful mixed border or perennial bed. Plant it with other California natives, like salvia, ceanothus, mimulus and rhus. I particularly love contrasting yellows with blues or purples for an electric color combination. Encelia is also helpful for erosion control on steep banks. And its informal beauty makes it a great design plant for low-water gardens.
Wildlife value. According to the new book California Bees & Blooms, A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists, Encelia deserves more attention for bee-habitat gardens. Its long, profuse blooming makes it a great native plant for native bees, butterflies, honeybees and other pollinators. Birds also find Encelia’s attributes appealing. Depending on the species of bird, they relish the seeds, the well-fed insects or both. In my home garden, I call Encelia “the ladybug hotel” for its allure to lady beetles. There have been as many as five species of ladybugs on my one Encelia plant in the spring. I’ve never seen a serious outbreak of aphids, so the ladybugs must be handling the problem before I’m aware of it. I’m happy to provide these beneficial ladies with a comfy hotel in trade for their hard work.
Distinguishing traits. This 3-foot-tall, 5-foot-wide subshrub is a profuse bloomer with large daisy-like flowers in spring and again in fall. An easy subshrub to grow, Encelia is a pollinator magnet — drawing in native bees, butterflies and other pollinators — making it an exceptional habitat plant. Cutting it back hard every year produces a better form and manages Encelia’s tendency to be leggy. Regular deadheading keeps the blooms coming.
Water requirement: Drought-tolerant to moderate water Light requirement: Full sun Soil: Adaptable; prefers well-drained soil Mature size: 3 to 4 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Tolerates seaside conditions, alkaline soil and clay; slope stabilizer Seasonal interest: 4-inch cheerful daisy-like flowers in spring and fall When to plant: Late fall is ideal, winter works well, spring is acceptable and summer planting can be challenging to all but the most experienced gardener.
Califonia brittlebush (Encelia californica) is a must for low-water habitat gardens. This vigorous and dependable subshrub shows off its exuberant mass of large daisy-like flowers in spring and fall. Its long, bountiful bloom periods, combined with its food offerings of both pollen and nectar, make Encelia highly attractive to native bees and other pollinators. Pollinating insects are then food for birds and other critters. Landscape Encelia californica SaveEmail Botanical name: Encelia californica Common names: California brittlebush, coast sunflower, California sunflower Origin: From Santa Barbara County, California, south to northwestern Baja California Natural habitat: Coastal scrub, below 1,600 feet Where it will grow: Hardy to 35 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 10b to 11; find your zone); will recover from 27 degrees Fahrenheit but will freeze to the ground and die at about 20 degrees r
Pollinators are unable to fly if their body temperature gets too cold. Fortunately, Maximilian sunflower’s flowers track the sun throughout the day, providing pollinators with a flat landing platform and a warm place in which to forage. This microclimate helps keep pollinators warm, on the move and pollinating the next Maximilian sunflower nearby. This plant also provides late-season food for beneficial insects (insects that prey on problem populations of insects). Shown here are two beneficial insects: a soldier beetle (Chauliognathus sp) and a minute pirate bug (Orius sp), who are both predators of aphids and other soft-bodied insects.
Pollinator notes. Maximilian sunflower, like all plants in the Helianthus genus, is an important source of nectar and pollen for pollinators. The bright yellow composite flowers are composed of outer yellow ray florets and inner yellow disk florets. The flower color, combined with the open flower form and shallow disk florets in the center, offer nectar and pollen to all visiting pollinators regardless of their physical size or tongue length. Survival for insect pollinators is tenuous in the fall as temperatures drop and the risk of frost increases. Shown: Eastern bumblebee (Bombus impatiens)
Planting notes. In droughty situations, Maximilian sunflower will not reach a height of 10 feet — 5 feet is more typical. The roots are fibrous and often thick and somewhat woody, combined with rhizomes. The plants spread outward by the rhizomes, forming large clusters over time. In winter the tall flower stalks stick out above the snow, providing seeds for birds and small mammals. The seeds are an important source of protein for wildlife, especially in areas with significant snowfall. Shown: Monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus)
How to use it. Maximilian sunflower historically occurs in tallgrass prairies. It therefore works very well combined with tall prairie grasses, such as Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans), big bluestem (Andropogon gerardi) and switchgrass (Panicum virgatum). Due to its size, it’s best to use this native perennial in informal or naturalized landscapes where fall color is needed. It also works well as a backdrop in a perennial border and can be used as an herbaceous hedge. Plant tall plants next to Maximilian sunflower to prevent its tall flower stalks from flopping over.
