I would go with white plantation shutters - keeps your architectural look/lines. You can also select the shutters to have two parts in one panel also for the ones down the bottom - so half way have one part (of one so its not two different ones) you can shut completely and the top part you can adjust to still see but with complete privacy in the bottom (you could have in the morning when lying in bed), or you open and shut them around the same amount. I did that in my hall way so that I can completely close the bottom half but the top part of the same shutter I can open slightly for the light etc etc but still have privacy. Shutters give you so many possibilities for privacy, lighting etc depending on the person.

So many questions from my point of view. The furniture all looks a bit squashed. Is it correct that you want a circular kitchen island bench, or do you mean to place stools around an overhanging bench in the kitchen? The raised section near the dining table would have to be removed, or are you planning a new Kitchen? What is happening down the other end beyond the small mat? is this an entrance from a deck or back garden, or does the room venture further? If you are to change your sofas, make sure they are sympathetic with the new chairs and as the chairs look a plain creamy colour, should go with most fabrics or leathers. Due to the room not being over spacious, be careful not to select furniture on the larger scale. Have a look at Jardan furniture and Globe West, both these organisations have great furniture at not too exorbitant dollars. Arthur G steps up the ladder, made in Melbourne. I would prefer you started with the dining furniture, as this is quite cottagy moving forward with your new armchairs. The dresser too - although you could paint this an interesting colour so as not to apologise for it's heritage, again with the new chairs. Hope this assists, but a floor plan would help me.

Bit of a circle thing, the engineer will have trouble commenting on what you plan to do without drawings of the existing and proposed. Never met an engineer who could not work their magic on any structure, but there will be simple and cheaper methods and then there can be some super expensive ones. Builders and engineers should be communicating as well. If i were you, i would have identified a builder, get a good architect to work with you, your budget, the builder and engineer, and town planner if this requires DA approval. Overshadowing is the shadow your structure casts on the neighbors property. Overlooking is when they can see into your property, some councils have means to prevent this and the last to build normally has to screen their windows to prevent overlooking, some require only high windows, not all councils and not all property sizes will be affected. If the architect draws in a 3D package it is a simple matter to show you where the shadows land at any time and day of the year, based on you address. If allowed to build that top story, they can show you if you shade your pool. This is a big investment from you, most likely you would be living with the results for years, i would imagine that you would want the best outcome for your family, and to engage professionals would be the way to achieve those outcomes. Thoughts and ideas from forums like this are great, but sometimes they are not aware of the outcomes of comments which might affect your whole project, and councils around the country all have different requirements. Check and check again. What is allowed in Brisbane with height and upper floor window sizes on smaller blocks, will not be allowed in Melbourne, or Sydney councils. Shadowing while really not an issue in Brisbane, will be a huge issue in Melbourne, so get a local team. Ros

Thanks everyone for your comments so far. Some great points have been made and I'm going to take each one of the away to have a think about. In the meantime, I've asked my draftsman to provide me all the measurements to existing and proposed so I can share it here as soon as I get them. Some more info: We're located in the northern suburbs of Melbourne. Our budget is approximately around the $200k...this is so we don't over capitalise on the property. We thought about building to one boundary because we are of the thinking that we need more width to achieve the space we want. As a guesstimate, I believe the block is 12m or so wide. Each lane way is approximately 1.5m (3m combined) which only leaves us with an internal width of 9m (minus walls). We chose to explore building to the eastern boundary because existing utilities such as hot water system, ducted heating are already setup there. Moving it to the western boundary would cost $$. The eastern laneway has nice new concrete paving and allows us to more easily access it from our carport.The other reason for potentially building to the east is because we're the 2nd last house on the street (near a corner). We get a bit of traffic on our street but more so on the street parallel the western wall. I thought it would be more peaceful moving the house away from the traffic and noise rather than towards it. Also, the addition of the dining area (connected to kitchen and alfresco) will give us a bit more privacy from the street (parallel to western wall) when we're out on the alfresco/deck. Just my thinking but happy to get some further feedback. We're happy to consider keeping the current building boundary if we can achieve the design we want etc. I've attached a few pictures of the existing low ceilings towards the back of the house. The pics show the ceiling from kitchen and towards the back door (curtains are closed). The ceiling is about 2.4m and you can see the exposed beams which makes the ceiling feel even lower. I'm only 1.6m and I can touch them with my finger tips if I try... Whether it's a full knock down or increasing the height of the roof, I think it's the one thing we're about improving/removing. Hope that's some more info for everyone to go off... Thanks again for everyone who has already replied and made some great points. Cheers