Where is north in this photo? It looks to me as though the area in question is fairly shaded so a lot of the above options wont work if the area is on the southern side of the home, especially because of the winter shade. The space gets afternoon sun - in summer or winter? There are shadows from trees - are these deciduous or evergreen? Clay can vary enormously from being plasticine like to clay with rocks or stones in it. This will have an enormous bearing on the plants that you can use, precluding plants like westringias that require very good drainage. A plant that is as tough as old boots that will grow in both sun and shade [with some sunlight during the day] is Buxus microphylla var japonica varieties, while Aucuba japonica [Gold dust plant] or even some of the native lomandra grasses would work well. The first two can be grown as a hedge with the latter choosing a variety that you like [ there are so many], but have the plants all the same - don't mix them up. These will all grow in some shade, will grow in clay as well if it isn't too poorly drained. It does appear as though the area is sloping ever so slightly away from the house which is good. But I would steer clear of paving - unless its needed for access etc, it will look patchy and pointless - use plants instead to make your picture - its far more sustainable. Alison

After staring at your pics a few times I think I've figured out what's bothering me. The garden bed sticks forward. If you need it for the size of plants in the ground it might work but if you're only going to have pots you can line the edge up with the wall of the house I think? What is the depth of the garden bed? Colour and placement of the pots. The pots look terracotta and the brickwork looks more reddish, is that right? It doesn't look like it goes together. Maybe you can use those pots somewhere else where they aren't right beside the brickwork and get some pots for that location which are either darker and match the trims of the house or are lighter and contrast with the house more. I think the pots need to somehow relate to the windows. If that room could use some privacy or shade you could put two pots in front of the windows. If you want to preserve the view out then you could put three pots against the brickwork. The mulch. It looks too low for the edging. (What is the edging?) The colour, like with the pots, doesn't look like it goes with the rest. I'd go black pebbles or something light in a similar hue to the stone foundation feature. Or maybe scoria?

If you are planning to move in a few years, leave the decision whether to paint the bricks to the next owner - they may not wish to have the regular job of re-painting! The awnings , as already mentioned, may be there for a very good reason - wait until mid summer before you decide to ditch them totally, it would be good to get them working properly again to get the sunshine into the house in winter . Central West NSW is a hard place for plants - hot and dry in summer, frosty in winter. Chinese Star Jasmine is an excellent choice along the side fence, but will need watering when young, especially if that fence is exposed to sunlight the whole day in summer. It will grow and become quite heavy, make sure the fence is up to it. You could plant some deciduous trees in the front lawn to give shade in summer to those front windows - crepe myrtles are tough enough, Chinese pistachios are good - anything will need watering to establish, but once they are growing well you can gradually toughen them up by decreasing the watering; the deciduous trees will lose their leaves in winter and still let the sunlight come pouring in to the house. Grass will struggle under their branches once the trees start to spread, so plan to create garden beds underneath them early on. You could underplant with bulbs - tulips will love the cold winter, daffodils and jonquils will love the winter sunshine when the leaves are bare. You will need to know the path of the sun in midsummer and in midwinter to work out the best position for trees, so take pictures of where the sunlight and shadows fall in the different seasons to refer back to when planting. Roses also love a hot dry climate, but you may not wish to get involved with rose pruning and thorns etc! Talk to your local nursery person, they will be able to give you good local advice and recommendations - if you have an idea of what you need the front to do that will help - do you need lawn for kids , are you happy to kiss the lawn goodbye etc. Wander around your neighbourhood in the different seasons, and if you see something that catches your eye, either talk to the house owner or take a picture and visit the nursery again! Most people are thrilled to be asked questions about their garden, and will prove to be mines of useful information. See if there are any open gardens open to the public in spring / summer - these are often really spectacular, and the grand country gardens are wonderful for ideas , which can be modified for a smaller area and budget.

Less is best when it comes to plant care and maintenance. I would not put anything in the urn. you could consider plugging it with silicon, and having it as a bird bath. I am yet to understand why everyone thinks it is good design to put plants in urns of this shape. The urn makes the statement through simplicity, so why put plants in it? The Raphiolepis will get fairly wide for the spot around the plinth and urn so that you wont get much flowering and will need repeated trimming. And the Viburnum tinus is far too big. I would wait and let the Raphiolepis eventually join up, without adding any extra plants. It looks tidy as it is in th ed meantime.