If the front of the house is west facing in Queensland and you have glass on that side of the house, in summer in the afternoon the sun beats down on this side for hours, heating up the whole house. There is some speculation on double glazing as some think that they do heat up, better than nothing. Once the sun hits the wall you are lost. These image are for north this is worst for west. A more passive means of cooling the house is to install tall enough thick leaves to the base trees on the western side so that they shade that elevation. Problem with that is that in winter, that sun would be nice. So you need trees that drop their leaves early winter and have them back on say September when the sun starts to heat up. Some trees hold onto their leaves till a few weeks before spring, so make sure you do your research and think root barrier up front to protect your footings. Photo below horizontal external shade screens, Another method is to shade the house with screens, i said house not windows. With western sun, it is low when it starts to clear the roof overhangs, so no amount of horizontal shade devices will make any real difference. The screens for western sun in Queensland must be of a vertical nature. So screens that hang OUTSIDE the house to around say 900 mm off the ground would be fantastic. Since the sun travels around the west from more south west in peak summer to west in winter, vertical blades tend to be ideal solution and should pivot, to deal with this moving sun. In the past, Queenslanders used to have these vertical screens on castors and they moved them around to suit the conditions, for some reason we did not learn from the past. This house the screens are not shading the walls at the bottom so they would still heat up. From the plans i see you are building in brick, so western sun and bricks in summer make an ideal oven. Takes bricks 12 hours to cool down depending on the colour. All material heats up in the sun, but bricks take longer to cool, light weight material which is properly insulated is a better choice and against popular opinion, glass is also a good choice, all better if vertically screened. Double brick tends to keep a house cooler and you might as well use the double brick for structure instead of the decorative nature of cavity brick house, but after a while that heats up and takes forever to cool. Studs hold up the roof, not the face bricks. Ever wonder why the house stands up during construction with stud wall and roof? Photo is vertical blades which pivot. A good landscape architect would be worth a look and they will know how to blend your style of house with the garden. North windows in Queensland even with no overhangs, (which is stupid in Queensland) do not get sun into the rooms, but in winter it might crawl in say 2 M which is nice. What are you doing with the roof and concrete tiles heat up nicely and the darker you make them the hotter they get, Colorbond is a good choice with all the hail we tend to get, or keep a stockpile of tiles for when they break. Colour also makes a difference to heat. Make sure you vent the roof space, whirly birds, and vented eaves or gable ends, make sure you fully insulate the roof and also ceiling, and choose a light colour. choose a style of external screens or trees to fit the house. See if that makes a difference to the report which is there to make your life better and we are talking the cost of air con for the life of the house, the reports are there to help save you money, maybe a bit more up front but worth it in the long running cost of a house. Ros

In my last house, after adding a living room (the area you see this side of the arch) and also updating bathroom etc I couldn't afford to reline the ancient walls in my little lounge (when I removed the purple wallpaper I found a mixmax of boards, gib, pinex, plywood and holes!) so I plastered walls all over with layers and layers of newspaper and wallpaper paste (papier mache), then after applying primer/undercoat I painted with 2 similar colours (rich reds in this case), and stippled the surface with a plastic bag. This made it look just very slightly textured like leather and successfully disguised the uneven surfaces. Gallons of gap filler filled the gaps between the old T&G ceiling boards and evened out the mismatched skirting and scotia. Again white paint on all the trims. Amazing what can be done when you have to make do! This was a great cosy little room! (Before photo is the 3rd one)

Hi Siriuskey, They are timber looking tiles - we absolutely love them. We are considering the same for the new place but potentially herringbone/parquetry arrangement. Much more expensive vs. laminate but easier to clean and no concern in relation to water...

Thanks for all the detailed comments! A few clarifications from me.. We have done the BASIX and so, really, the window size, shape, location is determined. That wasn't clear of me, sorry, I guess I meant we can change the dimensions (within reason) to suit if a "standard size" is cheaper than the size that we have currently, which was rather arbitrary. But this way of thinking might be totally irrelevant! All the windows/doors penetrations are blocked out when they pour the concrete panels, so while we could infill or something if the penetration is too big, we are really trying to get it right now so there are no breaks in the concrete. I think we also did the BASIX with double glazing and Al frames originally (will look it up) but as we are off grid that kind of blew everything else out of the water. We have done all the shadow diagrams and spent a lot of time with placement and eaves. I think that part is OK. I am pretty set on double glazing and thermally broken frames (where aluminium). Thanks Paul for your comment of 10-15%. Our preliminary quote from out builder is certainly not that high (more like 5%) and I was having trouble seeing how we could get everything for that price. I am sure it is possible, and while we are very conscious not to over-capitalise, I don't think the most basic product is a good idea. oklouise, I share your concerns about bifolds! I don't really like them but my partner really wants them and I'm happy to give on that one. I have one quote from CedarWest which seems reasonable, but then it's the same again for an integrated screen!! Will consider other ways of doing that. So! More details: See attached the overall floor plan (floor plan attached twice, sorry!) and views. Great 270deg views (all but west as sort of dug into a hill to avoid the wind). There are 2 pods connected by an open walkway. Ignore the round window - point of contention and may change. The main pod has two large east-facing windows. A thought was gas-lift windows with the large bottom sill to serve as extra seating when open. In the E view, the verandah will not have that many posts so the view is not actually obstructed. Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I think I am just struggling with all the choice, and need to start pining down some constrains that I can work within! Thank you!!