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10 Steps to a Beautiful Green Lawn
Learn to love your lawn, whether you're starting afresh or bringing an tired patch of grass back to life
Carol Bucknell
30 September 2014
Houzz New Zealand Contributor. Journalist who lives in Auckland and specialises in writing about gardens, houses and design. Author of two books on garden design: Contemporary gardens of New Zealand and Big Ideas for Small Gardens both published by Penguin. I also design gardens and am a passionate gardener. Currently I write the garden pages for New Zealand magazine Your Home & Garden and contribute to NZ Gardener and NZ House & Garden magazines.
Houzz New Zealand Contributor. Journalist who lives in Auckland and specialises... More
A lovely healthy green lawn is the perfect foil for plants in a garden and the ideal place for children and pets to play outdoors. Adults, too, enjoy lazing about on the grass in summer, and mowing lawns is always a great way to exercise. A well-kept lawn will add value to your property, help stabilise the soil and reduce water run-off. If your lawn is less soft and green, and more brown and patchy, then it might be time to give it a face lift or even start afresh. Spring and autumn are the best times to sow or turf new lawns and renovate existing ones. Not sure where to start? Just follow these steps and this summer you’ll be the proud owner of a gorgeous green lawn.
PLANNING
STEP 1: Decide on the size
With water such a precious commodity in many regions the cost of maintaining a large lawn can be prohibitive. Consider reducing the size of your lawn and using drought-tolerant turf grass varieties that are appropriate for your area. Perhaps some areas of your garden may be better planted with drought-tolerant ground covers, especially where an area is sloping.
STEP 1: Decide on the size
With water such a precious commodity in many regions the cost of maintaining a large lawn can be prohibitive. Consider reducing the size of your lawn and using drought-tolerant turf grass varieties that are appropriate for your area. Perhaps some areas of your garden may be better planted with drought-tolerant ground covers, especially where an area is sloping.
STEP 2: Get the shape right
Always go for a clearly defined shape with a lawn. Curves are easier to mow than sharp corners, but make them generous or the overall shape will look odd. Try to avoid having small beds in the middle of the lawn. Ditto for specimen trees, which are better planted in a garden bed to avoid damage from a mower. They also look much nicer this way than isolated in the middle of a lawn.
Always go for a clearly defined shape with a lawn. Curves are easier to mow than sharp corners, but make them generous or the overall shape will look odd. Try to avoid having small beds in the middle of the lawn. Ditto for specimen trees, which are better planted in a garden bed to avoid damage from a mower. They also look much nicer this way than isolated in the middle of a lawn.
PREPARATION
STEP 3: Do your prep
Good preparation is vital to the success of new lawns whether you’re sowing seed, planting grass plugs or laying turf. Start well before it’s time to sow or plant, digging or cultivating the soil with a rotary hoe to about 15cm deep so that it creates the crumbly soil that grass likes.
Next remove any stones and weeds. New weeds will keep popping up, so continue weeding for at least three weeks to get rid of the deep-rooted types such as dock and dandelion.
STEP 3: Do your prep
Good preparation is vital to the success of new lawns whether you’re sowing seed, planting grass plugs or laying turf. Start well before it’s time to sow or plant, digging or cultivating the soil with a rotary hoe to about 15cm deep so that it creates the crumbly soil that grass likes.
Next remove any stones and weeds. New weeds will keep popping up, so continue weeding for at least three weeks to get rid of the deep-rooted types such as dock and dandelion.
STEP 4: Make it level
Although lawns don’t have to be flat the surface needs to be even so there aren’t hollows and bumps everywhere. For new grass areas, use a purpose-built grader (or make your own), then rake the surface. Leave to settle for a week or so, then regrade. Very soft soil may need compacting either by treading or rolling when damp.
If repairing the garden, you can fill any odd hollows, and use a shovel to remove the tops and level noticeable bumps, before adding new grass (the same type as the remaining garden) to these patches.
Although lawns don’t have to be flat the surface needs to be even so there aren’t hollows and bumps everywhere. For new grass areas, use a purpose-built grader (or make your own), then rake the surface. Leave to settle for a week or so, then regrade. Very soft soil may need compacting either by treading or rolling when damp.
If repairing the garden, you can fill any odd hollows, and use a shovel to remove the tops and level noticeable bumps, before adding new grass (the same type as the remaining garden) to these patches.
STEP 5: Check drainage
Good drainage is essential for lawns as it allows water and air to get to the roots of the grass. It will also help prevent moss growing in your lawn. If your ground is boggy consider installing drainage coils.
Good drainage is essential for lawns as it allows water and air to get to the roots of the grass. It will also help prevent moss growing in your lawn. If your ground is boggy consider installing drainage coils.
