Just to throw another option into the mix – look up Marmoleum for your kitchen floor – it's a modern version of linoleum (not vinyl!). It comes in the most amazing range of colours and looks (about 300 to choose from – from very bright primary colours through all the secondary and tertiary colours, marbled or stripey or plain), has all the green credentials (97% natural components like linseed oil, wood flour, jute etc; nearly 50% recyclable content and 100% biodegradable – it even smells great when it is first laid), extremely hard-wearing, easy to clean and maintain, comes in either sheets, tiles or planks and it is quiet to walk on. It is used in hospitals and schools because of it hygienic characteristics and doesn't give off volatile gases like vinyls. We have put it down in our new kitchen about six months ago and I love it. One of the things I love most is how quiet it is – no clicking, clanking noises as people walk on it. It sweeps clean easily, wipes clean (for spots), mops beautifully every now and then and looks wonderful. Highly recommend it!

Feast Watson kitchen oil is 30-60 % petroleum naphtha. This maybe the reactionary problem. Ok time to fix. Sanding back starting with 120 grit and go through the grades...180, 240,320. Sand with the grain until you feel that all the blemishes are removed. Sounds daunting but the first strike with the sand paper is psychologically the most difficult. I'd stick to the Tung oil base and use Organoil danish oil. Brush on rub off with a clean rag. Let dry, sand back lightly, this time with 400grit and reapply oil and rub off. Let it cure for a couple of days and you should be good to go. Livos Kunos oil is also an option and would only take a 120 grit sand, apply, rub off. Let that dry for a day sand with 320 and reapply and rub off. The only problem is it is an expensive oil.

Hi me me EC Group are a small Australian mill that were previously known as Edwardstown Carpets. They have traditionally made a good product. The carpet you are looking at is a BCF solution dyed nylon. This means that the fibre is a Bulk Continuous Fibre (ie a continuous length) nylon that has had the colour mixed into it while the nylon was still a liquid (and not applied afterwards). It gives it a much greater resistance to staining and soiling (be aware that it has no separate stain treatment) and means that it also resists fading in direct sunlight very well. As far as the durability of it is concerned, the ratings have evolved to a two tier level of Extra Heavy Duty now, being a 5 and a 6 star. Avenue is a 5 star which is reflected in its' light commercial rating. Being a 25oz I would say it would be a good performer for bedrooms and living areas but will tend to flatten down in doorways, stairs or passages. Without knowing the areas intended we would probably suggest also looking at the Stoney River which is similar but a slightly heavier pile weight and a 6 star rating. Being a solution dyed nylon means it also responds well to being steam cleaned which tends to make it 'bloom' again. Cheers

Hi RJ, There seems to be some dangerously incorrect criticism floating about of using area rates to map out the cost for a project in the early stages, however we can use this to highlight to the Houzz community the appropriateness of using area rates to cost your project in the early stages. RJ you have done everything right in using an approximate area rate to map out your project costs before a designer is appointed!! Although there is some merit to note it is helpful to source your area rates from similar projects from the industry at that point in time - which can be obtained from a QS/Cost Planner/architect/designer - at least you are starting to think in realistic budget terms terms. $2K/m2 may/may not reflect what a builder can deliver for a bespoke design - depending of course on whether structure or kitchens / bathrooms are affected (i.e. check out this amazing kitchen / bathroom calculator from realeastate.com.au!! https://www.realestate.com.au/calculators/renovation-calculator/) ........however this is still getting you close to what might end up being the budget or the revised scope of work. The first thing your designer should do - almost before ANY drawings are done - is check your project budget matches your brief/scope of works by using Cost Plan A area rates and an 'Opinion of Probable Cost".. They can also identify if you are touching other parts of the site or scope that need to be taken into account that you may not have realised. At the start of a project, when there is no design yet, only plans with an approximate area scope of works (floor area schedules), it is what is referred to as "Cost Plan A" stage. Refer to this helpful description from the Victorian Department of Health and Human Services; "Due to the very nature of information available, cost plan A is developed in conjunction with floor area schedules and should be based on data gathered from other similar projects, surveys of existing conditions and major project specific issues such as the suitability, age and condition of existing facilities, including upgrade of site services, asbestos removal, topography, heritage issues and so on."....http://www.capital.health.vic.gov.au/Planning_and_evaluation/Cost_plans/Cost_plan_stages/  One of the benefits of using an architect is that we are rigorously trained and registered to provide "Cost Advice", and right from the early stages using area rates. Building designers must provide this advice however are governed by consumer law and not by an Act of Parliament. When your project is at this stage there is clearly no 'Trade Breakdown" as the design hasn't even started yet!! And yet we must guide you as to an appropriate budget to match your scope of works. A responsible architect / building designer will test these area rates with industry-standard costings to identify an appropriate budget right from the beginning, so that we can make adjustments to the scope to ensure we can get excited about what you can really afford to build before the design is finished. Refer also to this helpful article by Choice on "what can go wrong"......but also what can go right when using an architect/building designer; https://www.choice.com.au/home-improvement/building-and-renovating/design-and-trades/articles/architects-designing-to-build-budget I love that you are already excited to begin looking at a shortlist of Pros in the Brisbane area and I wish you Good Luck!