Garden Plants
Hedge your bets If you have the space and like the formal look of old-world parterre and knot gardens, there’s no reason why you can’t continue this grand gardening tradition. Plant your fruit and vegetables in neatly ordered rows and surround taller edibles and fruit trees with rosemary hedges, herb borders or edgings of salad greens.
Set the table If you don’t think you have enough room for a fruit tree in your small outdoor dining area, think again. This ingenious design incorporates both, and with the shade provided by the canopy and the herbs underplanted around the trunk, the alfresco area is ready for service. You could grow almost any tree you desire in this context – the most important thing is to choose one that thrives in your climate zone and gets the necessary amount of sunlight in your courtyard. Imagine reaching up for a fresh avocado and cutting it straight into the salad bowl on the table, or picking a ripe lemon and squeezing it into your glass for a refreshing zing.
Make an entrance In times past, people grew two bay trees at their front entrance: one symbolising peace and the other prosperity. According to legend, these handsome, herbaceous plants would always be slightly different heights because the world has yet to enjoy peace and prosperity at the same time. These slow-growing shrubs, which come in smaller dwarf cultivars, thrive in most conditions except frosty climes and full shade, and you can prune them into almost any shape or topiary you desire. Bay leaves are a welcome addition to soups, stews, pies, sauces and many a savoury dish, so it’s handy to grow your own tree. And once you’ve relished the pungency of fresh bay leaves you may never want to cook with their dried counterparts again.
Supply dinner To encourage and support birdlife in your garden it’s important to offer supplementary food during the autumn and winter months. This is something that is easy to do in a garden of any size. Place your bird feeders or bird table somewhere you can watch and enjoy your feathered visitors from indoors, and make sure you are putting out the correct food. The RSPB in the UK provides comprehensive advice on what foods to put out and when.
Make use of vertical space If ground space is limited, don’t forget about your vertical space. There are plenty of ways to encourage winged and crawling visitors into an urban garden via a vertical wall, and this patchwork insect hotel is a great example of how to utilise a fence with a wall-hung design. You could also transform a fence into a living ‘green wall’, or fashion a simple vertical garden by fixing wall-mounted planters to a wall and filling them with pollen-rich flowers to entice bees and butterflies.
Living room Don’t just eat out, turn the vegie garden into the living room all summer: bring out deckchairs or basket chairs for a spot of post-meal lounging. When the dining table is not in use, decorate it with rows of vintage plant pots, glass hurricane lanterns for candles or pots of herbs for snipping to add to salads.
Interesting facts Peanuts aren’t true nuts, they’re from the pea family (Fabaceae), which gives the plant its name ‘pea-nut’. Strangely, the pods form underground. After the small pea-like flower is fertilised, it turns into a peg that drives itself into the ground. The tip of the peg then turns horizontally and develops into a pod containing the peanut kernels.
How to harvest Peanut plants flower continuously over the growing season, so the underground pods will develop at different times. Look out for the first signs of the plant yellowing. That’s a good indicator that it’s time to harvest. Dig it up, roots and all, then leave the plant, roots up, to dry out in the sun for three or four days. Pick the pods once they are dry, then shell or roast them.
Where to grow This adaptable plant grows best in tropical or subtropical spots, but warm temperate areas with a long growing season are fine too. Peanuts will be happy in most soil types, but prefer a well-drained soil in a sunny and sheltered position with plenty of moisture. How to plant The easiest way to get your hands on peanut seed is to use fresh, raw, unprocessed peanuts (kernels), with the papery skin still intact. Buy these from the health food store. Find a sunny spot in the garden to plant your seed, then prepare the soil (or pot). Plant seeds by hand to a depth of 3-5 centimetres, about a finger-length apart. Cover, then water in well. Mulch around the planting site to prevent weeds, which will compete with the shallow-rooted peanuts for nutrients. They should germinate in a week or two.
