Hello everyone, I'm back. As they never did answer my email, I went to the Melbourne supplier's shop and discovered that, although I do like Kerlite, it is VERY expensive. They gave me the phone number of their tiler, I phoned him, he was going to come out to give me a quote, but never did come. In the end, I didn't chase him, because he did tell me on the phone how much he charges per meter to lay them. :-) Looks like I'll be going with the suggestion of Dytecture and replace just the kitchen area tiles. Now I have a new question. I had a few people out here and am getting contradictory advice. Some say I should strip the existing kitchen, lay the tiles, THEN put the kitchen on top of the tiles ._They_ say it would look better, less cutting of tiles needed, so no patchwork near the cupboards and also the cupboards would be on "higher ground" in case of a flood. The other camp tells me that doing it this way would make the job take a lot longer, and it is better for the cupboards to "sit" below the tiles, sort of a reinforcement and the difference in the look would hardly be noticeable. _They_ say that the people advising laying the tiles first are just being lazy - it is just easier for them. Of course, I would also need more tiles if I put them under the cupboards as well, so there would be added expense as well. While, getting it done as quickly as possible is definitely an attractive proposition, that is not my only criteria, nor would having to supply a few more tiles worry me that much. What do you think?

Ok are we talking architectural designer or interior designer? Architects are more about lines and form and they grumble about the interior designers but that's who they hire to do the color boards. Either way you are the client and it's your house. It may be a great color scheme for the design but if you don't like it change it. Those sample of paint are worth every penny because you need to see more than a little chip. With your asymmetrical design you have room to vary more than the usual field or base color and a contrasting trim. I'd make a tracing of the design and copy a bunch of pages of it to use as a coloring book. (yes use crayolas:-) Another shade from the same shale grey paint chip and a one more accent color would be a good bet. If you are going subtle neutral, make it 3( not 50) shades of grey and play with where you put the darks and lights. Remember sunlight and shadows will create alot of contrast for even a "pale monochrome houses. (the computer rendering doesn't give you that.) You could add a pop a smoky teal, plum or coral if you want color as bold as you design. These would just be accents or trim. If shale grey it a really light silver you could make a monochromatic scheme with blue grays and a navy blue door and trim. The tan/beige in the rendering needs a darker grey to work. I would keep my midtone color on the lower level and a lighter shade on the second level. The top part that pop out could be a bolder accent color withe rest of the upper level almost white. Lot depends on your roof and window frames and whether you want them to blend in or pop out. Try a bunch out on paper or one of the computer programs before choosing any changes.

Thanks Anne and I will look at pale grey given the maintenance considerations. I have already paid for a colour consultant who was great but the Reckless grey she suggested for the house render and basalt gutters/fascia and front wall were too grey when we had the render samples put on and while it had a modern look, it was not giving the beach/coastal feel. I will head back into our inspirations paint store this morning to see if I can find the warm grey colours that have the most similar colour make up to Dune, and go from there. Anne you don't happen to know the dulux colour most close in composition to Colorbond Dune so I know where to start? Thanks again and I would love to hear from anyone who has got a dune roof and hear if they tried light coloured gutters and what render colours they have used on their walls.

Q7) Louise - I live in a small federation single fronted cottage in an inner west suburb of Sydney and would like to freshen the façade to modernise it and improve on the street appeal. Within the next month I am planning on replacing the bullnose awning to one that is flat but angled, paint the exterior of the house and lay tiles in the porch and step areas (carport and planting to soften the façade will come later). The tiles that will be laid in the porch are artisan style ones shown in the pics below, steps will be marble. The house is north facing and I am going for the Hamptons look. I would like to know (a) if you think this colour scheme will work and if there is a better colour scheme that you can please recommend - Dulux tranquil retreat for the exterior, trims will be crisp white, surfmist for the awning and momentum for gutters, (b) should the awning have a corrugated or trimdek profile and (c) the tradie will be removing the timber post and replacing this will aluminium ones white in colour - is aluminium a terrible idea? The houses on the street are a mix of federation, bungalows and modern ones. Some are as-is in pretty much original condition and others freshened up with render and paint in pretty neutral colours.