PLANTING
STEP 6: Choose the right turf or seed mix
There are many grass seeds available for different needs and conditions: shade, very hot weather, hardwearing (such as for a children’s play area as in this Sydney garden), frost and so forth. Choose a mix (or turf) that suits your garden.
Sow seed on a windless day, ideally in the early morning. For a nice even coverage the experts recommend dividing the mix into two and sowing half in a north-south direction across the entire space, then the rest in an east-west direction (this is also a good method to use when fertilising). Rake the ground lightly after sowing.
STEP 6: Choose the right turf or seed mix
There are many grass seeds available for different needs and conditions: shade, very hot weather, hardwearing (such as for a children’s play area as in this Sydney garden), frost and so forth. Choose a mix (or turf) that suits your garden.
Sow seed on a windless day, ideally in the early morning. For a nice even coverage the experts recommend dividing the mix into two and sowing half in a north-south direction across the entire space, then the rest in an east-west direction (this is also a good method to use when fertilising). Rake the ground lightly after sowing.
STEP 7: Spread base fertiliser
Evenly spread an all-purpose fertiliser on newly planted grass seeds (not a standard lawn fertiliser) at about 10kg per 100 square metres – one with a balanced NPK (nitrogen/phosphorus/potassium) ratio. Water it in well.
Once grass seedlings are about 8-10 weeks old you can then feed with a lawn fertiliser which has the high nitrogen content necessary for lawn health.
Evenly spread an all-purpose fertiliser on newly planted grass seeds (not a standard lawn fertiliser) at about 10kg per 100 square metres – one with a balanced NPK (nitrogen/phosphorus/potassium) ratio. Water it in well.
Once grass seedlings are about 8-10 weeks old you can then feed with a lawn fertiliser which has the high nitrogen content necessary for lawn health.
MAINTENANCE
STEP 8: Water often
Only sow or turf areas you can water daily. If you have a large lawn this may mean dividing your planting into 2-3 separate areas. To stop seed washing away in sandy soil, cover with fine compost, and on a sloping site use shade cloth to stabilise it until the seed germinates. Shade cloth also helps reduce evaporation. Keep the area moist with light watering until grass seedlings are strong and healthy.
STEP 8: Water often
Only sow or turf areas you can water daily. If you have a large lawn this may mean dividing your planting into 2-3 separate areas. To stop seed washing away in sandy soil, cover with fine compost, and on a sloping site use shade cloth to stabilise it until the seed germinates. Shade cloth also helps reduce evaporation. Keep the area moist with light watering until grass seedlings are strong and healthy.
STEP 9: Feed the lawn
Aerating the ground beneath lawns is a good idea in wetter areas as heavy downpours can cause compaction, which impairs drainage. Grass does not do well in boggy soil. Use a sharp fork and fill holes with a mixture of sand and soil to improve drainage. Use the same method to add well-rotted compost to light, sandy soils.
Lawns should be fed in spring to keep growth strong throughout summer. Use a special slow-release lawn mix high in nitrogen or feed with an organic seaweed-based liquid fertiliser.
Aerating the ground beneath lawns is a good idea in wetter areas as heavy downpours can cause compaction, which impairs drainage. Grass does not do well in boggy soil. Use a sharp fork and fill holes with a mixture of sand and soil to improve drainage. Use the same method to add well-rotted compost to light, sandy soils.
Lawns should be fed in spring to keep growth strong throughout summer. Use a special slow-release lawn mix high in nitrogen or feed with an organic seaweed-based liquid fertiliser.
STEP 10: Keep your lawn looking good
Check your lawn regularly for invading perennial weeds including couch grass and dock. Dig out any you find removing every bit of the root or else the weed will sprout again.
Also, trim lawn edges to create a lovely, clean outline that will give your garden an instant pick-me-up. Use a sharp edging knife.
Don’t cut lawns too close to the ground (about 5-8cm high) or you’ll create bare patches for weeds to grow. Raising the height of your mower a notch or two so the lawn is a little longer during the warmer months will also provide more shade to the root zone of grass plants, and make your grass a more lush place to sit.
MORE
How to Choose the Right Garden Edging for Your Outdoor Space
So Your Garden Style Is: Formal
Ground Force: Top 10 Ground Covers for Your Garden
Check your lawn regularly for invading perennial weeds including couch grass and dock. Dig out any you find removing every bit of the root or else the weed will sprout again.
Also, trim lawn edges to create a lovely, clean outline that will give your garden an instant pick-me-up. Use a sharp edging knife.
Don’t cut lawns too close to the ground (about 5-8cm high) or you’ll create bare patches for weeds to grow. Raising the height of your mower a notch or two so the lawn is a little longer during the warmer months will also provide more shade to the root zone of grass plants, and make your grass a more lush place to sit.
MORE
How to Choose the Right Garden Edging for Your Outdoor Space
So Your Garden Style Is: Formal
Ground Force: Top 10 Ground Covers for Your Garden
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