" I don’t really want to reconstruct the wall. "

Bite. The. Bullet.

I'd definitely close that up. Shouldn't be too difficult if you're good with drywall or too expensive if you hire a drywall company.

I would not make this a bedroom. Unless you are ready to close it up or put a "window", the opening is not friendly to a bedroom setting.

" See if it could be professionally polished again and let new buyers decide? "

Between what G&S says above and this question by you is your answer.

Selling in a few years at that price point, I wouldn't cover a polished slab. Texas buyers get concrete, and it's basically indestructible. The chocolate stain is what dates it, not the floor. Have a concrete polishing pro look at it. Often they can grind, go lighter or more natural, and repolish for way less than tile or LVP through the whole first floor. If they say it can't be lightened, I'd still do a fresh polish and let buyers decide. LVP over a good slab right before listing can actually read as a downgrade.

AI would find 5-15 homes per 10,000 listings $500k-700k in El Paso and Lubbock areas. That is very niche. I'd change it. But, imo, only to engineered Euro Oak.

Ocala Pro AC Repair 3 year old post.......................

Is that screening or glass. Right off hand I would say it is screening. If so, you are already open to the exterior which is the best cooling strategy if you have air flow. I do think an umbrella like you are showing will be necessary on sunny day. Perhaps you could supplement the air flow with one or two tall floor fans.

I’d postpone the cabin trip until the situation is checked properly. Bed bugs can hitchhike in luggage, coats, and car upholstery, and not everyone reacts to bites. Washing helps, but a hot dryer cycle is more reliable. If they still go, keep bags sealed, avoid upholstered furniture, and unpack straight into the dryer afterward.

" I’d postpone the cabin trip until the situation is checked properly. "

11 year old post................... ezzzzzrider

" I'm halfway through my second home build "

" It's given me an idea, but before I build anything "

" Here are some pictures of my latest bathroom design adventure! "

But, which is it? Is this your home? This is confusing.

I just edited the post to be more clear.

Lots of AI chats that can easily do this for people these days ... you just have to notice the weird stuff that AI does that aren't quite right.

I've said this before and I'll repeat it here: if I had a client who was crowd-sourcing ideas on the internet, I would not be happy. It's bad enough when you have to deal with in-laws, friends, colleagues, et al, who give their advice on your decor. But when you have a myriad of strangers, it's quite insulting.

Unless your designer is not helping you, is not responsive to your needs and wants, then trust him or her to do what's best for you and your home. No one here knows you as well as they do. And if you feel that your designer not all you wanted, then find someone else. Or fire him or her, and ask away on Houzz.

You will also need to do some serious work in that area as you have some fairly serious water damage there and what you cannot see will most lilely be worse. That much water damage leads me to think something has been leaking for quite some time. I am afraid you are thinking bandaids when you will need surgery.

That fixture end detail helps a lot. I'd check the valve and spout connections behind that wall first, since a slow drip there will run along the subfloor and only show up when the shower runs.

I did check the valve and replaced the cartridge. Tested it for leaks prior to putting the new faceplate on with handle and it was dry. Also replaced the spout that has the pull up knob to shower. Honestly i dont love it since the internal parts are plastic and may change that out again when i find a better one. I will try some of the other test suggestions you have offered. I appreciate all of your suggestions, ideas and professional comments. I may even open up the access I cut out in the wall bigger and get in there better, move that insulation so i can see more at the bottom. Thank you

Good time to be thinking about it. A few things to sort out before you talk to builders.

First, what kind. A garage conversion is usually far cheaper than a new detached cottage. In California's statewide owner survey, the median garage conversion cost $90,000 versus $180,000 for a detached unit. If you have a sound garage, start there.

Second, the site. Walk the path from the street to where the unit would sit. Can a truck or crane get in? How far is it to the sewer line and the electrical panel? Long runs add real money.

Third, the rules. Ask your city whether you must live on the property, what the size cap is, and whether a junior ADU inside the house would be simpler.

Fourth, the money. Get a full quote with permits, utilities and foundation, then add 15 to 20 percent. Talk to a lender early if you plan to finance it.

Then get two or three bids for the same scope.

" Good time to be thinking about it. "

T.J. Stack really? Post is 9 YEARS OLD!!

if underside not polished, white powder stains will get on clothing of anyone wjo sits at counter if clothing ( ie knee and thigh area) touch undeside

" Can it be polished once it's installed? "

Not as easily and tougher to contain the mess. Many fabricators will probably balk at that no nmatter how much you want to pay them.

bpath:

I disagree. A couple good bat swings and this is coming down; not so with a wood post, however, this will hold paint better and never rot.