Soil requirement: Mesic to dry, sandy-loam to clay-loam soil Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 3 to 10 feet tall and 3 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Tolerates most soil types, including limestone-rich soil; avoid planting in heavy, wet clay; very versatile as long as the plants are sited in full sun Seasonal interest: Large, bright yellow flowers in late summer and fall from August to October When to plant: Spring
Praries really begin to shine in the fall as the native grasses turn copper, bronze or gold. The tall flower stalks of Maximilian sunflower (Helianthus maximiliani) rise above this golden grass palette, unveiling clusters of large yellow flowers. Early Europeans traveling by horse through the Midwest’s tallgrass prairies probably had the flowers of Maximilian sunflower looking back at them — abuzz with pollinators and beneficial insects. This late-blooming sunflower, like New England aster, fills an important niche in the fall, providing forage for both pollinators and beneficial insects. Plant this tall sunflower in informal prairie plantings, butterfly or pollinator gardens, or as a backdrop in large traditional perennial borders. by Holm Design & Consulting LLC Holm Design & Consulting LLC SaveEmail Botanical name: Helianthus maximiliani Common name: Maximilian’s sunflower Origin: Native to all of North America except Alaska, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Louisiana, Georgia, Florida, Vermont and New Hampshire in the U.S.; in Canada it does not occur in Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or the Canadian territories Where it will grow: Hardy to -45 ...
Debbie Ballentine SaveEmail The six basic elements of gardening for native bees are simple. The pleasures and rewards are enormous. Now go out and make your own little habitat and watch the daffy fanfare of pollinators as they make their homes, provide for their young, feed on your flowers and put on a great show. Resources on native bees: The UC Berkeley Urban Bee Lab — a wealth of information on gardening for California native bees California Bees and Blooms: A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists, by Gordon W. Frankie, Robbin W. Thorp, Rollin E. Coville and Barbara Ertte Attracting Native Pollinators: Protecting North America’s Bees and Butterflies, by the Xerces Society Field Guide to the Common Bees of California, by Gretchen LeBuhn Pollinator-Friendly Parks: How to Enhance Parks, Gardens, and Other Greenspaces for Native Pollinator Insects, by Matthew Shepherd, Mace Vaughan and Scott Hoffman Black The USDA website’s article “Honey Bees and Colony Collapse Disorder” provides the latest information about the honey bee crisis.
6. No “cides.” Pesticides, herbicides and other “cides” are toxic to wildlife in general and particularly to insects. What pesticide companies don’t want you to know is that the good bugs know how to find the bad bugs. Between the distress signals that the plant sends out and the chemical signature of the bad bugs’ poop, the advertisement clearly says, “Dinner’s here!” This allows the good bugs to target and destroy bad bugs relatively quickly. So be patient. Accept some nibbles on plants. Who knows, it might just be a leafcutter bee that took a bit of your western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) to soften its nest. The use of pesticides disrupts the natural cycle. I’ve found that if I leave the bad bugs, then the good bugs will come. If the bad bugs get completely out of control and the health of a plant is at risk, a water sprayer or homemade nontoxic concoction can reduce their population. In six years of native plant gardening, I’ve needed to do thisonly for seasonal outbreaks of lace bugs on a Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia).
5. Cover and places to raise young. Whether simple or complex, homemade or store bought, bee hotels — also called bee nests and bee boxes — like the one shown here offer additional space where female bees can lay their eggs. Unlike European honeybees, which live in groups inside hives, most native bees live alone in the ground. Ground-nesting native bees dig holes in the ground or use vacated holes for their nests. Other bee species use plant material and holes in wood. Ground-nesting bees don’t like to wade through layers of mulch. Be sure to leave sunny areas with bare dirt in your garden for bees to make their homes in.
