We are in the same situation as yourself. We ended up doing 2.5m basement, 3m ground floor and 2.7m top floor with .3m in between the floors as we also had height restrictions on what we could build. We are also building with slope to our land. Our basement has garages, games room and a bedroom in it and we felt that 2.5 worked. Hope this helps.

You should also consider thermal efficiency and your views. Even double-glazed windows transmit heat. Your house doesn't seem to have many eaves. If you have the taller windows on your side facing walls will it mean you just get a better view of the neighbours roof and your side fence? Will they get a better view into your side facing windows? Don't just consider how it looks from the inside, but think about the whole house from the outside as well - including views, privacy, and extra heat gain in summer, and heat loss in winter, plus all of those extra window furnishings. If you are getting custom made window furnishings then there will be extra cost in materials and labour. If you are buying standard off the-shelf window coverings then there is much less range available at 2700mm heights for full length windows. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls

There are so many variables and ways to build things. Building succesfully is very much working well in three dimensions and understanding the structure, and the waterproofing required in three dimensions. Your question suggest that you are only thinking in terms of heights and brick courses, but there are lots of other things happening that would suggest that you get a section of the house and post it with dimensions. Most building professionals work in millimetrres rather than brick coursing. So converting your dimensions to millimetres - 28 courses is 2400mm, which is the minimum height for a habitable room ceiling. Six courses of brickwork is 514mm for the window opening, however your glazed area will be less than this due to the width of the window frame. Your 3 courses of brickwork which is 257mm should be enough for most steel lintels, unless you have a really wide opening for a window? You also need to allow for flashing if the clerestorey is above another roof running into the same wall - if this is the case you may need the full 47 courses. I would be asking your designers why they need 47 courses, as it is a lot higher, and there may be problems with setback issues? Is it a flashing issue? Is it a window opening width and lintel issue. I am afraid you haven't really supplied enough information or images to explain about the clerestorey window so it is impossible to answer precisely. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls and Dr Retro Virtual Visist

Is there a particular reason you want to lower the alfresco height ? If I had to make a choice , I'd almost prefer to go for 2.7 indoors , 3 metre alfresco , because thats where you want that open feeling , the luxury of space and height , moreso in in an alfresco . As far as being noticed , the only time it wouldn't be too noticable ( IMO ) is if the alfresco floor was lower than the house level -- if you step 'outside' through a standard or sliding door , and the roof feels lower , I suspect you would notice it . That , afterall , is why you go for a 3 metre inside height , to feel open and spacious .