Well here we are yet again! I've not changed my opinion. The toilet-loo-privy- whatever one wants to call it needs a room of its own. Makes no sense to me having a "privacy wall" behind which to hide the pedestall if it is placed in a shower or full bathroom...the locked bathroom door is all that's needed. Seems to me that the concept of a separate toilet room or "Powder Room" (Why that title is anyone's guess)...was a sensible and accepted concept of homes in the 50's. It wasn't in need of any "polite" title, it was simply referred to as "The Toilet"..meaning basically -".where to freshen up". My idea of a perfectly sensible toilet is a separate little room housing the pedestal (toilet bowl) and a little basin with running water. Optional- a paper hand towel dispenser or one of those blowers...or a small towel rack and/or a nook for toilet paper...mabye to accomodate wet wipes in the absence of a basin or even where there's a basin....a nice comfy little Toilet Room..

Removing the flow restrictor wont help, as the knuckles in the modern shower head set-ups are too small and wont allow sufficient volume of GF hot water through. Best detach the old rose head from the pipe/knuckle set-up, throw it away and then find a rose head that you can adapt to the old knuckle /pipe set-up. It's what I did when I reno'd my bathroom and every thing works fine - good flow with good temp. Plus, you can also buy pressure equalising washers for the cold tap which will give you even more control balancing the hot and cold water.