Sight unseen, chrome.

Stainless steel is the most practical for faucets and will go with anything.

I vote for brushed stainless or brushed nickel.

Brushed b/c water spots are less noticeable in a brushed finish than a polished.

FYI -

I would also get a brushed stainless sink for both the above reason as well as b/c scratches are less noticeable. Note, however, that over time the sink will develop a "patina" from the scratches and no longer look like scratches.

If you don't like scratches, get a stainless steel sink grid for the bottom of the sink. Sink grids not only reduce scratching, they also lift items off the bottom of the sink for easier sink rinsing as well as raise colanders so there's no "backwash" into the colander when draining things like pasta.

Standing water will lead to mildew and smells. If you need to rip it out, rip it out. Nothing good will come from leaving it as is.

Don't try to pry the drain flange straight off the pan, since that can tear the membrane and make the repair bigger than it needs to be. The glued PVC joint is the part you can deal with separately: cut the pipe below the drain, or from below if you have access, and use a coupling to reconnect it once the drain is re-set. If the flange itself has to come up, lift it carefully, then patch the membrane with Kerdi membrane and seal the seams before you test it again. Set the new drain on a dry-fit first, check it with a level in both directions, and only thinset it once it sits flat with no rocking. A quick flood test before tile is worth the extra day, since it will show whether that low spot is really gone.

Don't rip it out blind. Cut the PVC below the drain first, and if you have access from underneath, do it from there. A coupling reconnects it later. Then ask Schluter tech support whether your drain can be lifted and the membrane patched, or whether the pan needs replacing. Waterproofing is the one place not to improvise, so follow their instructions or ask a licensed tile pro to look at it. If the dip is shallow, they may have a sanctioned fix that leaves the drain alone. Flood test either way before tile.

" CURRENT LAYOUT in cm "

Feet and inches would be better as this is a US based page.

Option 3 would be my preference. I like the bed looking at window.

Feel more airy... Get rid of the wardrobe, move the bed to the wardrobe wall opposit the doors/window. Forget any shelves over the bed. Paint the room, walls and ceiling all the same white with an undertone of your liking, and minimize the clutter.

Light, textured bedding a subtle patterned area rug under the bed. Keep it simple, calm.

one night stand wall mounted reading light and a large piece of art.

Bedrooms are for two things, no need to over decorate.

Are you sure it's 360? I suspect that you may be thinking of LoE-340 because it has a bluish tint as you described it.

LoE-340 could be an advantage depending where you live and the layout of your windows, but not everyone likes the blue tint, and it's going to be a good bit darker than 366.

It is worth adding only if you match it to the problem you are actually trying to solve. A standard shower filter is mainly useful for sediment and chlorine, and it will not soften hard water, so limescale can still build up. During a remodel, keep the shower fittings standard so a filter can be added or removed without replumbing, and check cartridge life and replacement cost first, since running costs matter more than the head itself. AURAJEX (aurajex.com) is one portable option, with swappable cartridges for sediment and chlorine. Disclosure: I help with marketing for AURAJEX.

8 month old post..................

" Do any of these companies sell a good quality product that is less expensive than the Sierra Pacific H3 windows? "

No, unless you end up with a Marvin Essentials or Elevate. Possible Kolbe Forgent but not certain on that.

" Does Provia sell a good vinyl window, and are there any other vinyl windows brands that you would recommend? "

Yes, not the best but far from the worst. Okna, Vytex are some of the better ones out there but most of the better are regional. What area of the country are you in?

@millworkman Southeast at the coast (but not right on the water)

Okna, Vytex and Anlin would be wheree I would start, see if any of them are available.

T.J. Stack 2 year old post.............

Fair point, I didn't catch the date. I'm leaving it up in case it helps someone researching the same question now, since ADU rules have changed a lot in the last couple of years.

How about a pic of the kitchen with the shiplap installed on the island it will make a difference.

You’re welcome!

Very nice change -- it looks much more cohesive.

The question I have is:

What does a "refresh" mean to you?

"Refresh" = has different meanings. For some people, a refresh is $500 -$1,000 budget. For others, a refresh may = $5,000.

You need to provide more information - especially, what is your budget for a "refresh?"

I know someone who did a "refresh" a year ago - she replaced all of the cabinet doors to a shaker style. She didn't spend a lot of $$ on the doors/drawer fronts - she bought replacement doors (professionally finished -constructed out of mdf because she didn't want to spend $$$ on the doors because she plans to do a full renovation in 7-8 years) from someone on Etsy. She also changed all of the handles/knobs in the kitchen. She removed the backsplash tile + installed new countertops. She couldn't decide on a new backsplash tile - so, she simply had a 6" splash made from the countertop slabs (she planned on removing the 6" splash and installing tile later, but now she likes how the kitchen looks with just the 6" countertop piece + painted wall).