4. Full sun. Insects are cold-blooded, so they need the warmth of the sun to move around. Like our morning coffee, a sunny garden gives insects the boost they need to wake up and get going for the day.
Along with plants in the aster family, many native species of buckwheat (Eriogonum spp), sage (like Cleveland sage, Salvia clevelandii, shown), California lilac (Ceanothus spp) and manzanita (Arctostaphylos spp) are prized by native bees in California. The U.C. Berkeley Urban Bee Lab website has a list of the best bee plants for California, including native and nonnative plant species, organized by spring and summer. Gordon Frankie of UC Berkeley published an exciting new book this month, California Bees and Blooms: A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists, which describes in detail the plants that California native bees find most irresistible. No matter where you live: How to Find the Right Native Plants for Your Yard Traditional Landscape by Erin Lau Landscape Design- Seattle Erin Lau Landscape Design- Seattle SaveEmail 3. Water. All creatures need water. There are many options for offering water to insects. Something as simple as a birdbath provides enough water for birds and insects alike. Ponds and recirculating fountains can be a lovely focal point in a garden design as well as provide habitat. Be sure to follow your local water company’s guidelines for water usage. All wate...
2. Native plants for native bees. The UC Berkeley Urban Bee Lab has been studying native bees and their food choices over the past decade. Through The Urban California Native Bee Survey, the researchers discovered that local native bees prefer local native plants over nonnative ones four to one. This isn’t surprising when you think about the millennia that insects and plants have been evolving together. Native bees need both nectar (carbohydrates) and pollen (protein) to feed themselves and their young. Some plants provide one or the other, while plants in the aster family, such as Pacific aster (Symphyotrichum chilense), provide both pollen and nectar. In my opinion, the aster family is the single most important family of plants for insects, not only for the one-two punch of pollen and nectar but also because the central “disk” of each flower is actually many flowers. Here you can see the many flowers on the central disk of a seaside daisy (Erigeron glaucus). This disk provides pollinators with a high concentration of food on a single landing pad.
Many of our home gardens can’t have that much diversity, but you’d be surprised how many pollinators you can support in a small space. Do what you can with the space you have. This new garden has been designed so these Clarkia and poppy (Eschscholzia californica) annuals will be replaced by flowering perennials as the year progresses. As the garden matures, some of the annuals and perennials will be replaced by flowering trees and shrubs.
Features of a Native Bee Habitat 1. Diversity with blocks of color. This large block of orange California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) with another large block of deep blue ceanothus will attract native bees better than a few of each plant placed here and there. The Xerces Society promotes planting a diversity of flowering plants for pollinators in large blocks of color. Like a flashing neon light, diverse plants in blocks point all the pollinators to the party. The Xerces Society says to provide: Several different plant species flowering at the same time A combination of flowering annuals and perennials Flowers of different sizes, shapes and colors Blocks of color: patches of about 3½ feet by 3½ feet of a single plant species and flower color Year-round food: flowering plants in all growing seasons
Most people are aware of the honeybee crisis, but honeybees aren’t the only ones in trouble. Other pollinators are also in decline. Since becoming aware of the honeybee crisis, researchers have put more emphasis into studying all pollinators. They have learned that native bees not only pollinate crops alongside honeybees, but also improve the efficiency of honeybee pollination. And some native bee species are even more efficient at pollinating than honeybees. Nurturing a garden habitat for native bees gives them a place in which to live, eat and raise their young. Creating a habitat for bees is creating a wildlife habitat for all, because it attracts other wildlife, such as butterflies, birds, hummingbirds and other insects. See how and why you should design your garden for native bees below. by Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens SaveEmail Why should I care about pollinators? Pollinators provide important services to us and the ecosystem. Bees, birds and bats pollinate more than a third of our crops. From our morning coffee and evening wine to our lunchtime pear and sandwich mustard, the foods on our table owe their existence to pollinators. Most pol...
