I'm doing a 30" stainless apron sink. Even though it's not the Whitehaven, what I'm doing may help you. I'm using a 30x20 refrigerator cabinet. The doors are 15x20, and I'm planning to convert them to pullouts if the plumbing works out as I'm hoping. We cut away most of the top of the cab and the sink is supported by the three remaining sides. We are mid build.

All Ikea cabinets are modular. They become specialty units only after doors, drawers and panels are added. The sink width matches the box width on a frameless cabinet for a Whitehaven. For example you would need a 30" base cabinet box for a 30" Whitehaven. The door height will depend on whether your sink is the short apron or the tall apron. Download the Whitehaven installation sheet and you will understand.

I have the "short apron" Whitehaven which fits on a standard sink base cabinet - you would want a 30" sink base for the 30" Whitehaven. If you go for the "tall apron" which has a longer apron front, you need the dimensions for a farmhouse sink base.

Since the OP is having the doors provided from elsewhere the short apron /tall apron farmhouse sink base package doesn't apply here. The provider of the doors would match the panel beneath the apron to the doors. Only the width is relevant. IKEA has 30" and 36" base cabinet boxes available. If the OP wants a 33" Whitehaven they need to get the 36" cabinet and narrow it.

Were she/he ordering from doors from IKEA an extra short panel piece to go across the front would be provided along with the correct door size. But she/he isn't. The door maker will work with them on that.

A box is a box is a box. Nothing special about the sink cabinet from IKEA. It's a 30" base cabinet box.

Just made note that you're using Semihandmade doors. Ask them for 2 20" high doors (width needed) and filler pieces with finished edges. Oy!! I coulda saved myself a ton of typing!

Thank you all who have made suggestions - especially Kimmy for the point by point explanation. I'm showing this to my contractor. As recommended by Ikea, I just got the plain 30 wide sink base, ordered the 20" inch doors and asked semihandmade for a finishing piece. I'm getting the 30 inch tall apron. Should work.

Kimmy--I love your kitchen so far and hope mine turns out as well!

Kimmy, so beautiful! Can I ask where you got your knobs and drawer pulls?

Just wanted to say thank you to Kimmy_MA for her description of how she set up her sink because we basically used this post as our guide. We did almost exactly the same thing based on your instructions, except we ended up not using the 5" drawer front because a neighboring cabinet had the same door setup and seems to close just fine along the bottom edge of the cabinet. We used the L brackets provided by Ikea to attach the 10" u-shaped cutout to the cabinet frame.

When we first researched this months ago, this seemed pretty daunting. It surprisingly turned out to be one of the easier projects in our kitchen, and we did almost everything ourselves. The way the sink is designed makes it super easy - it basically slides right in once you get the framing built. I had never even used a jigsaw before, and that was pretty simple as well (although I recommend doing a few practice cuts for the curved part - doesn't have to be perfect anyway since the sink will hide the imperfect cut). We're not finished yet, but here's what ours is looking like.

It looks great! So glad I could be of some help!

"The way the sink is designed makes it super easy - it basically slides right in once you get the framing built."

This is true for the "tall apron" sink as pictured with cabinet doors designed for this application, but if a short apron sink is being retrofitted to a standard sink base cabinet and the top is not being removed, the cabinet front must be removed because the sink bowl is deeper than the cabinet front and can't make it past without its removal and reinstallation.

Just installed the sink as this post describes - Many thanks Kimmy!!

I now have supports that take up the sides of the cabinet interior. I am considering putting a maximera 30" drawer into the 36" cabinet yet still need the 36" fronts to attach. Looking for tricks to drill holes that will connect the fronts to the drawer.

I too want to give a shout out to Kimmy for her detailed instructions. I just installed a whitehaven following them. I will add this the curve for the cutout is 4" so a 4" hole saw on your drill will give you the perfect cut then you can use your circular saw up to the holes on the sides and bottom. I don't own a jig saw so I used the same hole saw that I got to cut my butcher block with a reveal (also 4" obviously).

In addition to Kimmy I want to thank Joseph for recommending Pete's sink mount. I realize most on this thread have already installed using Kohler's instructions but Pete's sink mount makes getting everything in and level super easy and you can adjust up or down with the sink in place unlike Kohler's 2x4 method. This is an FYI for anybody that comes upon this thread later.

Steve - Ikea sells a kit to attach a door to a drawer that has a template to drill the holes. I realize you don't need the hardware but it might be worth it for the template. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00280755/

Can this 33" whitehaven sink be used in a 36" ikea base cabinet with a pull out maximera drawer underneath instead of the 2 doors? We planned to keep 2 recycle bins underneath the sink and it would be nice to pull them out and toss recyclables in rather than open doors. I haven't bought the sink yet so I wanted to be sure. We also plan to go with semihandmade, I have a 20" door and a 10" slab door on my itemized list right now.

You can use a 33" apron sink in a 36" cabinet, but why not get the 36" sink? It will look much better.

hmm... i read that the sink should be a little smaller than the cabinet. I like the idea of some space on the side too because our dishwasher is next to the sink.

will the supports for the apron sink interfere with the pull out drawer at the bottom of the cabinet?

Hi Sarah, you won’t be able to mount a 33” sink in a 36” cabinet Using the setup described here. You’ve got to mount the sink supports directly to the cabinet box. You’d have to double stack the sink supports, which will seriously cut into your available under sink storage.

if you’ve got the space for a 36” sink base, you may as well use the 36” sink. It will certainly simplify things. I’m curious about your statement regarding the dishwasher? I can send you a photo of my setup when I get home. Space isn’t a concern. If it’s an aesthetic thing for you, no worries. A

Because of IKEAs crazy sizing, you could drop down to a 30” drawer base and mount the slides to the framing by adding additional pieces of wood.... hang on a minute....I think I have an idea about how to make the smaller sink AND your drawer work!

I’ll look when I get home. Simple answer to your question is yes, the sink supports as posted WILL impact your ability to use a drawer under the sink, unless you change up the sizes of all three components.

Thank you so much Kimmy, I think I understand what you mean, maybe a 33" base cabinet and a 33" sink would be the best choice if that means the cabinet itself will support the sink properly.

The recycle bins sitting together measure 31" across on top, and on the bottom about 27" total so that should still fit in that size cabinet and I hope be able to sit on the maximera drawer but I will look into that... if needed I could always get smaller bins. I will run this idea by the semihandmade contact, Im hoping they have experience with this since I can't be the first one to ask this question.

What I meant about the dishwasher is I was afraid the apron would be super close to the dishwasher and I thought a little space might look nicer? I've not designed a kitchen before so I thought that was just a safer choice.

Thanks again!