skip to main content

Island update countertop size

6 years ago

We are about to update the cabinet and island countertops. Our existing island is 38"×62". We are replacing the cooktop (36") with a new 36" gas cooktop. Presently, there is 13" on each side, and on the backside of the cooktop. When standing, facing the stove, the refrigerator is 33" from the right side of the counter. I'll replace it with a counter depth French or side-by-side refrigerator, which will add about 3"-6".

I'd like more room on each side of the cooktop. There's barely enough room for ingredients, much less a lid. It would be good to have a little more room for getting food in and out of the refrigerator.

I'm looking 2" on the backside of the countertop to a deeper cooktop. There's plenty of room for traffic on the non-cooking side, and on the left side of the cooktop to expand the size of the counter.

I'm considering 3" on the right side of the stove, 5"-7" on the left side, and 7 on the backside (non-cooking) side. I use the backside to put food that gos in and out of the microwave and oven, and the space, now, is barely adequate. We entertain often and occasionally that side is used for staging when we do buffet style serving.

I am uncomfortable and nervous with what is the ultimate size. Input would be appreciated!

Featured Answer

jhmarie

6 years ago

Is there an area on the perimeter of the kitchen to put the stovetop? A small island (even increased in size) is not a good (or even safe) place for a stovetop and it is very difficult to vent well. Since you are making changes, maybe change the stovetop to a better spot?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (35)

Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
I'm losing about 2 1/2" on the non-cooking side. Spellcheck!
chispa
6 years ago
Are you planning a vent hood over this 36" gas cooktop?
Related Discussions
How can I update while keeping black granite benchtop?
Q
Comments (26)
just viewed your imagined dilemma - the jade colour of doors - are they a laminate - if they aren't - yes if you desperately need a change - have white laminate (like the whole neighbourhood). but if the jade cupboards are definitely laminated I would not replace - for the jade is stunning. Furthermore, you would make a good move to extend the black high-gloss laminate to those floor-level cupboard doors which currently have a wood strip (which the previous owner did (I presume)I would suggest you have a single black strip definitely 2inches high inserted as a line in that area. (this job must be done by an experienced laminator - to perfection (this will eliminate the eye-sore strips of wood.( but it must be applied as a continuous band (from a to b) - not bits - Furthermore, the high-gloss black floor-boards will look good so close - meeting each other. I NOTE YOU WOULD DO WELL WITH A LARGISH SLEEK KITCHEN SINK ( YOU SEE BY DOING THESE SMALL CHANGES YOU ARE GETTING A WHOW KITCHEN. Am I imagining the green which seems to extend to the ceiling line is not cupboards up there if that is so do not take the green up to the cornice - the cupboards are the feature not the walls - the cornice in that room should be taken out - having the plastered wall reaching the ceiling without cornice. Your kitchen cupboards are the feature.(it would be good to paint upper walls and ceiling. Just "off white" I am reluctant to tell you the kitchen window should be wider as the kitchen has a message but the window is like a poor relative. If you carry-out these changes - the kitchen should be free of everything else - no utensils on the stove, nothing on benches or on top of other areas - the colour and impact - that is all that is needed (plus it has become modernised) - despite your belief that white is in - maybe in hospitals. Good Luck
...See More
Kitchen layout breakfast bar v island
Q
Comments (20)
i'm glad you're planning to reroute access to the garage: clumsy traffic pattern change a generous room into a big hallway and can't stop thinking about your kitchen..1. where you have narrow cabinets/shelves in the pantry...it's possible to have built in shelves inside the dividing wall (think about the size of what you want to store: cans, bottles, skinny packets? and put 60cm base cabinets on the other side, next to the freezer 2. i can't see the yellow highlights for stools 3. width of pantry is subject to you wanting to keep the door to the formal living room...if so, measure 150mm past the door opening and that's the minimum width of the pantry but 1500mm allows space to comfortably walk past your freezer and have full size base cabinets with pantry drawers (cleaner than open shelves) 4. space between the b'fast bar and 'fridge should be at least 90cm but if you choose a wide b'fast bar and a big 'fridge a bigger space is preferable (stand a couple of chairs 90cm in front of your current fridge for a few days and see how it feels) direction of fridge door opening is also critical, first for the cooks and then everyone else: if the size of the b'fast bar can be enlarged or reduced with overhanging counter then a change of walkway is not so difficult 5. as suggested by girlguide, the cooktop and rangehood might be better on the outside wall for ventilation 6. there seems to be a lot of small cabinets and drawers in your plan and there could be some better (and cheaper) combinations but when i tried to access IKEA kitchen planner to confirm available sizes it's not responding today 7. i've attached my suggested approximate base cabinet sizes: starting with corners and work outwards, aiming for the biggest standard carcases and then add drawers to suit purpose ..
...See More
Kitchen - what should I paint? Floor tiles, cabinets, counter
Q
Comments (16)
Hi , I did a major repaint of my kitchen when I moved in last year (this is the second time I've done this in a home). From salmon pink doors and tiles with plastic pink handles, it has transformed into quite a lovely kitchen with crisp white benchtops and doors, retro aqua blue splashback tiles and chrome hardware. I didn't paint the floor tiles because it is not a good idea, it won't last. And I think in your case, the kitchen floor will not look as bad when you take care of the cabinetry and countertops (and appliances - don't forget the sink, this made a huge difference to my kitchen which had a horrible stained "white" fibreglass sink and plain tap). The only regret I have is that I was convinced instore by a staff member to use water-based enamel on the countertops and this was not a good idea as it marks and stains at a feather's touch and I am always scrubbing it with magic erasers to bring it back to white. Just use oil-based enamel, preferably gloss, and it will clean up beautifully. It will just yellow in about 5 years' time, which isn't an issue if you're not using crisp white like me. Step 1: remove all handles etc. and sand back the melamine/formica surfaces and vacuum up all dust. Wipe down all surfaces with methylated spirits to remove any other dirt and - especially - oils. Step 2: Undercoat all surfaces with White Knight Grip Lock Primer (keep this stuff on hand, it is magic and can be used for a million things). Give it two coats preferably. Step 3: Paint doors and cabinetry with a good quality high gloss acryclic. You can use oil-based enamel too, but it's easier to work with acrylic. It doesn't really scratch unless the cat tries to jump up above the cabinets and claw its way back down when it misses - in other words, don't run knives or screwdrivers down the doors and they'll be good. If it scratches, get a small artists brush and touch up with your leftover paint in the tins. It takes two seconds and is as easy as to do. Step 4: paint the countertops with an oil-based enamel. Clean up with turps. Do two coats and use a good quality brush. Give it a good few days to dry, a week is good if you have the time as it hardens in this time and becomes very strong - so put your camping gear and laundry sink to good use during this time! Step 5: put on new handles and hardware, install new sink and appliances and enjoy the makeover. For the tile splashback, follow the same steps, making sure you give them a good sand. You can use gloss acrylic here too. It will scratch if you knock it with a sharp object, but again, keep the touch up paints and a small artists brush handy. In your case, because the splashback doesn't go all the way up, I'd also consider chiselling the tiles out out and using a panelled splashback from somewhere like Ikea or Bunnings or a store that orders Laminex panels. They can be pretty cheap, and although not perfectly beautiful are a lot more attractive than those tiles. If you can save the tiles (the tile glue is probably old and brittle) and sell them, someone will love them on ebay! And even re-tiling with some cheap/chuck out tiles isn't difficult or expensive in that space if you are at all handy. Splashbacks in burnt orange or red would blend with the cream and floors. Other alternatives for the countertop (particularly if you don't want to patch up the gaps from the older, larger stovetops and sink) is to put in an Ikea or Bunnings (or similar) cheaper benchtop. I have also tiled a benchtop before and this worked really well with the added benefit of being able to put hot pots straight onto the benchtop. Don't use low end wall tiles. Use a stronger tile so they don't crack. Again, with your oh so brown floors, if you stick to lighter colours for the cabinetry (eg. antique white or cream) and a more sandstone-ish colour for the benchtops (or match the cabinet colour to the benchtop so you don't have to paint it and set off with the coloured splashback), the floors won't look as bad. Also, you can put a floor runner along the length of the kitchen hallway (in front of the oven/fridge area) if everyone in the house is generally steady on their feet and don't tend to trip over everything and this will break up the brown beautifully and you will barely notice the tiles. All in all, it cost me about $200 for the paint and equipment plus handles, sink and big shower tap, but it has meant that I am delaying my kitchen reno for a number of years, as I really like the kitchen now and everyone comments on how great it looks. None of this is hard to do. As a female, I have no problems doing all this myself as long as I have the time from work. But my father was a painter for 40 years, so that's why I can get the scoop on the best paints etc. to use on these projects. Good luck! PS: Don't let anyone tell you to whack some fancy paint on the doors and it will be done in a jiffy - it will peel off. Sand and grip lock prime - this is essential if you want it to look good longer than a couple of months.
...See More
update lounge room
Q
Comments (24)
Thanks Siriuskey, now trying to convince husband to sell couches, which were my choice in the first place, and get a dark grey fabric chaise like attached which I think may open up layout but not sure how to fit that and maybe a chair for extra seating.. We used to have couch on wall to left of entry but it was too far removed from tv and other people. Can’t really move tv. I don’t want book cases and I hate dusting so don’t have much to display. Still thinking about whether to put a desk in lounge permanently as my son wants me to ditch the desk in kitchen in favour of more storage and I want to keep the study to myself. Might add a new dilemma on that soon. I might also add I don’t like any of the rugs I posted
...See More
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
Sadly, there isn't a better place. We have large windows, and a brick wall that is chimney. There is, now, and we are replacing a downdraft vent that's on the island.
jhmarie
6 years ago
Perhaps the replacement of the wall oven and that area with a range - just throwing the thought out. Since I can't see the whole kitchen, I can't really advise and that would require some carpentry to make it work. If you post a few pictures of the whole space, there are some really good kitchen people here that might be able to help even if you must keep the stovetop in the island.
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
We are installing new downdraft vent, replacing the one there. If you look closely you can see the vent top.
biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
6 years ago
How wide are the aisles surrounding the island currently? If you could draw a rough sketch of the entire kitchen with measurements that would be helpful.
Buehl
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Could we see the entire Kitchen? To be honest, that cooktop in that island would drive me to remodel to get rid of it at almost any cost!

