Hi. We were just discussing same option on the weekend. Our solution was......make up a timber frame to cover door ( like a false free standing wall) insulate with batts to reduce heat/ cold/ noise if required and then just gyprock over. You could actually do two false walls so if at a later date you wish to remove just half for whatever reason, it would be easier. These walls could even be on sold at a later date as there is def a demand for similar fit out. For the single door, you could always put cupboards under and then build them in by creating a false bulkhead to hide the roll or move one of the cupboards and construct a built in media cabinet with bulkhead once again to hide the roll. Hope this helps. ☑️

Make sure existing structure is strong enough. Make sure the balcony surface is waterproofed properly. Most importantly check local council regulations. Privacy and overlooking neighbours is a major one.

Thank you MB, Initially when the building surveyor requested the above I went back to him and broke it down as follow: Height Ceiling height will be greater than 2.1m. The finished floor level (FFL) is the existing slab. Exterior earth levels will be excavated to ensure they fall below FFL, however, decking will need to be flush level with interior FFL. Fire Rating Existing garage is single brick consisting of standard brick size with a minimum 110mm thickness and less than 30% coring. Moisture/Waterproofing Brick will be sealed using a waterproof membrane or waterproof paint to reduce the likelihood of rising damp. The addition of a stud wall will house the electrics and insulation then finished with plasterboard and paint. If there is no evidence of the slab containing a waterproof membrane beneath. Then will waterproof the slab using one of the many commercial products available for this purpose. This can be rolled or brushed on and will prevent moisture entering the room from the ground up. Termite I’ve been advised by Termite solutions Melbourne (ABN 41617175416) that treating the perimeter of the existing slab is sufficient to meet Part A of the requirements. Since then, he came back to me last night and responded with the following: Please provide specific detail as to how the existing garage is going to be converted to a habitable room. It seems most, if not all, compliance will be achieved by way of "Performance Solutions" as opposed to compliance with the deemed-to-satisfy provisions of the Building Code of Australia. A report from an appropriately qualified and registered consultant must be obtained for each Performance Solution. Things to consider include: - Moisture proofing and damp proof course of the floor/slab? Think of a new build, it would have moisture barrier under the slab, rebate in the slab for the brick to sit in, then a damp proof course in the brickwork, cavity, sisalation, flashing, weep holes etc. - Provide compliant heights from the FFL to outside (150mm to soil, 50mm to concrete). - Confirm fire rating details of the existing brickwork (min. 110mm thick and max. 30% coring of bricks). - How is termite protection being achieved? Need to consider new penetrations in the slab as well as the perimeter of the slab. Thank you,

What rooms are on the northern side of the house? You’ll make more use of outdoor seating if it is easily accessible from inside, and you have the right aspect for a passive solar design. Carefully plan a pergola to allow winter sun but block summer heat, and add a deciduous climber to assist.