Look for many types of wild bees, honeybees, flies, beetles, butterflies and day-flying moths visiting the flowers.
Pollinator notes. New England aster is a staple for pollinators in fall, when few other plants provide nectar and pollen. Migrating butterflies, such as monarchs, depend on this valuable nectar source as they prepare for their southward journey in the fall. The open, flat flowers provide an easy platform for perching on while gathering nectar — a floral feature preferred by butterflies. The shallow disk florets in the center of the flower allow pollinators access to nectar whether they have a short or long tongue.
Planting notes. In droughty situations, the lower foliage can brown out in midsummer. Gardeners often plant a perennial in front of the aster to hide this potentially unsightly feature. If this is a recurring problem, consider transplanting your plants to a moister site. Gardeners who do not like the plant’s height can cut back the flower stalks in midsummer (July) to keep the plant more compact. In rich, loam or clay-loam soils, New England aster has the potential to reseed prolifically. If this is a concern, you can cut off and bag the flower heads to reduce seed dispersal. Normally it is nice to leave seeds for wildlife to consume, but the seeds on this aster are rarely sought after by birds or other wildlife. Shown: Common buckeye butterfly (Junonia coenia) on New England aster
How to use it. New England aster performs best in moist sites, including rain gardens, ditches, pond or wetland edges, or other low-lying sites where water collects after a rain fall. Drier sites are tolerated if the soil has a higher clay content. This plant’s preference for moist sites is more apparent in the upper Midwest. As one travels eastward around the southern Great Lakes area, New England aster commonly grows alongside Canada goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) in old, dry fields. New England aster does well in traditional perennial borders when sited near the back of the bed to accommodate its tall stature.
Soil requirement: Mesic to moist, sandy-loam to clay-loam soil Light requirement: Full to partial sun Mature size: 2 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Tolerates most soil types except dry, well-drained sites Seasonal interest: Light pink to deep purple flowers from August to October When to plant: Spring or late fall Distinguishing traits. New England aster grows quietly in the background throughout the summer, then begins to shine as other perennials look worn out and tattered from the growing season; with tightly clustered, clasping leaves, upright flower stalks and clusters of purple flowers, this native perennial is a star of the fall garden.
New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) is one of the showiest North American native plants in the fall garden. Vibrant purple petals and contrasting yellow to orange centers are visually attractive to both gardeners and pollinators. With pollinators needing a continuous supply of pollen and nectar throughout the growing season, New England aster fills an important niche in late September and October, as few other plants flower this late in the season. Use it in informal prairie plantings, butterfly or pollinator gardens, rain gardens or traditional perennial borders, or at pond edges, where fall color is needed. Landscape by Holm Design & Consulting LLC Holm Design & Consulting LLC SaveEmail Botanical name: Symphyotrichum novae-angliae (formerly Aster novae-angliae) Common name: New England aster Origin: Native to all of North America except Alaska, Idaho, Nevada, Arizona, Texas, Louisiana and Florida in the U.S.; in Canada it does not occur in Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island, Alberta, Saskatchewan or the Canadian territories Where it will grow: Hardy to -45 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 2b to 8b; find your zone) Typical plant communities: Prairies, meadows, savann...
10. Liriope muscari Also known as lilyturf, Liriope forms dense, grassy clumps that are covered in spiky purple-blue flowers in summer and fall. Low in maintenance, apart from the need to keep snails at bay, frost-hardy Liriope is perfect for areas of dry shade under trees and shrubs. It also grows well in full sun and is often used as an edging plant. Large clumps can be divided in autumn after flowering to create new plants. Popular cultivars include ‘Royal Purple’, ‘Variegata’ and ‘Big Blue’.
9. Bergenia Large paddle- or oval-shaped leathery leaves make versatile bergenia an ideal ground cover for cold-climate gardens with a subtropical theme, while its flowers, in shades of pink or white, are perfect for cottage gardens and perennial borders. The leaves of some varieties have a reddish-brown tinge during the winter. This plant loves a partially shady position, with moist, well-drained soil, but can tolerate sun if the roots are cool. It forms large clumps that can be broken up to form new plants. Popular cultivars include ‘Red Beauty’, ‘Bressingham Ruby’ and ‘Bressingham White’.