What you don't want to do is make your aisles so narrow that now it becomes a hazard to walk by the island while the cooktop is in use. (Billowing steam & smoke, splattering grease, etc., that a downdraft cannot easily/adequately capture and expel.)
PRO
Falk Designs, LLC
6 years ago
Why go through the expense of running a gas line when induction cooking is a
far more efficient, effective and safer way to cook. ..not to mention better looking! Also, the downdraft vent will pull the flames on the gas burners and will create scorching hot spots on you cookware. I've seen it happen many times first hand when a client chose downdraft over a traditional ceiling island hood.

I renovated my own kitchen, and put in two induction hobs, with only one 20k BTU gas wok hob. I choose to use the induction burners more than 9 out of 10 times when I cook....snd I cook A LOT! They are far faster to heat the pans evenly, and FAR more responsive and consistent when turning down to simmer. I put in the wok gas burner as a back up in the case of loss of power. After the run of storms we have had over the last few years, it was worth it to me to have both sources. 12 days no power after Sandy was NOT fun. Also the glass cooktop is sleeker, safer and will be way easier to maintain! If you have a gas grill outside, it's kind of a no-brainer, if you don't have the room to split like I did.

Induction is safer in that it will only function with high ferrous content materials. Very difficult to inadvertently turn on by a kind or animal. I just heard of a fire that was started because a dog turned on a burner on a stove when jumping up to try to get meal remnants when a pizza box was left on a stove top.
remodeling1840
6 years ago
I always laugh when people insist a cooktop on an island isn’t safe because people will be walking past it. Does nobody walk past the cooktop if it is on a perimeter wall?
remodeling1840
6 years ago
Angela, what size do you want for the island? If smaller, use masking tape on your existing island to set your parameters and try to cook for a few days staying within the lines. If bigger, bring in something like a piece of furniture or a cardboard mock-up to extend visually to the new size to check the traffic flow.
threelittlelights13ny7a
6 years ago
Congratulations on the new countertops!! I know there are not a lot of cooktop in island fans here on gardenweb, but I love mine so don’t be discouraged if a full remodel isn’t in the cards right now! But I have also cooked on an island that is too small and it’s frustrating!!

