That is a hard one with those tiles. I would have to think if you did a white, it would kind of work with the colour of your tiles. At the end of the day, they do need to be replaces, but as you said, due to budgeting reasons, you cannot, I can pass on this photo of a nice bathroom with those tiles for you though for inspiration... : )

Hi again Kathleen. Just wondering what is presently dividing your shower recess and toilet? Found the attached photo which may help throw a different perspective - forget a wall. The worst of the splash will be in the alcove and if you have the shower rose on a rail, this does minimise splashing, as you could turn it away from the toilet. The rose is also height adjustable to also reduce splash. I would still put a glass door at the end of the solid wall though, to divide the two areas, create some privacy and it will make the shower cosier in winter. You say you have retired and appear to be looking at this as your forever home, then this would give you good options if the worst happened and one of you became partially immobile. It creates a large area for a shower chair to be used and room for a carer to assist. Horrible thought I know, but sadly one doesn't know what the future will bring. Will even make toilet access easier - down the track you may even need to fit a commode over the toilet. There are taller toilets now too, great for wonky knees. The only issue would be keeping toilet paper dry, but I think the alcove will assist with that. The more open area will also make cleaning a lot easier. With respect to a wall hung vanity, they are lovely, but they are also more expensive to install and I don't know how easy it would be on a cement wall. Putting the bowl on top of the bench space, does give you more drawer space, a recessed bowl will take up most of the top drawer. There are many different sized bowels these days, so it is easy to keep it to a basic size to give you vanity bench space or alternatively, you can generally off-set the bowl to create a larger space on one side. With respect to the bench top - I think any shiny surface needs constant care to keep it looking great, it all shows water marks and spills, but with just the two of you, it should not be difficult to wipe it after each use. I keep an absorbent cloth beside my vanity for this purpose and there is never any BIG clean. I have to laugh at the black vanity top - one of my joeys had black marble on her kitchen bench that was flecked with gold. I never got used to it - I was always "cleaning" the "crumbs" off the bench top. You can also use a painted glass for a bench top if you really like the reflective look of glass - similar to what is used for kitchen splashbacks now. With the age of your unit and the concrete walls, I think I would be inclined to leave the door where it is, you would have no idea what could be in that wall. You could however, simply remove the door to open the vanity area to the hallway and then put a towel rail on the wall beside the vanity. I agree with Pazz on a corner storage unit if you need storage, it won't intrude at all into the area, anything else could be a nuisance. [houzz=]

Basic rules should always be considered when making these types of decision. North facing windows are the preferred option for passive solar design. Yes you may need to adjust a few things but if you can place your glazing to the north it is best. A vanity and mirror should always face the entrance to the room. That's why it's called a vanity, because it appeals to your vanity, makes the room feel bigger and presents much better than a toilet or shower. Mirrors should have artificial lighting at eye /face level so the light reflects off your face into the mirror and back into your eyes. High level lighting gives you a Herman Munster look around the eyes etc. Daniel Lindahl has done well with the placement of the vanity and mirror. Could you move Danniels vanity forward 1.0 m and tuck the WC and a shower back to back in behind the vanity. It might be tight but it would hide the shower and toilet. We have done this in larger ensuites and it works very well. You will need a minimum of 3.3m to achieve this.

I don’t think that you achieving your goals of a smart use of spaces. If designing for wheelchair access, the bathrooms are not big enough. There is a very good standard on space requirement for wheelchairs. it is gold level of https://dfat.gov.au/about-us/publications/Documents/accessibility-design-guide.pdf Are you working with an architect? Wheelchair access is tricking as one has to think in navigating in a full circle spin. Doorways need to be 900-1000. Bathrooms need to be wet rooms rather than the conventional. There are some great architects in the Wide Bay Area, who will design function over form and at a manageable cost. It may be worthwhile investigating.