8. Creeping Thyme (Thymus praecox) This low-growing form of the common herb can spread over large areas. It is used as a ground cover or a substitute lawn in many gardens. Its leaves are tiny and aromatic, and its flowers are normally purple, mauve or white in summer. The plant is frost hardy, preferring moist, well-drained soil and a sunny position. There are many varieties of creeping thyme with different-colored leaves and width of spread, so choose one that suits the space you have available.
7. Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina) Grown for its carpet of fuzzy silver foliage, lamb’s ear is used extensively in gardens from cottage to contemporary. In spring and summer, it produces pretty pink or purple flowers, though some cultivars, such as ‘Silver Carpet’, are nonflowering. Lamb’s ear copes well with poor soil as long as it is well drained, and loves the sun, although it will tolerate shade. Divide plants every two to four years to prevent the centers of the clumps from browning.
6. Spanish Shawl (Heterocentron elegans) The hot-pink blooms of Spanish shawl make it a popular ground cover in frost-free areas. The plant forms a low, dense carpet and has an indefinite spread, sometimes spreading too vigorously in warmer gardens. Preferred conditions are well-drained soil in either full sun or partial shade. Spanish shawl is often used in rock gardens and hanging baskets.
5. Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) Usually grown as a climber, versatile star jasmine is now being grown as a ground cover and clipped shrub. Its popularity is due to a number of factors, including its stunning scented white flowers, attractive dark green foliage that looks good all year and ability to tolerate sun, shade and some frost. Planted in this garden is a variegated form of star jasmine (T. jasminoides ‘Tricolour’), which has been bred to grow only as a ground cover. It has lovely green, cream and pink leaves and grows to about 3 feet wide and 16 inches tall. The downside is that it does not produce as many (if any) flowers as does the species form of star jasmine.
Pod Garden Design & Landscape SaveEmail 4. Kidney Weed (Dichondra repens) This evergreen spreading perennial has shiny green heart-shaped leaves and inconspicuous green flowers, and is often used as a substitute lawn in low-traffic areas of the garden. It will grow in full sun or partial shade as long as it has plenty of moisture. When conditions are ideal, it will grow quite quickly.
3. Low-Growing Succulents For hot, sunny, bare areas in the garden, why not plant a selection of mat-forming succulents, like the ones in this garden? They look ideal planted with taller showcase plants, such as dracaena, yucca and aloe. Most have attractive foliage and are very low maintenance, needing little water, pruning or feeding. Succulents that make good ground covers include low-growing varieties of Senecio serpens, which has stunning blue leaves; kalanchoe; Sempervivum; sedum; and Echeveria.
2. Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) Mondo grass is a strappy-leaved evergreen clump-forming perennial that is tolerant of sun and shade, as well as drought. Dwarf mondo grass (O. japonicus ‘Nana’) grows to about 1 foot in height and will spread slowly to cover large areas. To speed up the process, break up clumps every couple of years. Black mondo grass (O. planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’) has a similar form but prefers full sun.
Leaving your soil uncovered in the garden is a bit like walking around in the hot sun with no hat — you’re asking for trouble. Bare soil is a magnet for weeds, their seeds blown into your garden by the wind or dropped by birds. Topsoil or potted plants can also contain weed seeds. However, weeds are only part of the problem with exposed ground in the garden. The soil can also dry out very quickly, creating drought issues for plants, and will erode easily in windy conditions. Covering the soil with a mulch, such as bark, shredded pine and pea straw, is a good interim solution, but these have to be replaced eventually. I think it’s far better to go for a living mulch — in other words, a ground cover. Ground covers help to insulate the soil when the temperature gets very hot or cold. They also help build up humus levels in the soil and provide habitat for beneficial insects. Unlike bark and pebble mulches, ground covers can also add color to the garden with attractive leaves or flowers. There are many to choose from; any plant that will hug the soil, leaving little bare soil exposed, can be classed as a ground cover, whether it’s an herb, a perennial or a low-growing shrub. Take a...
