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Renovating Bathrooms

is this waterproofing good enough?

4 years ago

Contractor keeps telling me that this is good, but my understanding is that he should have sealed the seams and nails using mortar and tape instead of caulk, before applying redgard. But he keeps saying that’s unnecessary because he used redgard. Is this right?

First picture is what it looked like before I pointed it out. He tiled over that anyway. I pointed it out again and second and third pictures are his fix ups on where it’s still exposed.

Is this ok??

Featured Answer

PRO

Creative Tile Eastern CT

4 years ago

If Hardibacker was used download their installation instructions. Case closed.

Call Custom to verify Redgaurd can be applied over wallboard not installed in accordance with manufacturers secifications? Nothing else is needed to make your point.

You can also ask why setting mortar was not keyed into substrate prior to setting tile as it states on every bag of thinset mortar sold. 95% coverage is required for a wet area. Just saying:)

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Comments (15)

Cyndy
4 years ago
I would not be happy with caulk sealing the seams between cement board. I always use mesh tape and morter before red guard. What kind of details do you have in your contract?
PRO
Wiltrack Construction And Development Group LLC
4 years ago
It depends what you call good enough? I’ve seen contractors that think the board itself is waterproof and there is no need for a membrane but clearly that is bad mis-information.

The corner and all seams should have been taped with the correct tape for the application. Wether it be fiberglass tape or mesh cement board tape.

Here is a short video showing how membranes are applied. So you can get an idea of a correct installation and prep.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fKykPrcJOoI
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These tradies are cowboys . I have never seen a mess like that in a bath or else where in over 30 years . The bath normally sits on a bed of concrete slurry or if it is a cast iron bath it should be supported by either feet or the hob. The bath should have enough room under the edges to allow the tiles to go under the lip so a proper silicon seal can be applied all the way around the lip of the bath. As for the insulation it is not necessary to have it wrapped in any water proof protection. If the water is getting onto the insulation then you have bigger problems and from the look of the photos this looks like a definite future possibility.I like to put insulation batts all the way around the bath to try to retain the water temperature for as long as possible,not many people do this though ,but the more you insulate things the better. Looking at your photos the pipework connecting the waste is broken off so the hob will need to have atleast one side pulled off or an access hole cut into it to connect the plumbing. I would be getting these plumbers and builders checked out,if the photos are any indication to go by then there would be other areas of faulty workmanship for sure, -sorry to tell you.
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Tile Corrector
4 years ago
NO.

A. You first meet the cement board MFG instructions. Board seem placement, proper screw type for thinset (zinc ), board screw placement/spacing, tape all seems (alkalai resistant tape, thinset all seams & let cure..)

B.Meet Redgard spec and cure times. 2 coats only at proper mil thickness.

Makes one worry about the pan and curb construction.

Stay off the youtube unless its direct form A Manufacturer.
AJCN
4 years ago
Maybe a pro on here could comment on whether the red guard is even good enough. What are the pink blotches, and should they be showing through the red guard?

My contractor said seams must be taped and also sealed (I think he said sealed with mortar or thin set, but can’t remember), and all penetrations such as screw heads must be sealed also. The reason is house movement as well as waterproofing.

You might be be able to pull up the manufacturer’s instructions online if you know the type/brand of board they are using. You could also get the TCNA handbook download, read it and ask the contractor to have a meeting with you to discuss.
User
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Get that guy out of your house. Typical “we don’t need no stinking directions ” kind of guy who ”has done it that away for 30 years”.
AJCN
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Claire, live oak says to get the guy out of your house, but he can sue you if you just up and fire him. You need to buy a TCNA manual and print out the manufactures instructions for the boards he is using. Highlight the parts in the TCNA handbook and instructions that indicate the requirement to tape and seal the boards and anything else he has failed to do. Ask him to tear out the faulty work and re-build it correctly. If he refuses, that is him quitting. If he tries and fails to fix it, then you can fire him. Most states require that you give the contractor a chance to fix. If he refuses to fix or quits, ask for a refund of what you have paid so far.
SA
Original Author
4 years ago
Thank you so much guys! Is this considered giving him a chance to fix it and him refusing to do it? I an quite baffled at this point.
SA
Original Author
4 years ago
Continued...
millworkman
4 years ago
Manufacturers instructions not followed, no warranty. One year is crap, you will never be sure if it is leaking or not. I would ditch him just due to the fact that he will not build the shower to manufacturers iand or TCNA nstructions. The cement board manufacturer will not warranty this, the redguard will not carry a warranty. Period. Stop.
AJCN
4 years ago
Did you buy and read the TCNA handbook? Snuggle in for this good read.
AJCN
4 years ago
Claire, I can’t say whether or not the messages you sent count as “quitting.” But definitely save all messages and put a pause on the work, ask for a meeting. Have a spouse, friend, or neighbor there to support you And take notes.
User
4 years ago
The messages seem to be you firing him, not him quitting. You’re pussyfooting about it, and asking him to fix things, because you can’t cite industry standards. That is Not Good. You are coming off as weak and indecisive and he is coming off as the pro just trying to do the job.
AJCN
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
My TCNA handbook is old, from 2016. It's really not that hard to understand. You can buy an online download for about $35 or $40. Read the shower chapters. It's very repetitive because similar rules are repeated for different types of showers. In many places it clearly states that the gaps between the backer boards are to be "filled with latex-portland cement mortar and 2" alkali-resistant glass fiber mesh tape."

Look, I'm just a homeowner. To me that statement means the boards have to be connected together, and there is tape involved. If you just want to have him finish the job, you can do that, but if you really think he's doing it wrong by not conencting the boards, you can't just pussyfoot around as GD says. If you want to continue arguing with the contractor about it, you need to be able to cite the industry standard. So buy and read the current year's handbook. (Or maybe go to a good tile shop and ask them to let you look at their TCNA book and explain the standard to you; take a picture of the page to show your contractor.)

If you can't cite the standard you don't have anything to argue about with the contractor. Maybe your pro is actually doing everything right and you just can't see it. Ask him if he connected the boards with tape or not. It's a simple question.
geoffrey_b
4 years ago
The reason to tape the seams is if there is a little movement it won't separate like caulk.

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