She had rollout drawers in some of the lower cabinets + converted a few lowers from doors to drawers. She spent under 5K.

Without knowing the budget, it's a bit of a waste of time for people to make suggestions.

Sash needs to come out, should be screws holding the sash together from the ends, kind of assembled around the glass. Most likely this is the way the window is constructed, no guarantees, just from appearances.

I just need to remove the sashes. The windows in the video look very similar to mine. They look like you just force them out of the compression tracks and tilt them back, then out. Thanks, your reply was very helpful.

Just push in on track and work it out. some times you may have to go back and fourth a couple times. The top sash will definenetly need this done . When you put the sash back in make sure to to put the cam on the window above shoe in the track and push down a little to engage.

Match the rest of the siding an get rid of the red window color. No need for a feature at all as it does not add elegance at all. Just my .02.

All the windows shuold be the same color. If the reats are dark brionze or black, that window should be as well. No teak wood alu profile.

I think your problem is you have too many different feature sidings. You have the beige and reddish striped ones to the left of the door. You have the black marble below that window. You have the brown and beige on the balcony and the wood in the gable. None of the beiges go with your white siding. I'd simplify and unify. Personally, I think your house is elegant enough without any highlighting, but if you want something, pick one that goes with the wood in the gable.

Also, we don't know what you mean by "highlight wall" since the balcony and the first floor window are not the same walls.

You look like you live in place where it's easy to grow a lush garden and you have a lot of paved area. I'd pull up some pavers on the left and plant some lovely flowering shrubs. I might put a kidney-shaped garden island in the middle of your paver ocean, if you have the room.

Yes, your dad got scammed. Any decent electrician checks the meter or the main breaker before touching anything, so charging $650 when the power was literally shut off is a joke.

I had the exact same thing happen with me. I called Indiana Michigan Power and had them send me the service disconnect record with the exact date and time the power was cut. I sent that proof to the electrician with a demand for a refund, and he paid it back pretty quick once he saw I had the paper trail.

If he played dumb, you could file a complaint with the state licensing board. That usually gets their attention fast.

" If he played dumb, you could file a complaint with the state licensing board. That usually gets their attention fast. "

@Ajury Munomendy, this all happened two years ago.......................

LVP may end up telegraphing every grout joint...........................

To properly install LVP over existing tile. You need to skim with concrete compound to smooth it out. You would need to grind or shot blast the glazing on the tile and grout for a mechanical bond. Apply your leveler or skim coat. Then install your LVP.

AI. Geesh

Wheelchair ramps don't enhance drive-up appeal but I'll be dammed if I ask interweb buds before installing one if it makes life easier. Seriously, which looks worse, scratched and chipped drywall or a chair rail? My advise is when you begin to feel you must follow the herd,let loose and make a few dicisions for yourself and enjoy moments of freedom.

darbuka 8 year old post that was dug up by a Spammer hawking his vent hoods.

Would love to see updated photos!

Why would they not just tile to the floor and use a tile base or a vinyl cove base of some sort to cover the edge of the tray/pan?

For the edge poking through the half wall, treat it as a joint to finish rather than a tray edge to hide: run the wall tile down to the tray and cap the joint with a matching tile trim or solid threshold piece, sealed with silicone instead of grout so small movement does not crack it. Before that, confirm the tray flange and waterproofing sit behind the wall board rather than being cut around it, and keep the drain and trap reachable — a neat cap is only worth it if a slow drain can still be cleared without removing the wall.

Rebecca Martin , if you would like advice it would be best to start your own thread.

Soffits aren't exactly something that you want to call attention to. So, will suggest not painting them a dark contrasting color.

Context is key, post up some pics of the area in question.

Oh and I’m in New York so fairly wide swings in climate.

Maybe look at a polyaspartic finish over new concrete.

We've had it applied to both our garage and a front walkway and porch area.

(Usually has a 15 year warranty.)

You can get custom colors or color combinations, as well as a micro fleck finish.

Meow: "One check worth doing before the door is adjusted is whether water is pooling at the threshold because the pan is draining slowly."

As shown in the photos, the pan is quite deep. The cause of the problem -- the dam is inside the sliding door -- was described earlier.