Perhaps garden design in the future will treat trees in small spaces almost as sculptures or living works of art. Whatever happens in the future, there is no doubt that our smaller gardens would not be the same without the benefit of trees. Shown: Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)
Trees in Containers If you don’t want to commit to planting a tree, a container can be a good solution. Some trees are perfectly happy in containers, and most trees will live quite happily in them for at least a limited period of time. Containers let you grow trees that are not suited to your soil conditions or are not fully hardy and require winter protection. They also give you the opportunity to rearrange your garden in the same way you move furniture around your home. But trees planted in containers do require more attention than those planted in the ground. They need to be watered regularly, as the soil can dry out quickly, and need regular feedings, as nutrients tend to leach out. Every few years it is important to repot the tree, replace old compost and, if necessary, move up a pot size to prevent the tree’s becoming stressed and root-bound.
Multistems. Multistem trees combine elements of both trees and shrubs; their benefits make them a great choice for smaller gardens. They can fill a small space while creating a feeling of openness that is not always achieved with a single-stem tree. They provide the benefits of a larger foliage mass and often the decorative impact of beautiful bark. Not all standards can be grown as multistem trees, but silver birch (Betula sp) is a favorite. As a standard tree, it would be far too large for a small garden, but it’s perfect as a multistem. Other good examples include the paper-bark maple (Acer griseum), snowy mespilus (Amelanchier lamarkii) and the Japanese angelica tree (Aralia elata ‘Variegata’). Shown: Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia sp)
Not all trees are suitable for pleaching, but linden (Tilia x europaea), beech (Fagus sylvatica), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and fruit trees, such as apples and pears, are commonly pleached species. Pleached trees tend to be deciduous, though the evergreen oak (Quercus ilex) has been successfully pleached. The pleached apple trees shown here illustrate the benefits of raising trees on stilts in smaller spaces. They not only provide the beauty of the spring blossom and fruit that follows, but also allow space for cropping underneath.
Screening neighboring properties with a single line of pleached trees is perhaps the most common use of this form of trained tree. Planting a square of interlocked pleached trees in the center of the garden is a creative way to adapt this technique.
Pleaching. Pleaching is a method of growing trees, usually in a straight line, with the branches of the trees tied together and clipped to form a flat plane above the bare trunk. The branches are tied to canes or wire and are regularly pruned to keep their shape. Some species used have the tendency to naturally graft themselves onto one another. This method is similar to the traditional espalier system of growing fruit trees against walls, except that neighboring espaliered trees do not connect and grow into each other. And pleached tree foliage tends to be higher up on the trunks, or stilts, as garden designers call them. It takes a lot of work to train and maintain pleached trees, although today they are more widely available as already trained specimens. This method is making a comeback as gardeners and garden designers utilize the ability of pleached trees to create privacy and block wind and sound while creating a wildlife environment in a limited space. Houzz guides to growing fruit trees
Professional garden designers have started incorporating crown raising into their designs, especially when multiple trees are planted as a feature, as with these Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ examples.
Raising the crown. Raising the crown, or canopy, of a tree by removing or shortening the lower branches can create valuable room under a tree while retaining a tree’s benefits. Crown raising does minimal damage to a tree, as long as the removed limbs are not too large and only a few branches are removed at a time and from each spot. Shown: Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia sp)
SaveEmail Controlling Size and Shape Though choosing the right tree is vital, selective pruning and training can also help trees in smaller gardens. Using these methods, some trees that would normally be considered too large for the small garden, such as common hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and the maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba), can be considered. The Greeks and Romans were some of the first to practice this in ancient times, when clipped evergreen trees were a principle ornament of their gardens. Interestingly, the head gardener in Roman gardens was known as the topiarius, so it’s easy to see where we get the term “topiary” from. Topiary in small gardens tends to be decorative, using mainly small-leaved evergreens grown in containers, such as the privet honeysuckle (Lonicera pileata), which is shown here clipped into standard balls.
