To da_jg_king...This thread is about Stephanie's dilemma and all responses are directed to giving her some suggestions....its grown to be a rather long article and it is unlikely that anyone will respond to your dilemma. Why don't you start a post about your house and put up some really good photos to give Houzzers a "look in"? I bet you will get lots of respnse if Stephanie's post is anything to go by. Its hard to imagine your environment and make alternative suggestions without having photos. Cedar or any timber panelling can be deceptive depending on the area of the room and on the lighting that would change during the day..really need photos! I'm sure Houzzers would love to pitch in with suggestions...some of the ideas given to Stephanie might inspire you too! I love the challenge of natural timber. I've come across and advert for a beautiful new paint colour from the RESENE company..They have some amazing stuff that gets me quite excited imagining what I could do with some of it...You ask for suggestions for flooring that would look good against cedar walls....You do not say whether you want colour suggestions or materials suggestions...so...Go to the RESENE paint site and have a look at all their paint products, you might be inspired by the colours and that could lead you to other ideas...like tiles, floor renders..etc. Lately I've had a "thing" for a definite shade of Wedgewood Blue..( and I don't particularly like blue in my environment), but there's something very appealing about a dusty, light, warm-looking exact BLUE...leaning neither towards green nor purple...a perfect blue that I just love next to my timber walls.....That might be a clue for you...though it would depend, as colour always does, on the natural hue of your timber walls...Wood has its natural colour variations according to its type that also change with age....lots to consider. Put up some PICS! Yes?

Here's what we did to cover a metal fence that surrounded us. We had an ugly (but brand new) Stratco metal fence that borders the rear house, plus down two sides of the house. Everyday that I looked out onto this metal fence from the kitchen window (with the view of the neighbours over the top of this fence) it became more unappealing, the more we dreamt of a vertical garden instead, but we knew that would take time or a lot of expense, and I couldn't wait that long for that fence view to disappear from view. The solution was some wicker fence cladding, we bought it in 1.8m high by 3 metre rolls from Bunnings (big hardware chain in Australia for those OS) for $30 per roll, it came in a variety of sizes, but we needed that to cover our metal fences. You can do this with a brushwood fence, or to create a barrier from the heat of fence to your plants, you can even clad your fence in what my husband calls "blue-board", it's a thin fibreboard, cheap to buy, in almost any size, it can handle any harsh outdoors, & you can render over it in, paint over or colour the render in any colour you like - a light sand or cream colour will look nicer against any green living vertical garden you choose to put in. My husband made a wooden treated-pine frame around each metal fence panel, and screwed the wicker fence covering to it, with a washer so it held on the uneven twigs that formed the wicker cladding. My husband did such a good job of this, we had a small tornado come through our suburb, winds up to 200km/hr -4 of our closest neighbours lost significant parts of their tiled rooves, but all we lost was one of the stratco metal fence panels, but not the twig fence screwed to the frame my husband made! It helped we were nestled with neighbours in rear & front strata subdivided blocks, houses beside & behind us.. but that wicker twig fence covering & the frame did survive our tornado. Here's what we did on the ground - You can see it a little in the photo's above; as ground cover (with some stone you can get delivered or they often loan you a trailer when you buy a load or 2) we had a couple of cubic metres of ord river stone delivered (mixed sizes) brought it out the back by wheelbarrow, laid it over some weed mat on the ground, creating like a dry river bed effect beside the decked paths down the sides that connect the front and back decks. On the far wall behind the cubby and the slow growing variety of bamboo, we planted several cutting of a friends Ivy that was like a green waterfall over her boundry fence. Within a year, with mains watering (on a timer with misted sprinklers for 5mins once a day that does all our potplants and the side & rear gardens too) we had our own green waterfall, we cut it back when it's long green tendrils start growing along the gound towards the house. A fantastic effect that is very hardy, and cost us nothing! We don't have the wicker fence surround down that side of the house as we don't see the ugly metal fence at all now. In the hottest parts of our summer (up to 46-47C degrees), a few of the ivy's leaves get burnt around the edges, but it's easy just to cut these off. We planted a smaller leaf, much slower growing ivy (on the right in the photos) in the ground on the back fence beside the wicker fence surround, and put up some wire horizontal lines for the ivy to grow along. The 2 bottom photo's are taken 1 year apart so you can see how much it's grown. If you put vines in pots, you will limit (or control) their ability to cover your fence. We cut holes in the weed mat, and planted about 4 native violet ground cover plants. The effect is quite beautiful now, in the heat of summer, the native violet wilts when it's thirsty, but always comes back when it's watered and after summer. We've also put several plants in pots along the fence line to create our garden "oasis" out beside the back deck and down the side (creating garden view from each of the bedroom windows as well as from the kitchen window out the back). We cut some lattice & this blocks out the view of the rear neighbours completely, plus with shadecloth backing on the lattice, it also protects the cafe blinds that surround our back patio from sun damage in summer when they are rolled up in summer. So whatever you plant along the fence, you'll need to create a narrow garden bed in the ground for it to grow well from (we bordered our garden beds along the side fence with narrow 25mm wide limestone blocks or perhaps with railway sleepers or you can buy coated tin garden bed border), most plants or creepers will thrive if they room to spread their roots, even if the fence is hot. There is a small leafed creeper (planted in ground), that sticks to the vertical surface, It has completely covered our stone pillars out the front garden, next to our front gate that looks fantastic - Can't recall what it's called though?? It's taken about 5 years to cover the pillar, but we only planted one (wish we'd bought more now, I've looked but can't find any more of it). We put 3 mid sized chinese jasmin's down the side (behind where the first photo was taken), in narrow in-ground garden beds down the other side of the house. It took a couple of years for these to take off and spread out along the fence line (length of our house), but in the beginning of spring this year they were all in bloom and it created a very fragrant as well as visually appealling cover over and through the wicker fence. The horizontal wire helped so we could wind the jasmin along it as it grew for the best coverage. I wouldn't use those barrels as planters for any vines or creepers, just create a narrow garden bed along the fence line (& beef up the soil quality with sheep or other organic fertilizer,) and even some soil wetter or water crytsals thar will hold the water amongst the roots for up to 3 months, helping any young plants make it out of their infancy so they live and thrive. The water crystals do expand into a gel once they absorb water, so make sure they are well mixed into the soil and buried below the surface around the plants roots for their best effect. The barrels would look better painted, with as mldesign0401 suggested, those strappy leafed plants like the Strelizia's (or birds of paradise), or a tree fern in a shady spot. My hubby also put a variety of herb seedlings into one of those half barrels, put some castors on the bottom of the barrel, as a gift for his Mum, and this way she can move her herb garden about, into the sun as it moves from season to season, in & out of the rain, etc, and she loves it!! Don't forget that a good part of the enjoyment of a garden is watching it grow over time, so beware of mass planting and consider what you plant and how much water and sunlight it gets from season to season. Some of the best advice we had, was have a look at what is thriving around your neighbourhood, ask your friends or neighbours for cuttings, don't be afraid to move plants around if they don't like the first spot you put them in, or if they don't look quite right in that spot. We were also quite ruthless with the plants we bought, chopped several into halves and quarters through the potbound roots (the native violet ground cover, the water-plants, several others), before putting them in the ground, so we spent far less that way. Cutting or chopping through the roots with a knife or shovel, cleanly instead of tearing them apart seems to traumatise the plants far less from my experience. We have an Orange Trumpet vine that does very well here in Perth in WA, but as it can handle WA's heat and still thrive, it might be good idea for someone else out there in Houzz reader land.. ,,although, it does take up a lot of real estate when it's completely covered a fence, it needs room or regular haircuts once established. Looks very impressive in bloom though! We have Wisteria along our front wall, we have trained it along the front boundary fences, it's tendrils of new growth need regular haircuts, but even though it prefers horizontal trellis's or an arbour, over a few years, we have succeeded in taming it onto vertical green fencelines. In spring, when the flowers drape like grapes on a vines, it's just gorgeous, even when it's just the green living walls, it's so much nicer to have living walls and to be surrounded in vertical garden (& that's why for me the fences that usually contain us, transform the space to make us feel different about the spaces that surround or contain us). Using lighting will create a different mood & effect after dark, spot lights or those bollard lights at ground level, and if you lay the wiring (or solar if it gets enough sun) when you're making the garden beds, putting in the plants at the same time, you'll be glad you did later on once everything has started to take off. Or you buy enough fairy lights to do the length of the fence line if you have outside power close by or can hide an extension cord somwhere. I love the sharing ideas and the stories side of this site, I need some help with a structure for shading our front deck by the pool; our West Oz summer sun is scorching- I'm sure the houzz community will have some ideas & photo's that will help us...