Satin bronze in a PVD finish is a good choice for a bathroom if you want it to stay even over time. It holds up a lot better to cleaning and hard water than a living finish, which will change color as it wears. The main thing is to order all the trim from the same line at once, so the tone matches across the faucet, shower trim, and accessories. It is also worth confirming the lead time before you demo, since those finishes are often made to order.

" It is also worth confirming the lead time before you demo, since those finishes are often made to order. "

@Santiago Miller Months old post at this point so probably finished...............

I have a house we are having difficulties matching this color to off brand fixtures. Trying to cut cost where I can

" I have a house we are having difficulties matching this color to off brand fixtures. Trying to cut cost where I can "

Huh? Wjat is your question @Angie Corn

They did in fact put the redgard over cement board. Then at the bottom it was hot mopped with what looks like actual cement over it.

" Drywall is a recommended substrate under Schluter Kerdi waterproofing "

True @joseph_corlett, Schluter gives it their blessing but the drywall manufacturers say absolutely not so we have a bit of a conundrum there.

Your not fixing that wiithout tearing it all up, possibly including the subfloor and new tile.

Why are people assuming it is a mistake? I certainly know people who would lay it that way quite intentionally. It's much less boring.

A rug, not necessarily large , will draw your eyes away from perceived imperfections.

I would use a quality Fiberglass Door like a Provia or a Homeguard. Stay out of the box stores and the doors they sell.

In that heat and humidity I'd look at a fiberglass door with a wood-grain finish. It doesn't swell, so the deadbolt stays put, and mold just wipes off. If you want to keep real wood, seal all six sides, including the top and bottom edges, and re-coat it every couple of years.

Thank you so very much! I appreciate all your advice!

lrd_lvr

Tough to tell as most are too far away and too much in the way but no the house wrap does not look correct, nor were the correct fasteners used. Why 3 different brands? Tyvek is good the other two are basically useless. Is the pink board everywhere?

Sorry my thread is strange. I have been very overwhelmed and stressed and didn't do a great job explaining things because I'm out of my depth in all of this. I am in a government lead abatement program for "enclosure" so the contract does specify that tape be used to seal all seams and edges to create an airtight barrier. The contractor and the program worker and the state worker all seem to say "it's fine because it passed clearance". But clearance test is a moment in time after they clean really well and there is literally still areas of peeling lead on my house right now. And I'm worried because of all the short cuts and errors that have happened along the way (installed a basement window upside down, covered over my gables and crawl space, left orange portion of the ac disconnect box wire exposed outside, covered actively peeling lead paint areas behind a piece of vinyl and caulk or behind an open cavity with a gap in the bottom of the vinyl corner piece on the porch that you can see the original wood (lead) house materials underneath/behind with chips flaking on the ground of my porch, etc ) though the contractor literally didn't follow almost anything as it was written in the scope. And so many errors along the way too. They just called/covered over the door jamb. All the doors and windows are out of square (seals are warped/gapped, screens don't sit flush, uneven gap when opened, etc). SO many weird gaps and holes all around the sliding and trim where fan fold, wrap, or even the original lead-paintes wood can be seen. Cuts sliced into vinyl to put cords behind. And didn't follow most of what was listed on the scope of work contract. State worker said "we give them our recommendation but we can't really enforce anything, we tried the contractor will be doing the right thing". Whaaat??? Why even have a contract then or why not add multiple options to each section instead of making it seem required. It's all so confusing and I'm on my own trying to navigate all of this. It's been such a nightmare and I wish I never signed up for this program.

Can you cancel the contract, and get someone to come in and fix the worst things. It doesnt sound like it will get any better, so best to stop it, and fix what you can.

The OP's profile states he is a General Contractor so this must be a flip that he is crowd sourcing..........................

" Return to sender, address unknown. No such number, no such zone". Elvis

Option 1 is our selection but as others have said, the option 2 does not match dimensions. A floor plan should be provided to give proper assistance.

Showrooms are not the place place to make final color choices. These need to be looked at in your home with your lighting. Backsplash tile type and color comes when all else is finished.

We are planning on a large Quartersawn Oak island and then a tall appliance garage hutch with glass in the same wood to break up the white a bit. So hopefully we can find tile and counters to soften the whiter cabinets

"To change the perimeter to KM cabinets to have more white options will cost +$5K."

"The one photo on the buffet with a large clock in the back is in our space/lighting which is what iniated some concerns and then anytime we take the door to look at counters/tile etc it has all sorts of understones and felt like it may cause some difficulty when we get to the stage of picking those things out."

I will ask............

This is reno?

How long is your anticipated stay in the house? Is it ten years, more?

Where are the pictures of the existing space?

Is there a plan for the new, what is staying, what is going? Do you have a 2 d layout to show?