As mentioned above, definitely look into induction. It is very responsive and totally different to cook on than electric. Aesthetically, it’s a much more intergrated look appropriate for an island and so easy to clean. A cooktop on a perimeter is often a focal point, so gas burners and a fancy hood add to the look. On an island with a telescoping downdraft, everything should be designed to blend in with the countertop.

Also, consider going with a 30” cooktop. Having the extra 6” of counter space would serve you well. It’s hard to utilize extra burners if you don’t have the counter space for ingredients and plates!!

I don’t want to offer layout suggestions without seeing the whole space, but you need to add more counter space than you are considering to make this island function properly.
cluelessincolorado
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I think the induction advice is sound, even though I like using gas. Is there a possibility of extending the counter more to the left of the cooktop? A supported 15-18" overhang would give needed square footage and landing area.
cpartist
6 years ago
Please post your current floor plan. Sometimes when we've lived with something for a long time, we can't see the forest for the trees and can't see how there might be a better layout.

Also agree about the induction.
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
Walk around space is generous. This is a roomy eat in kitchen. The gas is in the island - though I did consider induction. We loose power enough, we prefer having the cooktop.

Great idea of taping!

Here's photos for more information.
biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
6 years ago
Are you doing a full remodel, or countertops only? If you're doing a full remodel, your layout can definitely be improved!
threelittlelights13ny7a
6 years ago
I understand this is not a full remodel, so I don’t want to go too crazy, but do you have flooring under the island? If so, I would scrap the island completely and make a peninsula where the bakers rack is to create a u. Its hard to say without measurements, but it looks like you would get a longer run of counterspace for your cooktop and it still has good workflow from the sink.

Otherwise, that island has to get a lot longer to be a comfortable workspace!!
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
My concern is getting most useful counter space. In the photos I'm posting now, you'll observe that the island doesn't "line up" with other cabk nets, walls, etc.

There's room on the left side of the island for additional counter space, as our recycle bins live there. I'm considering extending the left side by 7", giving me 20" on that end.

I just don't want to end up with something that looks awkward or unbalanced.
Hillside House
6 years ago
Regardless of what else you end up doing, I would not extend the countertop on the right side toward the fridge at all. 36” is a really tight walkway there.
threelittlelights13ny7a
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
If you go with induction then the cooktop will be flat to the counter and the symmetry will be much less of an issue than with a gas cooktop that will divide the surface. Regardless of aesthetics, one side with a larger space to work and a narrower space for landing on the other side would function better than two undersized areas on either side of the cooktop. For function, the larger counter space should be the side closer to the sink, but either way you will appreciate those extra inches once they’re there!!

Hillside house has a good point for the refrigerator walkway. It’s already tight, so you would probably really feel the inches lost there.

Do you have measurements? They would be very helpful :)
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
We aren't changing cabinets because they're in excellent condition, though from the 1980's.

The dining area is all about the view, thus all the large windows.

We ARE going with a gas cooktop. I did research induction and am going gas. The gas cooktop is low profile, and will be gorgeous.

I believe I'll get an increase of 3"- 6" when we update the refrigerator. I could leave that end unchanged, but am tempted to increase it by 3". I can't add it later.

Attached is a photo with my scribbled dimensions.
cluelessincolorado
6 years ago
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
Island to table is 63"

Since the waste bins will always be there, I think I can extend to counter over them, at least partially.
javiwa
6 years ago
OP: Be sure your larger trashcan lid, when popped open, can actually clear the area underneath your anticipated overhang. At one point in our reno, we were going to do a similar island top extension (so the bin could be tucked underneath), but vertical space didn't allow. Good luck!
biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
6 years ago
Instead of adding overhang on the fridge side, is it possible to move the new cooktop down a bit toward the other end of the island when you replace it? It would no longer be centered on the cabinet part of the island, but might make the new overhang section look a bit less unbalanced?
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
I don't like the idea of imbalance either, but it would mean rebuilding the island. After all the back and forth, my mind is re-imagining the island. Not sure where to go to get a new island, but it would solve many issues. Just wasn't in the budget. However, it's not to late to entertain the idea. Thanks!
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
In an comment reply above, there will be a new downdraft vent. We will be utilizing the existing vent and remote fan.
lisa_a
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Wow, I feel your pain! I had an island about the same size with a 30" cook top in it. I bitched and moaned about having only 16" on each side of it. I can't imagine having less than that.

