hi there, yes you can cover slate floors depending on the finish of the floor in question. Slate floors vary depending on the finish and the quality of the slate. The majority of slate floors I have dealt with have come with two major factors to consider: A high quality natural slate floor hand laid will have variations in the floor surface. the only way to properly cover them is to grind them down to an even layer - very very messy. There are a number of high quality materials that are economic that you can use to cover them. The range of new vinyl flooring which looks exact;ly like timber is superb for this type of flooring. I recommend FORMFIT which is a vinyl floor plank that has an inbuilt rubber underlay for sound proofing but is inflexible in nature so that it will not lose its shape and is perfect for existing tiled floors with large grout lines ( you will not see the grout lines with compression) once it is laid. It is also sun-proof and water resistant and can be laid in wet areas (laundries, guest toilets and even bathrooms - so long as there is a hob for the shower recess. The installers will generally do a site visit to guarantee the material is APPROPRIATE for the surface area. So I recommend that you always get a product and installation GUARANTEE. This is the warranty that will ensure the correct material has been installed for the existing surface area. Some slate floors will still require a self leveling concrete after grind down - but again it depends on the variations in the floor. Some Slate floors are perfectly okay to have this material laid straight over it and require no real preparation. Again I always ask for my manufacturer and installer guarantee for every job. The installers will also advise you whether your doors ( if you are using the material in rooms) will need to be skimmed as each plank is approximately 5 - 6mm in thickness. I can highly recommend the new vinyl planks - do not be deterred by the material - the quality that has been developed for this material has surpassed its previous namesake and it is superb underfoot. The thickness of the plank and the engineering of this manufactured product is designed for hard use and wear and tear and is very difficult to scratch - they were originally manufactured for retail flooring surfaces. I have completed over 50 renovations in the last couple of years using this product and can thoroughly recommend it. If you are after a good supplier I am happy to recommend my supplier and installer ( if you are Perth based). Ive had several private emails asking me to further elaborate on this topic so I hope this is clear! Please advise if you need any further information! Happy to Help! Cheers Lorena

Timber with timber can work brilliantly, and it's in keeping with the mid century style you want for your home. This room (below) is a little similar to yours, albeit with less of a pitch to the roof - the large feature lighting helps to break up the expanse of timber on the ceiling. You have a lovely open plan area, so I'd be inclined to use rugs to create zones and a cosy feel. Rugs reduce the impact of a large expanse of flooring material. They have the benefit that you can swap things around to change the look and layout at little cost. I think one trick may be to define your "walls" carefully, and paint these before you go with a new floor. This should give you a sense of whether the timber is overwhelming, and how to balance it. E.g. You might decide it works best to paint the kitchen cupboards to white, to give you a more seamless look and work with your new counter tops. If you want to experiment with the "paint ceiling" approach - gulp, it's a big one!! - then maybe that small section above the kitchen bench, at a different angle to the rest of the roof, could be the spot. It seems to have the same horizontal line as the wall, so even if you don't like the painted look for the whole, you might be able to get away with blending this into the walls. Best of luck!

How about trying to get some recycled floorboards to replace the chipboard and have them both sanded and polished and is necessary stained the same before polishing. This would look more authentic and add character and warmth. Hopefully you can find someone who appreciates what you are trying to do and can help source the boards. This would also help you to level the floor as spending a lot of money and still having a wonky floor is not an ideal outcome unless it is part of the character of the property. All the best.

It just seems a shame to paint over the cedar. Everybody seems to be doing it, but the wood is so beautiful, and in perfect condition. It's the mainstay of the architectural style. We remain open however. At the moment, the kitchen has been removed, and we are leaning towards a lighter laminate floor.