ALL new floor timber where 1/3 of the flooring timber doesnt match
I have just had a new Blackbutt timber floor and after the coatings were applied you could obviously see that the 1st Pallet of timber that was put down is different from the remaining 2 pallets
The company that supplied the timber has admitted that there was 6 months difference in the timber batches between 1st pallet and remaining 2 pallets. I am furious as the floor looks awful. I have spent nearly $350 K on a renovation and the floor was supposed to be the show piece of the works. Now I have to hide the difference with furniture and rugs or sand it back an attempt to stain the lighter color 1/3rd of the floor. The floor has cost me $16K...wonder what my rights are with this...The company that supplied the timber is a well known supplier. The picture does not do the difference in color justice..it looks a lot worse ! When the floor was being put down there was no difference in the appearance of the unpolished timber...I actually wanted and liked the light color as that is why I bought the Australiana Blackbutt. It has been suggested to me by a professional that one is SELECT grade and the other STANDARD which makes sense because the darker timber has more natural faults. This has REALLY upset me (already had High BP and now finding it harder to control) This has all happened at then end of a long and expensive renovation ...really really down about the result
Comments (10)
Kate
4 years ago
Glenn Thomas
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Orange Pre-War Timber Floors
Comments (4)Staining timber floor boards in an attempt to colour match existing timber floors can be a little tricky. From the photo, the timber floor looks like the very commonly used hoop pine. If we are staining down random floor boards we generally apply a clear finish to the board for the first coat. Then the stains will be added to the finish for the second coat and the third coat will be the clear finish. To match the pine colour we will use Feast Watson stain proof Golden Oak, Walnut and Jarrah stains. Getting the right tone of colour will take some experimentation. If you are using new timber for the replacement board, take into consideration that the timber will naturally darken over time under the stain. Take a look at our Floor Sanding and Polishing Blog. Enter Staining in the search for some more information. Hope this helps. All the best. http://budgetfloorsanding.com.au/...See MoreMatching floor levels for transition areas - tiles/timber
Comments (2)Depends on budget. Many dwellings (probably majority actually) don't setdown the floor structure to end up with a flat floor throughout. It costs extra money to achieve for something that is to most people un-noticable. High quality dwellings do this all the time however. If you're going to that level of detail you should also look at setting down the floor edge where the sliding/stacking/bifold doors are (if you have them) so that the door sill is flush. This something you'll see continuously more often than the bathroom/ens floors. It was mentioned on 'The Block' recently and I've now had numerous clients asking about it and/or presuming that this how all floors are done....See MoreDirection of timber flooring dillema
Comments (5)I mean WOW Joanne, what a view! I think no-one will be worried about the board direction, honestly, their eyes will be feasting on the horizon!! Obviously this is your personal decision at the end of the day, and the more I look at this design dilemma the more I think both options would work. However I would keep the boards the same dimension throughout. Imagine entering at the front door and moving down the corridor space into the living room - you want a seamless flow as the eyes look towards the outside, and once in the room you won't mind at all the direction of the boards. I assume you are selecting a tile for the alfresco terrace - just match the direction of the boards and you can't go wrong! The link below is from the TonguenGroove website, showing a project with a corner aspect to a water-facing deck with fully glazed doors - so both conditions! They both work, right?! The main orientation IS long boards parallel to the water though.....also attached a photo of a Nicholas Murray project from Mafi website with short boards across the hall......looks good.... Good Luck! ..http://www.tonguengrooveflooring.com.au/projects/ventnor-beach-house/....See MoreShould I choose concrete- or timber-look floor tiles?
Comments (23)I will be the loan naysayer and go: Vinyl Plank timber pattern tiles. I did these in my kitchen and they helped make the room. Used Karndean, but any European brand should be fine (avoid American and assume they are using American or worse if they don't say the country of origin). http://www.karndean.com/en-au/floors/landing-pages/new-looselay-longboard?gclid=CjwKCAjwspHaBRBFEiwA0eM3kQ7eEFPH5FlK2IwV3o7ZsbbmJ19srG0OM_tWK5dhPMNyDdwxGPUr4BoCoYcQAvD_BwE Caveats: Ground must be FLAT. 100% flat, ruler FLAT. If not you will have to level. If flat, you can lay them yourself. Our floor had to be levelled and it was tough. still got a few high patches and gaps because of that. However I have done it on a concrete surface myself since and it's beautiful. Benefits: Nice and soft on the foot. (less ankle pain) single tile replacement. Looks fantastic. No PVC glue fume issues and fairly resilient. Do be wary though of metal chair legs scraping the floor. Waterproof! when installed right with no gaps! (why I would choose them in a kitchen over timber or Eeek carpet!.... Yes previous owner installed shagpile carpet in the kitchen)....See More
Caroline
4 years agoGlenn Thomas
4 years agodreamer
4 years agodreamer
4 years agoGlenn Thomas
4 years ago
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