Option 1 is fine but you have no vanity space and these tend to look poky in smaller bathrooms. This is a smaller bathroom, this can be eliminated with say frosted glass walls. But you are changing a bathroom for one that is similar sized, worst case mirror the WC over so it gets some ventilation. Option 2 are you kidding me a full length window in the shower? where is the entry to the master? is it coming off the living room? Option 2 good use of the hall, but the planning of a free standing bath in this small main bathroom will make it appeal smaller is there no shower in this option? If you are going to the expense of making wall changes, what about taking the bath out to the eaves, if you have them which will give you 600 mm more space? If the master is coming off the living room? If the overall internal dimension is 4.2 M and you need say 900 mm for entry to ensuite and 100 mm walls, that leaves you with 3.2 M for ensuite. Looks like you are taking out lots of walls, so to me if you changed the access to the WIR and ensuite to the other side, the vanity can be near the full length window, which solves the water issues of it being in a shower, and it would be nice to be pushed out the 600 mm like the bathroom, and if you were willing to give up say 300 mm of space from the bedroom side, 4.2 x 3.1 than you could have hanging space (which goes into that proposed new access point), on two sides and then a total wall of storage in shelves or drawers or places to put shoes and bags and ties and smalls on the ensuite side.

Hi Kieran, I've spent a fun Sunday playing around with this... thanks for the challenge! Jumping in to post it though, I think my ideas overlap with Siriuskey and Lucia. Isn't it funny how similar solutions can be arrived at independently! Key points: - As far as possible, I've tried to stick with the existing walls. - Since Bed 2 & Bed 3 are quite small already, even though I've encroached into each to achieve separate entries, the impact is minimal, particularly for Bed 3. - I've used pocket doors to both ends of the WIR and to the store room for optimal functionality. - I've depicted Caroma Urbane compact toilet suites with wall concealed cisterns because they save a bit of space and both toilets can use that extra space in that direction. - It's a very stageable design. You may for instance decide to build the ensuite/WIR and reconfigure the bed 2/3 entries without doing any of the kitchen changes. Or you may decide to save the expense and not move the main WC into the existing store, though it does add a fair area to the living space (I've used the exact existing footprint of the store to save cost and demolition pain which is workable with the Caroma Urbane, but alternatively you could demolish and rebuild the wall behind the pan for a more spacious loo). - The Family/Dining area ends up being fairly generous and very flexible. I've added a door to the end of the corridor to screen the loo a bit better from the dining area and for noise separation for the study, but you may prefer to leave this off. - I've not mucked around with your windows, figuring the important thing was to get the concept down for you, except in the ensuite. Really good idea there to have a central mirror with a narrow window to each side to throw light on your face at the mirror. Has the side benefit of a symmetrical effect which is always good aesthetically. - I've also flipped the main bathroom door to relate better to Bed 2/Bed 3, though not strictly necessary. - I originally used the Bed 1 robe space as a big walk-in-pantry, but it didn't relate particularly well to the kitchen and it also left no provision for general storage. Rather than take up a lot of valuable kitchen space with a pantry which would reduce the length of the peninsula breakfast bar (not ideal), I came up with the idea of shallow shelves with a roller shutter which I think you'll find give you an amazing amount of readily accessible storage. I'd like to think it would be possible to source a horizonal roller shutter that would coil back into the dead space at the back of the fridge, but perhaps better to just go with a vertical shutter and avoid the headache!

Hi Renai, there are a couple of things about the kitchen that trouble me. To me in some ways it looks like a hybrid of 1990's kitchens and the current direction design is taking. The L-shaped return looks like it has a breakfast bar, but so does the island bench - a duality that does the kitchen no favours. I would ditch the L- return. This achieves a number of things: 1 - It facilitates better traffic flow between the kitchen and dining room; 2- it eliminates the awkward corner cupboard, always a problem that none of the many high tech "solutions" address adequately; 3 - it simplifies the construction of the kitchen, with potential savings; I would move the island bench up the page (possibly even make it longer), providing a free wall for tall storage cabinets, and or alternative fridge location. The door to the walk in pantry would need to move slightly to best achieve this. The corner location where you have the fridge now is not good for one main reason: you will often need to open fridge doors up wider than 90° to pull out drawers and shelves for cleaning, and even at 90° most modern fridge doors require more space than just the fridge recess allows.

This takes space from both front bedrooms and passage if wanted, as in a small house this is wasted space. Retaining both fire places. With the rear stepping down a Nib wall would open up that space to the kitchen family/living. This also places all living space on the warmer side of the house. The depth of your block suggests a possible sub division with access from the rear laneway or you could one day replace the extension with a bigger area, With any alterations in a Federation house you will need to consider the patterned ceilings cheers