@turner3477 YIKES! You already had the "aged look" and a very unique timber cabinet. wherever did you get it? I still think this trend of "paint it black or paint it black and white or paint it white is a psychological dilemma where people don't know how to use colour or are scared of it...or are afraid that they will not be "en trend" and keep up with the "Joneses". Don't mean to insult anyone's sensibilities but its how it looks and feels to me...everything old and genuine and beautiful being veneered to look trendy and plasticky. I'd be delighted to find a timber cabinet like that one as opposed to the the painted white version....and if I was at all tempted to investigate the white one to see what it was made of, my first instinct would be to have a feel and a scratch of that lovely decorative carved frieze above the benchtop....to see if it were made of a plastic mould and just stuck on. Sad to say this but what you have made of this cabinet is "what I call " fashionable fake". One redeeming feature though, whether it has any significance for you at this point in time is that at least under the paint, you know you have a genuine, solid timber cabinet that would have been worth something one day and maybe still will be when somebody, 30 yrs from now, recognises it for what it is and lovingly restores its genuine identity rather than mistaking it for junk and throwing it out to be replaced by the next lot of stage scenery. Wonder what the next "fashionable fake" will be made of when people have forgotten what solid timber and craftsmanship is? Don't know where you live....but would you like to sell me that cabinet at all ? I'd give it the life it deserves and I am sure you could find another one that would look every bit what you want to achieve in your space..(.In fact I could knock up a pretty good imitation replacement myself...not that I'd want it). I like watching` those antique shows in Britian where people bring old wares to be appraised and where antique dealers enter people's homes to buy collectables. It is on these programs that one learns the true value of the timeless pieces...some of which seem like old junk...but what surprises when what looks like junk turns out to be worth investing in! Apart from the above...enjoy your pristine French Provencale dream!

With a bit of work, I've managed to find a supplier used by our builder who has stock of the original vanity and basin!

Hello Christine Can you quickly photograph all the finishes, eg floor/wall tiels and the colour of the white stone vanity top. Without seeing the actual shades of colour it is a little bit of a shot in the dark. However, reading that you have a pearl white stone vanity top, I would be inclined to NOT have a white vanity, unless you are confident that the two whites work well together. The clue to the choice of the woodgrain is finding a woodgrain with a touch of the colour of the mud tiles, and/or the creamy eggshell tile on the other walls. In this way, you will create a link between the different finishes and textures. The white benchtop will tie in with the white of the WC, handbasin etc. I hope this helps. Take a big breath! Donna White Interior Design - Classic Design with a Twist

I just finished our new ensuite, which has a 1600mm vanity. I have 4 lighting circuits (switches): 1. 2 x downlights for the main bathroom in a similar place to you. 2. Another 2 x downlights ( 1 over each sink) 250mm off the wall (vanity is 500mm deep so halfway between person and mirror). 3. Extractor Fan / Heat Lamp and 4. Strip light under vanity for late night trips. The downlights are dimmable so you can have the main bathroom in a medium light and then you can choose how much to crank your vanity lights. The idea is that the light should shine onto your face hence they are installed in front of the person and they are on a gimble so they can be tilted to point at your face. I think you are in Australia so I can tell you they are the Domus Aqua Tilt 13 and are fully sealed (ip65) so no issue having over your shower, etc. They are also very bright as the light bounces off the white tiles, so really they are only needed when applying makeup. It's hard to know exactly where your lighting needs to go when you just have plans in front of you, but you could always get your electrician to wire both for wall sconces and downlights and then when you are further along you can choose whether to cut downlights or have wall lights. (Remember to take pictures and measurements of the wire locations before they close in the walls / ceiling!) If you try downlights first, it's also a lot easier to change your mind (i.e patch a ceiling) than wall lights as that usually means drilling through tiles..