Hello everyone, I'm back. As they never did answer my email, I went to the Melbourne supplier's shop and discovered that, although I do like Kerlite, it is VERY expensive. They gave me the phone number of their tiler, I phoned him, he was going to come out to give me a quote, but never did come. In the end, I didn't chase him, because he did tell me on the phone how much he charges per meter to lay them. :-) Looks like I'll be going with the suggestion of Dytecture and replace just the kitchen area tiles. Now I have a new question. I had a few people out here and am getting contradictory advice. Some say I should strip the existing kitchen, lay the tiles, THEN put the kitchen on top of the tiles ._They_ say it would look better, less cutting of tiles needed, so no patchwork near the cupboards and also the cupboards would be on "higher ground" in case of a flood. The other camp tells me that doing it this way would make the job take a lot longer, and it is better for the cupboards to "sit" below the tiles, sort of a reinforcement and the difference in the look would hardly be noticeable. _They_ say that the people advising laying the tiles first are just being lazy - it is just easier for them. Of course, I would also need more tiles if I put them under the cupboards as well, so there would be added expense as well. While, getting it done as quickly as possible is definitely an attractive proposition, that is not my only criteria, nor would having to supply a few more tiles worry me that much. What do you think?

Ok are we talking architectural designer or interior designer? Architects are more about lines and form and they grumble about the interior designers but that's who they hire to do the color boards. Either way you are the client and it's your house. It may be a great color scheme for the design but if you don't like it change it. Those sample of paint are worth every penny because you need to see more than a little chip. With your asymmetrical design you have room to vary more than the usual field or base color and a contrasting trim. I'd make a tracing of the design and copy a bunch of pages of it to use as a coloring book. (yes use crayolas:-) Another shade from the same shale grey paint chip and a one more accent color would be a good bet. If you are going subtle neutral, make it 3( not 50) shades of grey and play with where you put the darks and lights. Remember sunlight and shadows will create alot of contrast for even a "pale monochrome houses. (the computer rendering doesn't give you that.) You could add a pop a smoky teal, plum or coral if you want color as bold as you design. These would just be accents or trim. If shale grey it a really light silver you could make a monochromatic scheme with blue grays and a navy blue door and trim. The tan/beige in the rendering needs a darker grey to work. I would keep my midtone color on the lower level and a lighter shade on the second level. The top part that pop out could be a bolder accent color withe rest of the upper level almost white. Lot depends on your roof and window frames and whether you want them to blend in or pop out. Try a bunch out on paper or one of the computer programs before choosing any changes.

Can I suggest looking into having a quantity surveyor assess your property (and you can claim the cost of having this done). They will provide a depreciation schedule for you which will tell you how much each item will depreciate in value over the maximum number of years you can claim. If an item is at the end of its depreciable life, they will tell you what you are able to replace. Even if you only have tenants for a short while, you are able to claim depreciation for a pro-rata period that your asset is income producing. What all this means for you in terms of design - there may be ways to improve the look of your property in line with what you will want it to look like when you eventually move in, which could gain you a tax benefit. Of course, you have to have the $$ to spend on it in the first place. Oh - and in terms of furniture - do you know about Casey Auctions in Hallam? they are close by and you may pick up some really good bargains. I know we did!

anaewlo - did all this just over 12 months ago so know how valuable an extra pair or eyes and a clearer head can help. The "little" things are the ones so easily missed and the ones that make you ask "what was I thinking" or "how did I miss that". You could take the tiles up higher immediately behind the hotplates, the range hood would then tie it all together and you could even have some nice artwork each side of it. The only concern I have - are the 2 tiles in the second row centred over your hotplates? Fine if they are as you will have that high part nice and even. If not, I'd a have good think about it. Otherwise, assuming you will paint the walls in a semi gloss paint, the lower tiles will take the brunt of the oil and what goes on the walls will be pretty easy to wash off, it is just a matter of wiping it down after each cooking session. There are times to match things up and there are times to blend. With your downlights, keep to white (assuming you will paint your ceilings white). this way they tend to disappear into the ceiling