Hiya, for a no fuss cover my suggestions are: Ivy - would cover the wall completely and also climb the fence. It's super easy to keep neat by using an electric hedge trimmer. Bamboo - get a species that is clumping - not spreading. Species that have black stems against the green leaves would look very striking. Most grow quite tall though and require full sun so you'd need to take this into account. Lilly Pilly's, Murraya's, Photinia's are hardy and great for tall hedges. Certain species grow quite quickly. Want to get some use out of your plants? Consider passionfruit vine. Great fruit, but the wine will lose its leaves in winter. Same with wisteria, ornamental grape, etc. Enjoy, and hope this helps. Cheers, Debs

It's always tough trying to find a hedge that will grow in sun and shade, especially when you want a uniform look. Having said that, it isn't uncommon for designers to use a couple of different species - for example one species to boundary fences with another to the front fence. I'd consider lifting the canopy of the existing trees to let light in for more even growth across the hedge, however I'd still expect it to be a bit uneven due to the varying conditions throughout the garden. Viburnum tinus is a good pick for both a sunny position and a shady position, it will eventually get to 2m height and can be kept as low as 1m. If this isn't large enough, you could also try Portuguese laurel, (Prunus lusitanica) which will get to 4m easily enough. Both of these aren't particularly fast growing, but with adequate water and food they should be good for your situation. Murraya is another one that will tolerate sun and shade, though not frost. You won't get as many flowers in shady positions, and it may look a bit straggly. Your local nursery may be able to advise on what is readily available. When you plant, preparation and ongoing care is going to be important as it look as though you have a few plants that the hedge will have to compete with as it establishes (your neighbours conifers and your pears). Digging a good wide planting hole, plenty of organic matter mixed with the back-fill, as well as regular watering and feeding until the plants get established. Much as the Flower Carpet Roses are tough (especially the original pink), I wouldn't recommend planting roses in anything less than 4 hours of direct sun a day. You'll end up having issues with blackspot and mildew, and they're not going to give you the neat box look that you want. Flower Carpet Roses (Tesselaar Roses) are a good tough rose, however some colours (cultivars) are tougher than others. Pink is one of the best performing varieties, and as suggested, reaches a bit more than the height on the label. That may not be true of all the different colours though. Be careful propagating any of the flower carpet roses, only ever for yourself as they are rigourously protected either with trademark names and/or Plant Breeders Rights, making it illegal to sell the propagated material under the flower carpet name, or at all (in the case of PBR). Good luck!