Winning Kitchen Formula: Savvy Work Zones and Smart Ergonomics
Plan your ergonomic kitchen around five key 'zones' for a super-functional space that's easy on your back
Karl O'Hanlon
15 November 2016
Houzz New Zealand Contributor. Technical Director at Peter Hay Kitchens Ltd.
When planning a new kitchen, there are a million and one things to consider and this can be daunting. Details can be changed or adapted once the basics are defined without too much drama, but getting the basics right from the beginning is crucial. A work triangle linking the sink, stove and fridge is often considered the best way to go with kitchen design, but what we’ve learnt over the past 20 years is that it’s often more beneficial to think about work zones rather than work triangles.
Once your zones are defined, and placed where they belong in your layout, it’s then time to drill down deeper into the details to get your kitchen ergonomics right. Ergonomically designed kitchens take into account human factors, such as posture, reach and biomechanics, to reduce effort, increase comfort and make cooking and cleaning a breeze.
Once your zones are defined, and placed where they belong in your layout, it’s then time to drill down deeper into the details to get your kitchen ergonomics right. Ergonomically designed kitchens take into account human factors, such as posture, reach and biomechanics, to reduce effort, increase comfort and make cooking and cleaning a breeze.
The work triangle revisited
You may well have heard of the work triangle, which emphasises that an efficient kitchen layout should minimise the distances between the stovetop, sink and fridge to simplify the working process. A lot of people believe that if you get this right there is really nothing that can go wrong, but the work triangle only works if it suits your lifestyle – and that’s different for every homeowner.
Zone planning, on the other hand, is adaptable to every lifestyle. It comprises five key work areas of the kitchen – cleaning, consumables, non-consumables, preparation and cooking. Locating these zones within easy reach and tying them together makes for a wonderful kitchen with fantastic workflow.
You may well have heard of the work triangle, which emphasises that an efficient kitchen layout should minimise the distances between the stovetop, sink and fridge to simplify the working process. A lot of people believe that if you get this right there is really nothing that can go wrong, but the work triangle only works if it suits your lifestyle – and that’s different for every homeowner.
Zone planning, on the other hand, is adaptable to every lifestyle. It comprises five key work areas of the kitchen – cleaning, consumables, non-consumables, preparation and cooking. Locating these zones within easy reach and tying them together makes for a wonderful kitchen with fantastic workflow.
1. The cleaning zone
In this kitchen, the ‘wet’ tasks for cleaning and food prep are grouped together. The dishwasher and the sink cabinet are located in the centre of the wet zone, and the sink cabinet is also in the correct location for waste storage and separation, and household cleaners and cleaning utensils.
In this kitchen, the ‘wet’ tasks for cleaning and food prep are grouped together. The dishwasher and the sink cabinet are located in the centre of the wet zone, and the sink cabinet is also in the correct location for waste storage and separation, and household cleaners and cleaning utensils.
2. The consumables zone
This area is used to store consumer goods, mostly food. These are items that are used for cooking and baking, and are then replenished. They include both chilled and un-chilled foods. That’s why both the refrigerator and freezer cabinets are a fixed part of this zone. Once packages are open, they usually belong in the preparation zone.
This area is used to store consumer goods, mostly food. These are items that are used for cooking and baking, and are then replenished. They include both chilled and un-chilled foods. That’s why both the refrigerator and freezer cabinets are a fixed part of this zone. Once packages are open, they usually belong in the preparation zone.
3. The non-consumables zone
This is a space to store non-foodstuffs such as kitchen utensils, small appliances, cutlery, dishes and glasses. Here, a double row of tall cupboards has consumable pantry items on one side, with non-consumables next to it.
This is a space to store non-foodstuffs such as kitchen utensils, small appliances, cutlery, dishes and glasses. Here, a double row of tall cupboards has consumable pantry items on one side, with non-consumables next to it.
4. The preparation zone
Your prep zone puts kitchen utensils such as knives, chopping boards, small appliances, and other tools required for food preparation within easy reach. It also contains some opened food packets, as well as those that are often used when preparing meals, such as sauces, herbs and spices.
Your prep zone puts kitchen utensils such as knives, chopping boards, small appliances, and other tools required for food preparation within easy reach. It also contains some opened food packets, as well as those that are often used when preparing meals, such as sauces, herbs and spices.
5. The cooking zone
This area is certainly the heart of every kitchen. It contains items such as the stove, oven, microwave and extractor. The items required for cooking live here – pots, pans, baking dishes and cooking utensils.
Find out more about work zones
This area is certainly the heart of every kitchen. It contains items such as the stove, oven, microwave and extractor. The items required for cooking live here – pots, pans, baking dishes and cooking utensils.
Find out more about work zones
Ergonomics step-by-step
Now that you’ve grouped together your items and activities into zones and positioned them for workflow efficiency, it’s time to think about ergonomics. It’s easiest to tackle this methodically, cabinet area by cabinet area. By this I mean base cabinets (cabinets under the bench), tall cabinets (think pantries), and wall cabinets (cabinets at eye level).
Now that you’ve grouped together your items and activities into zones and positioned them for workflow efficiency, it’s time to think about ergonomics. It’s easiest to tackle this methodically, cabinet area by cabinet area. By this I mean base cabinets (cabinets under the bench), tall cabinets (think pantries), and wall cabinets (cabinets at eye level).
1. Base cabinets
You may have nothing against shelves behind cupboard doors in base cabinets – but your back sure does. The use of shelves in base cabinets is an example of poor ergonomics, not just because of the extra bending, but also because it makes it very difficult for you to find items tucked away at the back of a shelf. Drawers give you an overview of the entire cabinet contents.