Plant at a Glance Common name: Peanut Botanical name: Arachis hypogaea Origin: Northern Argentina Plant type: Herbaceous annual Size: Up to 50 centimetres high and 1 metre wide When to plant: From September to January. In tropical areas, wait until the dry season from April on Time till harvest: 140-155 days from planting Suitable for pots: Yes
Plant Profile: Easy-to-Grow Peanuts Ever wanted to grow your own peanuts for homemade roasted peanut butter? It’s much easier, and quicker, than you think All you need to grow peanuts is a sunny spot in the garden or a large pot on a balcony, raw peanuts from the health food store, soil, water and a bit of patience. Having a peanut plant at home is also great fun for the kids, as the plants are pretty forgiving about overwatering and have a fascinating (and slightly weird) way of growing. Another bonus is the plant’s relatively short growing time compared to true tree nuts, which can be an eight-year wait for pecans and walnuts and more than two years for cashews. By comparison, peanuts take a mere five months from planting to roasting.
Ground covers These low-growing plants need little to no maintenance and are handy helpers when it comes to choking out weeds. Expect to do a little weeding the first year after planting ground covers, and don’t be afraid to choose flowering varieties that change with the seasons. Kidney weed (Dichondra repens), pictured here, is a spreading perennial native to Australia and New Zealand. It can grow in full sun or part shade and works wonderfully as a lawn substitute in areas that don’t get too much traffic.
Manuka Also known as tea tree, manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) is one of the most common native plants in New Zealand and is very adaptable, capable of growing in windy, wet, cold and dry places as well as in clay soils. Fast-growing manuka does best in full sun, its flowers attracting bees, butterflies and birds. There are many wonderful manuka cultivars now available, from prostrate ground covers to small trees that produce red, pink or white flowers. GARDENER’S TIP: Don’t prune back too hard as manuka generally only flowers from new wood.
Gazania A group of perennial and annual ground cover plants, Gazania are often seen in seaside gardens. They revel in windy locations as long as they have plenty of sun and free-draining soil. From summer to autumn they produce masses of flowers in colours that range from cream and white through to yellows, oranges and reds. Gazania need very little maintenance and will sprawl happily over banks and rockeries in windy, hot areas. GARDENER’S TIP: Deadhead regularly to encourage more flowers.
Bottlebrush Another tough Australian native, bottlebrush (Callistemon) will tolerate strong winds as long as they’re not too salt-laden. Soil should be well-drained and it needs plenty of sun to flower well. Birds love the nectar of bottlebrush flowers, which can be white, red, pink or purple depending on the species. Trees range in size from dwarf types to those over 5 metres. GARDENER’S TIP: Prune off seed capsules when flowering finishes to keep plants bushy and encourage more flowers.
Leucospermum Leucospermum, sometimes known as pincushion plant, is a group of South African shrubs that thrives in windy, coastal gardens. It’s a member of the South African Proteaceae family that also includes Protea, Grevillea, Leucadendron and Banksia. All produce stunning flowers which last for long periods, such as those of the Leucospermum hybrid ‘Scarlet Ribbons’ pictured to the right in the image above. This plant is tolerant of long periods of drought, but they do need good drainage and soil that is not too rich in nitrates and phosphates. GARDENER’S TIP: Prune after flowering for shape and avoid feeding.
Echium Echium are known for their distinctive blue, pink and white flower spikes that soar above rosettes of grey-green leaves. Depending on the species, echium can be shrubs or perennials and all come from islands such as Madeira, as well as warmer parts of Europe, Africa and western Asia. They’ve evolved to thrive in hot, rocky windswept places – for example in New Zealand, where they’ve naturalised on the cliffs of Sumner in Christchurch. Some echium are biennial and will only live for two years. GARDENER’S TIP: Echium can be weedy in certain parts of Australia, so check with your local council before planting.
