Cladding non-mortared/drystack retaining wall?
7 years ago
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Comments (18)I agree with Fiona about the Ficus - they have shocking root systems and should never be used near pools, houses etc. The width of your retaining wall from the photo looks really narrow, so you are going to have trouble growing most things in there; even the Pittosporums will eventually cause structural damage to the walls. The width of any garden bed should be ideally 1.5 metres at least for proper root establishment. This seems to be hard for most people to understand, but the bigger the plant, the wider the root system. So either widen the retaining wall or you will need to keep the plant lower. The pears mentioned also will never work. 5 years is the testing time of a good garden. When first planted they can look great, but they often break down as they grow. The Ficus and Pears' root systems will keep on expanding after the 5 year period with the Ficus having surface roots that cause massive damage to paving, concrete etc. Google it! And I have seen first hand the damage done by another Landscaper's work, based on inexperience. Get professional advice if in doubt - it is worth it if you get a good one. Alison...See MoreHow to overhaul world's ugliest toilet?
Comments (23)Hiya! I would treat this as an opportunity to go totally steampunk! Put in a shutter, like the other folks have said, to hide the off centre window... then paint the bricks, and polish up the pipes and add a bunch of non functional complicated looking piping, with gauges and stuff. Of course, it would depend on the rest of your decor... I would also consider bringing the mortar up to brick-face level, before painting. If you went steampunk, you could keep the floor as is; it would fit right in! Get a sheet of copper or copper-look metal and hammer it up a bit and curve it slightly around the cistern IYKWIM, and hammer up a piece for a lid so you have access, (drop on lid, attach sheet to wall with dynabolts). Then paint up the pan in a nice distressed metal look, and seal with enamel clear lacquer, marine grade. Wooden toilet seat and you're 1800's sci-fi swish. I love odd rooms like this, because it's always going to look strange so you can make it spectacularly odd, instead of, 'oh dear, I tried to hide this, but...'...See MoreHELP! 1980s Rectangular Brick Facade Update
Comments (10)Hi Deb, If this place were mine I would be going for a timeless Australian look to blend with your native and European plant choices that's durable for our climate. I would start with a portico built over the entry in hardwood with a colour bond pitched lined roof trim all the wood in white. Clad the walls with Hardies weather boards or flat planks, building a wide timber trim around the downstairs window to create a feature. I'd go with charcoal walls to compliment the white trim classic colours that will endure time. I'd clad the retaining walls all with a stacker stone tile that resembles old English mortar less stone walls. Some outdoor lights by Barnlighting Autralia are classics. If you want a cheap alternative creeper over the bricks, be aware that all vines will erode the mortar and attract spiders, yet my favourite creeper for this application would be "ficus pemula" it sits really flat and can be trained as a solid wall. Perfect for privacy. You could pave the entry path with "Millboards" wharf style boards so it looks like a beach path, they will never rot or need maintenance, otherwise you can use concrete moulded timber look planks. Some flax grasses to add to the coastal look. As for this upstairs Windows, what was the building designer thinking?.. There's a couple of choices, you can create one way visibility with white shutters inside or out, line the glass with sunblock film or have some exterior screens fitted outside with laser cuts screens, timber etc or replace the windows and create a more balanced frontal feature with higher rectangular windows. This cladding can take to a contemporary look, coastal look, bush style etc. the best feature of this cladding is the additional insulation and uniformity. Have fun...See MoreAdvice on my floor plan
Comments (36)Also, if you are interested in how to use cooling breezes, it's a good idea to look at the Bureau of Meteorology site. There's lots of information here on wind directions & strengths through the seasons. Again, your local conditions may vary somewhat from the BOM site used (MACKAY M.O.), so if you're a local you may have a better idea. The BOM (most commonly) records wind data for its sites at both 9am & 3pm. The data is presented as a wind rose. A description of wind roses, & how to use them, can be found here, http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/wind/wind_rose.shtml The 9am wind rose is shown here, http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/climate/cgi_bin_scripts/windrose_selector.cgi?period=Annual&type=9&location=33119 The most common wind at 9am appears to be from the SSE, & of moderate strength. The 3pm wind rose can be found here, http://www.bom.gov.au/cgi-bin/climate/cgi_bin_scripts/windrose_selector.cgi?period=Annual&type=3&location=33119 The wind is a now SE to ESE, of moderate strength. Unfortunately, these are yearly wind roses, so won't show seasonal variations. If you'd like to investigate seasonal differences, monthly wind roses, for both 9am & 3pm, can be found in pdf format on the following BOM page, http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_033119.shtml...See More- 7 years ago
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