@kymryan..just having another look at your cladded house...Why do you want to remove the white cladding.? Apart from looking into recladding with colourbond as an option...or anything else....I think you might be wise to make sure of exactly what is under the present cladding...if you have not done that already. As cloudpants here says, your place has loads of potential and I am sure you would want it to be timeless so all you have to do is the maintenance. You mentioned that there are weatherboards under the cladding on your house. Do you know that for sure? Usually when they clad old weatherboard places the weatherboards are removed first because they cannot just be c;lad over. Check! Underneath your cladding you might have what I think was called ' wide chamferboards' or even a narrower kind used about 1950-60. These were PINE and the reason for cladding was usually because they were weather-worn or rotted. It might even be that there are no "boards" of any kind under that cladding...maybe fibro or cement sheeting.....or, if you are lucky...the house framework...onto which you can put any exterior cladding. I'd advise you to check this if you have not done so already. The tiles on the roof suggest to me that the original outside of the house may have been these pine boards or even the cement sheeting...but I think the former. I do not think that there would be the older style hardwood weatherboards under that cladding...the house is of the wrong era for those....it would need to be much older.. Another option...some of the really old weatherboard houses around here (in country Queensland) have been rendered using a very old system...All of these houses were on wooden stumps. Before they started they stabilised the stumps as I have described and then built in all around the sides of the underneath with bricks. They covered the house with insulating foil or tar paper then they covered that with chicken wire netting!!! Over that they simply applied a cement mixture and they trowelled it leaving swirls...a bit like the Mexican adobe. Then they painred it. Its a very old technique. It is materials cheap and labour intensive. If the old house on stumps inderneath shifts a little there's no problems with cracking of any kind....due to the cement, hand applied "render" having the (chicken) wire reinforcing bonded throughout with the cement. The finished house looks as if it is built of stone or concrete! ..The insulating properties are great. Its a very old system that lasts the test of time....the early Italians brought it in when this area was opened up for orchards, There's an old weatherboard house just opposite mine that was "rendered" in this manner about 50 years ago and it still looks new.....been pained occasionally of course. Recently its had a verandah added in keeping with the style of the house and they've "prettied up" the facade under the roof with some ornamenral work. You could research that I am sure...you might even find out "How To".

analyze first, then plan My analysis from your photo, is that you have a not very inviting front entrance area, and I would have to walk down your driveway to reach it, or park in the drive and block your cars entering or leaving. But you have asked us to comment on two problems that you have identified. A wish to double your garage, and a desire to improve the curb appeal from within your neighborhood. It appears that the simple solution, dollarwise, would be to just extend the garage roof to the left to add another bay. And, to improve the entrance area, remove that porch railing in order to bring guests in, away from the vehicles, and put up a wall, or at least a lath screen on the right side of the garage, but a wall will block odors and heat from the autos as well. Move the water hose from the front to behind the fence or into the garage. To my eye, the white wood at the front porch looks DIY, homemade, unprofessional, and the white paint draws our eye to it first, so find a darker color, please. Is there a wall between the house and the street? I would like you to have your guests park on the street and meander toward the house on a pedestrian path, perhaps from the side of the nice plant bed we see. A further enhancement to the curb view, would be a pleasant pair of outdoor chairs and a small table, in front of the brickwork, an arrival terrace for you to have morning coffee with your neighbor, or to make such an appearance of generosity. The entrance path could be directed there and then over to the entry porch. If you win the Lottery, I suggest you build a new garage up at street level at your property line, and use the present carport area as an entrance terrace for your daughters to entertain their friends, with plants beyond and screening the rear of the garage. Good luck

i think you need at least 900mm to mount a rail wide enough to hang a good sized towel a problem with the ladder towel rails is that they also project out from the wall and are very easy to walk into..i've had great success hanging a hand towel from the side of my vanity with an overhead/light heater/fan, openable window and an old fashioned free standing towel rail for the bath towels..looks great and the towels are always dry

Can you draw up a sketch, showing the length of the shower recess/layout of bathroom, as well as the width details. It's a bit hard to tell the size of the area with the photo posted. But, my initial thoughts are to agree with having a solid screen the same width as basin, then pivot door from that point. But 535mm is tight for opening.