Lomandra This group of Australian grasses have won over gardeners and landscape designers on both sides of the Tasman with their graceful foliage, and their incredibly good performance in wind, sun, drought, part shade and even cold conditions. Unlike some New Zealand grasses, which can struggle in humid conditions, Lomandra thrive in both warm and cool areas with plants retaining their bright colour throughout the year. One of the most commonly grown is Lomandra ‘Tanika’, which has lush green foliage and reaches about 90 centimetres in height with a one-metre spread. However, there are many other cultivars large and small, some with green-blue or bright lime foliage. GARDENER’S TIP: Lomandra rarely look scruffy but if they do, cutting them back to about 15 centimetres (although not in mid-summer) will stimulate new growth.
Rockrose Rockrose (Cistus) hails from southern Europe and north Africa, which gives you a clue as to its toughness. This plant is great for dry banks, rockeries and coastal gardens. It takes salt-laden coastal winds and hot, desert conditions in its stride, rewarding you with masses of delightful flowers throughout spring and summer. Soil should not be overly fertile (don’t overfeed) and fairly dry for rockrose to flourish. GARDENER’S TIP: Rockrose will flower better if kept bushy and compact by pinching out young leaves as plants develop.
California lilac California lilac (Ceanothus) thrives in exposed, sunny, dry, free-draining conditions, just what you’d expect from a plant that grows naturally in the mountains of California. There are many cultivars and species in the Ceanothus genus, all of them tough evergreen shrubs. They’re also tolerant of frost, but give young plants protection from cold and wind while they establish. In spring, California lilac is covered in dense clusters of blue flowers. Shrubs range in size from low ground covers to small trees. Stake taller growing species in exposed situations, as too much movement can damage roots. GARDENER’S TIP: Prune annually to keep compact.
Cater to wildlife Making your garden into a haven for birds and other wildlife will give you a sense of altruism as well as rewarding glimpses of cute creatures. Bird boxes, bat boxes, water features, insect-friendly flowers and areas of long grass all help to encourage a diverse range of fauna and can be easy to add. When you’re spring cleaning your exterior space, keep in mind that log and leaf piles can surprise you by doubling as insect hotels and, as such, should be tackled with caution.
Add an air-purifying plant Not only have plants been proven to enhance air quality, they can also reduce stress and boost wellbeing. A NASA study to find the best plants for cleaning air space facilities revealed some of the most efficient at removing VOCs – aloe (Aloe vera), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), Bamboo palm (Chamaedorea seifritzii) and peace lily (Spathiphyllum) – all of which work beautifully in the bedroom. Be sure to keep the potting mix fresh to avoid growing mould spores, which can aggravate allergies.
Outdoors Don’t forget the garden when you’re playing with scale. This giant urn adds a sculptural element and delights visitors to this gorgeous garden … not to mention creating a focal point that draws our eye down the garden path. TIP: Using giant focal points takes you on a visual journey and allows your eyes to come to rest on a particular point – if you enter a garden and skim over it without anything catching your eye, it needs a standout feature to act as a focal point; it’s just more satisfying.
Plant asparagus Winter is the best time for planting asparagus crowns. The deeper you plant them, the thicker their spears will be when ready to harvest, so dig trenches to around 15 centimetres deep. Asparagus also likes well-drained, fertile soil. Before planting crowns, add plenty of well-rotted manure, seaweed and other organic matter as well as a little lime if your soil is very acidic. The pH should be six to eight, ideally.
Pick winter roses If you’d like some flowers to pick from the garden during winter, consider planting Helleborus, also known as the winter rose. With their delicate blooms in jewel-like colours, these winter roses light up the winter garden and are a favourite with florists for their long life in a vase. Both flowers and foliage are attractive and they’re perfect for shady spots in the garden, particularly in warmer areas. Plant divisions of established Helleborus clumps or sow seed in early spring.
