Hi, I had a Spotted Gum Timber Floor ( 10mm Real Solid Timber Single Planks ) in a penthouse apartment for 8 years . It was pre-coated in high gloss clear from the factory . When it was laid it was necessary to have a noise reduction 3mm foam under layer ( apartments underneath building noise requirement) . This method of installation actually made the floor very quiet and it also made it a little softer to walk over . When it got any scuff marks, they just easily wiped off with a damp cloth. When I sold the penthouse, the floor was in exactly the same condition as the day it was first laid - first class. It was only ever cleaned with a steam cleaner , no chemicals whatsoever . I would certainly recommend the pre-coated polyurethane gloss finish on the real timber planks to anyone, it was great ! You can just see a glimpse of the kitchen floor in the attached two images. Good luck with your specifying . High quality surface finishes normally stand the test of time . I have added a couple of extra images of the penthouse for interest. We did the interior design fit out after buying the shell from the developer. It was a stunning sky home . Cheers LAADP

Hi I am in flooring The floor does not have to be water level you have a allowance of 3mm in 1mt or 6mm it 2mt or 9mm in 3mt get the picture The subfloor does have to be hard and smooth But you CAN NOT put the kitchen on the floating floor, the floating floor needs to be able to expand and contract with a min of 10 mm expansion or 1.5mm for every 1mt so a 10mt long room needs 15 mm expansion gap at ether end. Ask the kitchen supplier if he can leave the kick boards of a put them on are the floor is installed

Hi, If I am understanding this correctly, you want to remove an existing timber floor and substructure, and replace it with a slab that the top of will be approximately 1.2m above ground level. Is this correct? If so, it is possible, but it all depends on your budget. It wouldn't be economical to backfill and then pour a slab. One possibility and the most cost effective way to do it with concrete, would be to build brick piers and use bondek as formwork. If this is the way you want to go, you should engage an engineer to carry out a site inspection and provide you with a structural design. Does it need to be concrete? Kind regards, Steve Kis Scope Building

Inexpensive, speak to Boral timbers who have parquetry line in a variety of timber species at varying price brackets. As for suggestions of vinyl or tile - do it properly and honestly or don't do it. I don't understand the obsession with "looks like wood" when you can use the real thing which gives all the warmth and tactility not available with the alternatives, much like buying forgery furniture from the numerous retailers - save up, buy the real thing, and appreciate it for a lifetime.