Environmental benefits. Planting trees in small city gardens can be invaluable to wildlife, providing nesting and roosting sites for birds, nectar and pollen for insects, and a home for aphids and caterpillars, which are important sources of food for many birds. Trees that offer environmental benefits and are best for space-challenged gardens include the hawthorns (Crataegus spp) and rowans (Sorbus spp). Both produce berries in autumn, which provide food for wildlife and great decorative color. Trees such as Sorbus ‘Joseph Rock’, Sorbus sargentiana and Crataegus laevigata ‘Pauls Scarlet’ are favorites for smaller gardens, as they fulfill the size, shape and rate-of-growth needs while benefiting the environment.
People have grown trees in their gardens since ancient times. But as gardens become smaller and more valuable as outdoor living spaces, is there still room for a tree? I know from living with the smallest of garden spaces that whether or not to plant a tree isn’t an easy decision, but it can bring real garden benefits. Trees add volume and height to the garden, as well as year-round interest with foliage, flowers, bark and fruit. But how do you sort through the many offerings in catalogs and nurseries to find a tree that will suit your garden’s size, soil, climate conditions and design requirements, as well as satisfy your taste? Here you’ll learn how to select a tree for a smaller garden, as well as pruning techniques that can widen your choices. Contemporary Landscape by Billinkoff Architecture PLLC Billinkoff Architecture PLLC SaveEmail Selecting the Right Tree When choosing a tree for a smaller garden, standard reference lists are not always helpful, as most of these lists were drawn up when a small garden was much larger than it is today. Plenty of trees are suitable for smaller spaces, however; there are just three things to consider: size, shape and rate of growth. Matur...
Jocelyn H. Chilvers SaveEmail Tulip species and varieties seem to grow annually. The large hybrids are the most familiar, available in colors from white to almost black, with flower shapes that range from the classic cup to fringed or lily like. You’ll find early, mid- and late-season options, so you can keep tulips growing all season long. You can also force them. Specialty species are also available, particularly from specialists. Look for these in well-stocked nurseries or from bulb growers. In mild-winter regions, prechill bulbs before planting. Set them in a sunny spot, three times as deep as they are wide and spaced up to 8 inches apart, unless you are growing en masse in a container or raised bed. In cold-winter regions, plant in October or November; wait until December or January where it is warmer. Protect the bulbs from gophers and other underground pests, and from any animals that like to dig up bulbs (squirrels, racoons, inquisitive puppies). Provide water during growth and bloom, but they don’t need much summer moisture. If you’re trying for repeat blooms, fertilize before the plants bloom and then allow the foliage to die back and wither before removing it.
Tulip (Tulipa) USDA zones: 3 to 9, depending on species Bloom period: Early to late spring Height: 3 inches to 3 feet How to plant: Three times as deep as they are wide, 4 to 8 inches apart Light requirement: Full sun or light shade in hot climates, though they will grow toward the light Water requirement: Regular water while growing and blooming; less when foliage dies Tulips, along with daffodils, are one of the most recognized signs of spring in the garden. They’re a bit more formal than daffodils and probably a bit less versatile in the landscape, as they aren’t as effective when naturalized. But they still can fit into any number of garden styles, and their colors and interesting shapes mean there’s truly a tulip for everyone. Tulips may be everywhere in spring, but they’re not really all that easy to keep going year after year. They want specific conditions: cold winters, short springs and hot summers, and even with those conditions they may not rebloom the following year. In warm-winter climates, it’s almost impossible to get them to rebloom. For that reason, treating them as annuals, including using them in containers, is often the best choice.
While all members of the genus are technically narcissus, you’ll often find the term "daffodil" used for the larger bulbs and "narcissus" for the smaller ones. The best known of the larger daffodils is the trumpet daffodil King Alfred, whereas paperwhite is one of the well-known smaller varieties. But there are lots of choices, so choose the ones you find most attractive. Look for solid bulbs that feel heavy. When planting, amend the soil as needed to provide good drainage. Water thoroughly after planting and keep the plants well watered (if nature doesn’t do it for you) until the flowers have faded and the leaves have started to turn yellow. Keep dry until fall.