Basic rules for rose pruning: ◦Use clean, sharp tools. Blunt secateurs and loppers can cause ragged cuts that encourage disease. ◦Start by removing old, diseased or spindly stems, then focus on shape. You’re aiming for a vase shape with no crowded, crossing branches in the middle of the plant. ◦Cut above a bud on the outside of the stem, sloping the cut away from the bud so moisture drains away from it.
Finally, Ripper says the garden needs only two maintenance visits per year, involving pruning back, lawn care and fertilising, to keep it in good condition.
Ripper explains that he always tries to select plants for his clients’ gardens based on the following characteristics: that they are sustainable over a long period, are drought tolerant, preferably don’t require irrigation, and are low maintenance. Other equally important considerations for plant selection, however, are the micro-climates he finds on the site, the soil type, drainage, influence of built structures (the house and/or outbuildings), shadows, temperatures, rain and exposure to both sun and wind.
New Zealand flax The architectural form, stunning leaf colours and toughness of flax (Phormium) has made the many cultivars of this New Zealand native hugely popular with gardeners around the world. Flaxes love sunny and windy conditions, and need little maintenance apart from the removal of dead leaves. They vary tremendously in size and habit (weeping or upright), so check plants carefully to make sure you have the right variety for the pot you want to use. TIP: To get the best from potted flax, position containers in a spot with some air movement. And don’t let plants get too wet or dry.
Bromeliads Most bromeliads are epiphytes, meaning they gather moisture and nutrients from the air and rain, not through their roots. Many, such as this giant bromeliad Alcantarea imperialis ‘Rubra’ also have a central urn that traps water and insects to nourish the plant. If growing in a pot, all you need to do is keep the urn full of water and position the bromeliad in a spot that suits – some species prefer more shade than others. Anchor plants firmly in a bed of bark, pumice, gravel or any other free-draining medium inside the pot. TIP: To give bromeliads an extra boost, liquid feed occasionally with a diluted organic or fish-based fertiliser.
Echeveria One of the most eye-catching group of succulents, and therefore popular, is this frilly leaved Echeveria. This group of hybrids comes in an ever-growing range of gorgeous leaf colours and forms. Native to Mexico and nearby areas, echeveria are hardy to mild frost if the potting mix is kept dry. Like most succulents, they don’t do well in very wet conditions, and these ones like a little shade from hot afternoon sun. TIP: In extremely cold areas you need to provide shelter for echeveria, but make sure they still receive plenty of bright light.
Aeonium Succulents are among the toughest plants you can get, with many species doing well in pots. This easy-care succulent for containers is Aeonium (centre foreground), a genus with around 35 different species. Some grow to more than a metre high, while others are stemless and hug the ground. Most have a distinctive rosette form with leaves ranging in colour from light green to the spectacular dark red of Aeonium arboreum ‘Schwarzkopf’. Aeoniums thrive in containers with good drainage, sunny conditions and shelter from frost. They need little maintenance apart from trimming stems that die down after flowering. TIP: Aeoniums grow easily from cuttings. Simply slice off a rosette, leave to dry for a few days, then place in a pot with succulent potting mix.
Poor Knights lily Adapting to the hot, rocky cliffs of the two offshore New Zealand islands where it originates has given the Poor Knights lily (Xeronema callistemon) a unique ability to grow in very dry conditions. This makes it an ideal container plant for sunny decks, courtyards and roof gardens. Potting mix must be very free-draining, pots should not be too large for the plant, and they need to be kept off the ground in winter so they don’t take in water from below. Feed occasionally with a seaweed-based fertiliser, and protect plants from frost. TIP: Poor Knights lily will often flower better when slightly root-bound in pots.
The succulent The century plant (Agaves attenuata, which is more commonly known by its genus, Agave, seem to be everywhere … and for good reason. These all rounders are resilient; they weather the storms, buffer the droughts and make babies like there’s no tomorrow. Agaves are also good-looking plants – their fleshy rosettes make a bold architectural statement. Fashions come and go, but Agaves hold their own as garden favourites.
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