Noise transmission through floors to units below is a big issue in apartment living. Bodies corporate usually have bylaws that identify permissible flooring materials in buildings. Sound transmits quite well through concrete slabs. Unless the apartment below has effective sound attenuation with a drop ceiling and/or insulation you may cause the unit below some discomfort. Very boring I know....

Timber with timber can work brilliantly, and it's in keeping with the mid century style you want for your home. This room (below) is a little similar to yours, albeit with less of a pitch to the roof - the large feature lighting helps to break up the expanse of timber on the ceiling. You have a lovely open plan area, so I'd be inclined to use rugs to create zones and a cosy feel. Rugs reduce the impact of a large expanse of flooring material. They have the benefit that you can swap things around to change the look and layout at little cost. I think one trick may be to define your "walls" carefully, and paint these before you go with a new floor. This should give you a sense of whether the timber is overwhelming, and how to balance it. E.g. You might decide it works best to paint the kitchen cupboards to white, to give you a more seamless look and work with your new counter tops. If you want to experiment with the "paint ceiling" approach - gulp, it's a big one!! - then maybe that small section above the kitchen bench, at a different angle to the rest of the roof, could be the spot. It seems to have the same horizontal line as the wall, so even if you don't like the painted look for the whole, you might be able to get away with blending this into the walls. Best of luck!

How about trying to get some recycled floorboards to replace the chipboard and have them both sanded and polished and is necessary stained the same before polishing. This would look more authentic and add character and warmth. Hopefully you can find someone who appreciates what you are trying to do and can help source the boards. This would also help you to level the floor as spending a lot of money and still having a wonky floor is not an ideal outcome unless it is part of the character of the property. All the best.

Katrina My strong suggestions PLUMBING DRAINAGE. ONLY a Heel Guard linear grate at the door end SHOWER ROSE ( If you are replacing the ceiling, ceiling-mounted rose) IF NOT replacing the ceiling, with 2100 height of the ceiling ( Rose height ?? ) Discuss with company /plumber ) Rose position, if the shower is 950 + could be in long wall ( However, you will have back to glass when showering, my preference in door wall ) MIXER/DIVERTER, Default to o/head rose. divert to handheld rose, ( Prefer this combination, the majority of combination sets have chromed plastic components, are difficult to clean ( What will they look like 10/15 years? ) FLOOR The new floor must be of cement-based material, fixed as specified CARPENTER ( about $ 2,000, Labour cost ) Plumbing Timber Frame A NECESSITY. All walls must be plumb and straight. New floor, plumbing of walls, cut outs for recessed cabinet, niche, supporting timbers for wall hung vanity may take a carpenter up to four days and if you are moving plumbing he will have to return to fix down flooring days ( WALL LINING Thickness dependent on tile thickness if greater than 15 mm 9mm thick Villaboard is optimum 9 far more expensive to purchase and fix ) VIllaboard, or equivalent cement base product NEVER Water-resistant Gyprock WATERPROOFING Only double waterproofing to us is acceptable! Waterproofing under the tile bed AND on top of the tile bed UNDER FLOOR HEATING Check out kits and ask the Electrician to install ( he/she will be able to give you a quote ) They are not hard to install, however, Electrician needs to rough in GLASS PANEL ONLY 1200, 570+- is OK to enter shower most doors 600 TILING Step down 10/15 mm. floor graded to linear grate at doo end RECESSED CABINET NOT possible for structural reasons to have a 900 w cabinet line up with 900 w vanity. Any other questions, welcome Ken