The process of designing the home that you plan to retire and grow old gracefully in can be a daunting and overwhelming one. Putting a little more effort and investment in at the initial design stages can save you time and money in the long run. With a few clever products that you may not even be aware exist, and a couple of important fore-thoughts you can rest assured that whatever may happen in the future, your retirement home is up to the job without looking institutionalised. Floorplan, Site & General inclusions Consider a single level home on a relatively flat block. The less level changes required the better. If you are purchasing an existing home and find this situation is too rare or outside your budget, look for homes that have living spaces and at least one bedroom and bathroom on the ground floor. If staircases are unavoidable ensure they are wide enough to accommodate a stair lift in the future (a minimum 820mm). Windows sills should be low enough that visibility out is possible from a seated position. Windows should be easy to open, close and lock. All doorways and entryways should be 820mm wide at a minimum with halls and thoroughfares 1000mm wide. This includes either side of the bed for access in and out. Undercover access from the parking area to the house is important to avoid slip hazards. If building a new home, plan for additional framework (nogging) as required in areas where you would later install grab rails. That is, by any steps, next to the toilet and in the shower area (see more under bathroom). Consider touch operated electrical switches or the larger style switches. Switchplates should be in a contrasting colour to the wall. Door Hardware Keys can be painful and difficult for older people and pin numbers can easily be forgotten. Fingerprint scanning door security is a good option if you can make the investment. If not an option, ensure any locks and opening devices can be utilised easily with one hand, avoid the kind where you need to turn the key while at the same time operating the lever. Ensure all door hardware is of the lever variety and all include safety release latches on privacy locks (or go without privacy locks). Knobs will become difficult to grasp and turn in later life. Landscaping Consider fencing that doesn't impede visibility from a seated position, enabling a person to sit and watch the world go buy and not feel too enclosed. Planting should be relatively low maintenance. Avoid planting a lot of trees that require annual pruning and consider native plants that do not require daily watering but attract wildlife to your garden that you can enjoy watching. Install sensor lighting to outdoor areas and all entryways. An accessible outdoor area with raised garden beds is also a good consideration to enable people with limited mobility to still enjoy time outdoors. Kitchen Your kitchen should be well lit with task lighting over working areas. There should be adequate space around working areas with good flow between functions. The benchtop and cupboards should contrast in colour to assist with visual impairment. You may like to consider including a benchtop at a lower level with leg space underneath in the case of future wheelchair access. This can act as an island dining table while not required for seated accessibility. A drawer that you can convert into a pull out work bench is an alternative. Power switches should be in a contrasting colour to the back splash. Ensure you include plenty of storage space in the base cabinets with drawers being a preference for ease of access. Overhead storage will be difficult to access in later life. Handles should be of the pull variety rather than knobs. Consider internal cupboard lighting for visibility. Appliances should have simplistic, visual cues, be easy to operate and be clearly identifiable as 'on' or 'off'. Bathroom The bathroom is usually the one area where the greatest amount of re-thinking is required. What is traditionally kept small and private now needs to consider accessibility and assistance. Bathrooms should be large enough to be able to move freely with a mobility aid and leg room under basins may be something you like to consider in case of wheelchair access. Separate toilet rooms need to be large enough to allow for grab rails, or toilet chair and a wheel chair or walking frame. They also need to be large enough that a person can be assisted. The ideal size would be 1000mm wide by 2000mm long. If this is not achievable with your current floor plan you may consider installing a toilet in the main bathroom area, which may mean foregoing or removal of a bath tub. Additional framework (nogging) should be planned along the wall next to the toilet and on the rear and one side wall of the shower enclosure to incorporate grab rails at a later date. These should be located on either side of stud 800 - 810mm from floor level. The shower should be hobless, with no track or step that could cause a trip hazard and be large enough for wheelchair, frame or shower chair access (around 1200mm square is optimum with 900mm at minimum). Ensure the door, taps and shower head is positioned in a way that can be comfortably utilised by an assistant. The shower head should be on a rail to allow height adjustment and include a removeable handpiece on a flexible hose. Install flickmixer style taps for ease of operation. Temperature control is an important safety consideration when designing for old age. You do not want the chance of accidental scalding if the tap is bumped or operated incorrectly. Thermostatic mixing valves allow you to set the temperature of the water in your house or bathroom from a central point however they usually come with a high price tag. A much more affordable and simplistic option is to choose tapware that is fitted with an adjustable cartridge. This simple device allows you to limit the maximum temperature of an outlet by simply preventing the handle from turning passed a predetermined point (for more on this feature watch this video from Dorf tapware). Bathroom tile choice should take vision into consideration. An all white bathroom is not a good option for old age. As most sanitary fixtures are white, wall and floor tiles should be in a contrasting colour, as well as contrasting to each other (around a 30% contrast is optimal). See my post here for examples and inspiration. Decor Floor coverings should be easy to clean and maintain and have a good slip rating. The colour should be in a contrasting tone to the walls. Doors should also be painted in a contrasting colour for aiding visual impairment and dementia care. Window furnishings should be easy to operate, remote operated blinds and curtains are available and a good consideration if you can afford the additional investment. Ensure bookcases and freestanding furniture is secured to the wall to prevent toppling over in the case of someone grabbing it for stability. If this still seems overwhelming for you then we are here to help. Billy Hoo Studio offers interior design consultations Australia-wide via our online service with a designer experienced both professionally and personally in design for accessibility, assisted living, dementia care and over 50's living. Please get in touch to talk further about how we can help. To see full article click here

Hello, we'll be moving into our almost completed new-build home at Jervis Bay (NSW South Coast) in about two weeks. Our intention is that this will be the 'forever' house, so we researched the Livable Housing Design Guidelines pretty carefully, aiming to design, as much as possible, for aging in place. Our end result is at the photos below. There's wide access, with no lip and shower space itself is huge at 1235mm x almost 2500mm. The tiled 'seat' is 465mm tall and 435mm deep, and the 'wedge' in the corner is 300mm above FFL. The heavy-duty grab rails are definitely strong enough and sufficiently solidly mounted that an adult leaning weight on to them won't be a problem. We made sure that the shower mixer is accessible from outside the wet area, to allow a future carer to control shower without getting wet, if needed. The 50mm set-down visible in two of the photos will be filled with 20mm river stones, and will feature a few tall-ish potted plants that should thrive with the humidity of the shower, and the light through the tall glazed door. The double-glazed tilt/turn door includes integrated Venetian blinds, which can be adjusted to restrict the view inwards from the adjacent first fairway of the golf course behind! While we're not in the house yet, we're pretty happy! Good luck with your design.