A 5k splurge amortized over ten years, is 500 dollars a year, to have the white you truly want, not the white you settled upon.

Before whites, before oak islands, before tops, and back splashes and many more elements? Is Layout, function , storage,,,,,the p.l.a.n: )

@JUDY GRAHAM in case you want the paint color for my living room in my ”portfolio” , it’s is BM dove WING (not dove white) on the walls, hearth and mantel. the cased beams, cased openings, entertainment center, and crown are SW snowbound. ceiling is BM dove white

i’m about to paint the cased openings, beams, crown and entertainment center all BW dove wing (same color as the walls).

the back patio door is SW worldly gray. we have 5 kids and a great dane, so i wanted the door to be darker than sw snowbound (kids are grimy when they touch doors ;)

i just repainted the patio door BM cedar key, and i like it more than the previous SW worldly gray. it goes better with the floors. cedar key is a lovely color. it was the first time i worked with it, and i just love it.

You cannot make up your mind because 1 shinle and 2 small sample boards give you realistically zero context. As I mentioned get a full bundle lay out at least 6 or 8 full shingles.

^^^, or really at the end if the day a design element. You typically do not want to draw any attention to it other than being sure no one falls into it.

I am guessing the curved preformed wells are made so there is no seam for possible leakage...

I've used only the ribbed style, but suggest you do an integrated step ladder style for easier escape when needed.

https://windowwellsupply.com/product-category/window-wells/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20008270713&gbraid=0AAAAAC6aM5LAxsbhdj9kx4NDo8Do6wGW8&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq7Cn5NzQlwMVJKMDAB2gOBstEAAYASAAEgJNd_D_BwE&_filter_pagination=2

Yes, check with the contractor as noted above composite material seldom has the same structural integrity as wood so the larger spans may not be possible.

I'd go with the full-height screens. Fewer lines makes the porch feel bigger and you see more of the marsh. If your installer wants the extra support, one thin rail at about waist height is a fair middle ground. Painting the frame a dark color also makes the screens almost disappear.

Wow, thank you all for the valuable input! These are definitely questions I had not thought of! All of you being in agreement as to doing away with the horizontal rail also reassures me of that direction! Thanks again!

" but if you were told there would be no seam "

@Cami Leyva OP did not say he was not told there would be no seam he was not told there would be a seam, meaning he was also not told there would not be a seam. The fabricator should have shown you a layout and had you sign off on it. Again, What did the installer / fabricator use as an excuse?

That's a nasty seam. They should have indexed the material into Integra Adhesives archive which would have told them the exact color adhesive to use. Too may guys just try to eye it up and fail. It could be gently heated, separated, and done over or even sawn apart.

We don't know the dimensions, but presumably there is a seam because the width of your cabinets is greater than the width of the slab.

I agree it's a horrible seam. I hope you get some satisfaction from the fabricator.

Sorry about your builder. Since the metal frame is already up, I'd look at fixing slats to it instead of a fully custom screen. Dark stained cedar or powder coated aluminum slats, spaced so you still get light and the downtown view, are much simpler to build than welded panels. A cheaper option in Houston heat is stainless cables on the frame with a fast climbing vine like star jasmine.

Your $50 to 100K number will not change much as honestly the labor and equipment will be the bulk of that. I would go with the original plan with the perf metal and suck it up, that's why planning on the front end is key.

" it's the stacked pair that looks tall. "

What stacked pair? The OP never posted a pic so we have no idesa what she has other than a vague description @Alex Lane

That sign was just put there to get an idea of how a gallery around those pictures would work. I took thst pic and sent it to my friend so we could get an idea. I didnt realize it was even in the posted pic! I was experimenting trying to see if I could get something to work, because my husband hates putting holes in the wall, and then taking them down. I did use AI which kind of got me into this mess because my gut told me they wouldnt look right, but it sent a visual and I thought it may possibly look ok. They were an impulse buy, and not at all what I originally visualized there. I will definitely replace them with a narrower, longer, pic. Thank all of you for your creative ideas! I have a long hallway where I may be able to better use them.

Sounds like the right decision…trust your instincts! Agree, not the spot for these!

I agree that over-spanned roof sheathing is often the culprit when you see rafters telegraphing through a roof. The fact that the defects in the OP's roof are more pronounced near the ridge vent adds an additional question to be investigated. Hopefully, there will be some good detective work and the root cause will be determined and remedied.

" New remodel "

Any pics of the room? Context is key and the bathroom needs to be the sum of ALL the parts.

It’s currently gutted but door will open to double bowl vanity, toilet to the left and shower with glass wall to left of that