I was fortunate, though, that we had the flexibility to move the cook top from the island to the perimeter. I have 42" of counter on one side and 22" on the other. Is it heaven? You betcha! And my island is a beautiful empty space, great for prep and setting out drinks and appies for parties.

An aisle of 63" between island and table is generous. I think you can extend the island towards the table by adding an 18" cabinet at the end. That would give you 32" of counter on one side (1" counter overhang). Make that a trash pull--out cabinet and you can get rid of your free standing trash can.

Reface the island cabinets - darker stain or painted finish - so that new blends with old.

btw, we went from gas to induction. No regrets. But we don't lose power regularly so that isn't a worry for us.

My apologies if I missed a detail. My eyes are tired and I read through kinda quickly.

Oops, we were cross posting so I missed the bit about you not liking asymmetry. A new island would fix things. You'd end up with about 22" of counter on each side of the cook top.
Angela
Original Author
6 years ago
Lisa_a, thanks for comment. I did think about adding a cabinet at the dining end to get the waste bins out of the design (ha!). We just got the gas to the island, and mentioning a electric cooktop kind of fizzled. LOL

We have to do interior modification for the gas cooktop as is. The new cooktop needs additional 2". So much to consider! Thanks, again.
lisa_a
6 years ago
You're welcome!

As a fellow island-too-small-for-cooktop sufferer, I encourage you to go for it and get a larger island. Life is so much better when you're not knocking spices and cut-up veggies off the island counter. =)
wilson853
6 years ago
A friend recently did a mini reno with similar colored cabinets and layout. She kept her perimeter cabinets and enlarged her island substantially by eliminating her kitchen table. She had a local cabinet shop make new island cabinets in a gray stain and added a MW, pull out trash, drawer storage and seating to the island. If you could do that, I would then move the refrigerator into the hutch space to give you both landing and prep space to the left of the cooktop.
Buehl
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
"Does nobody walk past the cooktop if it is on a perimeter wall?"

No, they don't b/c there's a wall behind it! In addition, perimeter cooktops/ranges on the end of a perimeter run usually have plenty of safety margin/buffer b/w them and the end of the counter.

The island in question here also has no real workspace around it. It has maybe enough for emergency landing space, but that's it!
Buehl
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I would extend the counter to cover at least where you waste bins are...even if you have to replace them. Maybe get cabinets just for that location and put your trash bins in the new cabinet.

If there's no seating on the island, then I think 48" should be plenty b/w the island and the table.

Also, if you have 63" b/w the back of the island counter and the
perimeter counters, you could extend the counter a bit in the back...are
the cabinets on the back the full 24" deep?

Regarding moving the cooktop, I wouldn't lessen the amount of space on either side. With your changes, keep what little buffer you have on the one side and add the extra space on the other side to make the cooktop location more functional overall -- as well as add usable workspace next the cooktop. Hopefully, you can get at least 36" on the one side w/o sacrificing any space on the other side.

ETA:

This what I would do if I were in your situation:

(1 ) Extend the island length toward the table, not the refrigerator

(2) Move the cooktop towards the table until there is around 18" b/w the edge of the counter and the cootkop.

(3) This will accomplish two things:

.......(a) Put the workspace where it's most useful -- b/w the refrigerator and cooktop and near the sink

.......(b) Move the cooktop away from the DW so there's no conflict for floor space while someone is prepping & cooking and no danger of backing into an open DW door when taking a pot of boiling water off the cooktop to dump in the sink.
cookncarpenter
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I've never quite grasped the argument "cooking is only 10% of your time spent in the kitchen" Maybe it's how I cook, or what I cook, but I would say my time spent in the kitchen is divided pretty much equally between prep, cooking, and clean up. Other than a stir fry, I can't think of too much else that takes considerably more prep time than cook time?

Maybe I'm just a fast prepper, ...or a slow cook ;)

Also, I've been cooking at a peninsula (albeit with a raised counter behind) for over 30 years (and raised two kids and a dog) without any safety issues or mishaps.
cluelessincolorado
6 years ago

Sponsored