Daffodil, narcissus (Narcissus) USDA zones: 3 to 9, depending on species Bloom period: Late winter through early spring Height: 3 to 18 inches How to plant: Twice as deep as their height (wait until midfall in warm climates) Light requirement: Full sun; light shade after the bloom period if summers are hot Water requirement: Regular water while growing and blooming Eclectic Landscape by Natalie DeNormandie Natalie DeNormandie SaveEmail Daffodils are the essential spring bulbs, their bright yellow and white flowers (sometimes found with touches of pink, orange or red) signifying the arrival of spring. They’re also ideal for beginning bulb growers. They are available in a range of sizes, grow easily and need minimal care — and gophers don’t like them. They can be casually planted and allowed to spread naturally, set into formal rows, massed in containers, set into rock gardens and perennial beds, tucked next to ponds and even forced for early indoor blooms.
Grape hyacinth (Muscari) USDA zones: 4 to 9 Bloom period: Early spring Height: 8 to 18 inches How to plant: In early fall, 2 inches deep and 3 inches apart Light requirement: Full sun to light shade Water requirement: Regular water from fall to spring; less or no water in summer Though its flower does resemble that of the hyacinth, thus the common name, the grape hyacinth is its own plant with its own contribution to the bulb world. It’s an early bloomer that’s easy to grow, reaching between 8 and 18 inches in height, depending on the species, with blue to purple blooms. Not only is it good for containers, but it can form a lovely carpet under trees and shrubs and fits in well tucked along the edge of a path or in a rock garden. Plant in early fall.
Snowflake (Leucojum) USDA zones: 4 to 8 Bloom period: Winter to midspring Height: 12 to 18 inches How to plant: 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 inches apart Light requirement: Full sun when in bloom; light shade or filtered sun during hot summers Water requirement: Regular water from planting until the foliage dies back; periodic moisture during summer This lily-of-the-valley-like plant, often mistaken for Galanthus, is an easy-to-grow bulb that’s perfect for naturalizing and filling in small spaces. The mistakenly named Summer Snowflake (L. aestivum) begins flowering in late November in milder parts of the west and midspring in other climates. It’s characterized by long leaves and flower stems with three to five small, white bell-like blooms. Spring Snowflake (L. vernum) blooms in midwinter to early spring with just one blossom per stem. It needs cold winters to do well. Both species should be planted in fall.
Beardless irises. These include Japanese iris, Louisiana iris, Siberian iris and Spuria iris. There are also some specialty species. Japanese irises have 4- to 12-inch-wide flowers that sit on stems that can reach 4 feet. Colors include white, pink, blue and all shades of purple; flowers appear in late spring. They are a good choice for along the edges of ponds. In areas with warm summers, give then some light shade or filtered afternoon sun. Plant 2 inches deep and 1 1/2 feet apart, with the leaf ends pointed in the direction you want them to grow. They can be set out in spring as well. Louisiana irises are native to the lowlands and swamps of the Gulf Coast of the U.S.; they rival the color range of the bearded irises and grow 2 to 5 feet tall. True to their native habitat, they want a lot of moisture and do well along ponds in neutral to acidic soil. Plant 1 inch deep and 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart. They generally like full sun, but give them light shade if the summer heat is intense. They’ll also need winter protection if the ground freezes in winter. Siberian irises have flowers in shades of white, purple, pink, blue and even light yellow that almost seem to peer out from their ...
Tansy Leaf Phacelia (Phacelia tanacetifolia) Native to Arizona, California, Colorado, Kansas, Nevada and Oregon Native range: Coast, desert, inland and mountain Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 3 to 10) P. tanacetifolia does well in both full sun and light shade. As one of the tallest annuals — up to 4 feet tall — and the most widespread phacelia, P. tanacetifolia is so robust and has such high-quality nectar and pollen that it is used as an agricultural cover crop to attract pollinators. Because of its appealing caterpillar-like coils and the large numbers of pollinators who feed on it, I ensure that there’s always space for P. tanacetifolia in my home garden.
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