I know shelves are often a great way to reduce the cost of your kitchen but think about the costs on your body – and your patience – as you have to bend or stretch to locate items or have to remove some of the contents at the front to get to the items at the back. Go for drawers whenever you can.
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You may have nothing against shelves behind cupboard doors in base cabinets – but your back sure does. The use of shelves in base cabinets is an example of poor ergonomics, not just because of the extra bending, but also because it makes it very difficult for you to find items tucked away at the back of a shelf. Drawers give you an overview of the entire cabinet contents.
I know shelves are often a great way to reduce the cost of your kitchen but think about the costs on your body – and your patience – as you have to bend or stretch to locate items or have to remove some of the contents at the front to get to the items at the back. Go for drawers whenever you can.
Browse more kitchen island ideas
Full-extension drawers are even better – you can see and access items right through to the rear of the cabinet. Drawer contents can also be more easily organised to make items even quicker to find – a real efficiency advantage.
2. Tall cabinets
Just as base cabinets are ergonomically superior with less shelving and more drawers, so are tall cabinets, which are generally used for pantries. There are a million and one pull-out pantries on the market and they all provide one simple thing that shelving doesn’t, and that is easy access. The drawers in pull-out pantries bring the contents to you, which makes for a more organised cabinet, higher levels of comfort, and exceptional workflow.
Just as base cabinets are ergonomically superior with less shelving and more drawers, so are tall cabinets, which are generally used for pantries. There are a million and one pull-out pantries on the market and they all provide one simple thing that shelving doesn’t, and that is easy access. The drawers in pull-out pantries bring the contents to you, which makes for a more organised cabinet, higher levels of comfort, and exceptional workflow.
Internal-drawer pantries are even better in tall cabinets. With a pull-out pantry, the entire unit comes out at once, which is great for gaining full access in one movement, but poor in the effort required to open the unit – they’re generally quite heavy. Don’t be seduced by the large carrying capacity many of these pantries have – even with great slide performance, weight is weight and they can be hard to move.
While an internal-drawer pantry does require a two-step process – you open the door, then pull out the drawer – the carrying capacity is generally similar, or greater in some cases. The advantage comes from the individual control of the drawers that makes for a perfect workflow cabinet, with reduced effort.
While an internal-drawer pantry does require a two-step process – you open the door, then pull out the drawer – the carrying capacity is generally similar, or greater in some cases. The advantage comes from the individual control of the drawers that makes for a perfect workflow cabinet, with reduced effort.
3. Wall cabinets
Wall cabinets are common; we all know that you keep items you use often down low and lesser-used items up high. But don’t ignore the ergonomic gains that can be made with the motion of the doors.
Traditional doors open up in a horizontal path, great for full access, but bad because the door is within the user’s head space constantly. Enter cabinet lifters. These allow the door to push upwards and out of the way; no more head-space issues, no more banged heads.
Wall cabinets are common; we all know that you keep items you use often down low and lesser-used items up high. But don’t ignore the ergonomic gains that can be made with the motion of the doors.
Traditional doors open up in a horizontal path, great for full access, but bad because the door is within the user’s head space constantly. Enter cabinet lifters. These allow the door to push upwards and out of the way; no more head-space issues, no more banged heads.
Make more of your available space
For many years, the humble base cabinet has been manufactured at 720 millimetres high, with a toe-kick or plinth of around 150 millimetres, giving a finished height of 870 millimetres. Add a 30-millimetre benchtop and you have a 900-millimetre-high complete unit.
The plinth can be altered up or down to create a benchtop at a comfortable height for the main kitchen user, but also keep in mind that removing some of the plinth height and adding it to the cabinets can provide around 8 per cent more storage in a similar finished height. Valuable storage gains can be made with this simple change.
TELL US
What are the efficient and ergonomic features you like best in your renovated kitchen? Tell us in the Comments below.
MORE
Browse more kitchen photos
For many years, the humble base cabinet has been manufactured at 720 millimetres high, with a toe-kick or plinth of around 150 millimetres, giving a finished height of 870 millimetres. Add a 30-millimetre benchtop and you have a 900-millimetre-high complete unit.
The plinth can be altered up or down to create a benchtop at a comfortable height for the main kitchen user, but also keep in mind that removing some of the plinth height and adding it to the cabinets can provide around 8 per cent more storage in a similar finished height. Valuable storage gains can be made with this simple change.
TELL US
What are the efficient and ergonomic features you like best in your renovated kitchen? Tell us in the Comments below.
MORE
Browse more kitchen photos
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My builder has specified kitchen bench heights of 950. I think this OK, but I'm of average height. My current (15 year old) kitchen has bench heights of 900. What's the thinking now?
Hi Trish, 950mm is to high for most people. Most tops these days are about 920mm finished height. Whilst 30mm doesn't sound much, it will have a noteable effect on how functional the space is. Thanks Karl.
The thing is, different tasks do require different heights. Cutting vegetables and rolling pastry are more comfortable at a slightly lower height, somewhere between 850mm and 900mm. You need to be able to lean in and maybe apply a little pressure. The latter height, or maybe a smidge higher, works for a cooking surface, but your sink could probably do with being at 950, or possibly even higher, to avoid you having to bend your back over the dishes. Even if you have a dishwasher, this is an important factor. Try this with your sink: Stand in front of it, back straight, looking ahead, reach out and touch the bottom back of your sink. If your fingers don't reach, your bench is too low, or your sink is placed too far back. This is surprisingly common!