Building to a Budget: How Tiles, Flooring and Paint Can Add Up
Before you choose a designer tap or feature wall, think how it will affect the budget and consider these 12 alternatives
Dominic Bagnato
12 June 2017
Houzz Australia Contributor. Director at Bagnato Architects. I have a passion for architecture and building, and I love creating spaces that are well planned and simple, using natural materials to create warmth and luxury.
Houzz Australia Contributor. Director at Bagnato Architects. I have a passion for... More
For anyone set to embark on a new build or renovation, budget is likely to be top of mind. While it’s no secret that big-ticket items for the exterior of a build can blow up costs in an instant, many people tend to forget that the fixtures and finishes you choose for the interior can have a dramatic impact on the final price too.
Fortunately, unlike the exterior of a building – where once the size and shape are decided it’s difficult to make changes – you can re-specify interior items all the way through the design process, saving money where and when you need to. So let’s explore the 12 key interior design considerations you need to be aware of when setting your budget, and look at some smart ways you can keep costs under control.
Fortunately, unlike the exterior of a building – where once the size and shape are decided it’s difficult to make changes – you can re-specify interior items all the way through the design process, saving money where and when you need to. So let’s explore the 12 key interior design considerations you need to be aware of when setting your budget, and look at some smart ways you can keep costs under control.
This is the second in a two-part series on Building to a Budget. Read the first part at Building to a Budget: 12 Must-Know Design Considerations.
1. Feature wall colours
Unlike painting an entire room one colour, the cost of feature wall colours can really add up. This is because the painter has to ‘cut in’ every time one colour meets another – a time-consuming process. The more colours, the higher the cost.
To keep costs down, restrict the number of feature wall colours you choose. Also limit the number of walls to be painted a feature colour as each time they meet another surface (ceiling, architraves or skirting) the painter has to carefully paint a straight line in order to achieve a perfect contrast. Not only will you get charged for the extra painting time, but for the time it takes the painter to stop, wash the brushes and start again with a new colour and paint brushes.
1. Feature wall colours
Unlike painting an entire room one colour, the cost of feature wall colours can really add up. This is because the painter has to ‘cut in’ every time one colour meets another – a time-consuming process. The more colours, the higher the cost.
To keep costs down, restrict the number of feature wall colours you choose. Also limit the number of walls to be painted a feature colour as each time they meet another surface (ceiling, architraves or skirting) the painter has to carefully paint a straight line in order to achieve a perfect contrast. Not only will you get charged for the extra painting time, but for the time it takes the painter to stop, wash the brushes and start again with a new colour and paint brushes.
This bathroom is by Williams Cabinets in collaboration with Eat.Bathe.Live.
2. Tiles
Choosing several different tiles for your floors and walls can really add to the cost of your bathroom, especially if you’ve opted for unusually shaped or intricately patterned tiles. The tiler will need to spend more time getting the pattern and positioning right, and instead of charging you by the metre, they will charge you an hourly rate to lay the tiles, which quickly adds up. There is also the potential for wastage as some tiles may need to be cut to fit the space. Multiply this by several bathrooms and the cost can soon blow out.
Tip: If you love a patterned tile, choose a simple shape, which will limit wastage and laying time. Also consider giving this royal treatment to just one bathroom in your home.
2. Tiles
Choosing several different tiles for your floors and walls can really add to the cost of your bathroom, especially if you’ve opted for unusually shaped or intricately patterned tiles. The tiler will need to spend more time getting the pattern and positioning right, and instead of charging you by the metre, they will charge you an hourly rate to lay the tiles, which quickly adds up. There is also the potential for wastage as some tiles may need to be cut to fit the space. Multiply this by several bathrooms and the cost can soon blow out.
Tip: If you love a patterned tile, choose a simple shape, which will limit wastage and laying time. Also consider giving this royal treatment to just one bathroom in your home.
Choosing a single tile shape and colour for both walls and floors will give your bathroom a luxurious feel, plus it will reduce wastage and cost. Use the same tile in all the wet areas of your home and you may get a bulk discount, saving you even more.
Tip: Natural stone, ceramic and porcelain are the main tile materials. Ceramic tiles will give you the same look as expensive stone, but are far cheaper to buy and lay.
Tip: Natural stone, ceramic and porcelain are the main tile materials. Ceramic tiles will give you the same look as expensive stone, but are far cheaper to buy and lay.
3. Window frames
Window frames come in either timber, aluminium or, if cost is no issue, slim-profile steel. There are many ways to keep costs down, but choosing a cost-effective profile is perhaps the easiest. Aluminium frames, for example, come in three different profiles – commercial, semi-commercial and residential – with the latter being considerably cheaper than the others.
Tip: Most volume builders use residential aluminium windows because they are cheap and readily available. When I select this profile for my projects I opt for black, which tends to visually retreat into the wall.
Aluminium windows prove their versatility and style
Window frames come in either timber, aluminium or, if cost is no issue, slim-profile steel. There are many ways to keep costs down, but choosing a cost-effective profile is perhaps the easiest. Aluminium frames, for example, come in three different profiles – commercial, semi-commercial and residential – with the latter being considerably cheaper than the others.
Tip: Most volume builders use residential aluminium windows because they are cheap and readily available. When I select this profile for my projects I opt for black, which tends to visually retreat into the wall.
Aluminium windows prove their versatility and style
As a rule, the more windows you have, the more expensive the build will be. Try and maximise the size and amount of glazing in your living areas where you want to enjoy solar penetration and views, and minimise glazing in spots where you spend less time, such as bedrooms.
Tip: The larger the sheet of glass, the heavier it’s likely to be, which adds to the purchase and installation cost. Sometimes you’ll find that two windows next to each other cost less than one large one.
Tip: The larger the sheet of glass, the heavier it’s likely to be, which adds to the purchase and installation cost. Sometimes you’ll find that two windows next to each other cost less than one large one.
4. Joinery drawers and cupboards
Kitchen drawers provide great storage; not only do they keep your kitchenware well organised, but they allow you to see the contents at a glance. However, drawers cost considerably more than basic kitchen cupboards. While cupboard doors have a simple hinge, drawers require extension runners so you can pull them out, and these come in various sizes and qualities. The more drawers, the higher the cost of your kitchen.
If you still can’t go past the idea of drawers but you’re on a budget, consider housing inexpensive pull-out basket drawers behind cupboard doors.
Tip: If you’ll be installing a lot of drawers, consider the type of extension runner carefully. Styles and prices vary; some have soft closers and full extension, while others only extend half way and won’t close on their own. The runner you choose will impact the final cost of the drawer.
Kitchen drawers provide great storage; not only do they keep your kitchenware well organised, but they allow you to see the contents at a glance. However, drawers cost considerably more than basic kitchen cupboards. While cupboard doors have a simple hinge, drawers require extension runners so you can pull them out, and these come in various sizes and qualities. The more drawers, the higher the cost of your kitchen.
If you still can’t go past the idea of drawers but you’re on a budget, consider housing inexpensive pull-out basket drawers behind cupboard doors.
Tip: If you’ll be installing a lot of drawers, consider the type of extension runner carefully. Styles and prices vary; some have soft closers and full extension, while others only extend half way and won’t close on their own. The runner you choose will impact the final cost of the drawer.
5. Benchtops
There are several different benchtop materials to choose from, including natural stone, Laminex and timber. But the decision-making process and cost implications don’t stop there. Other considerations to factor in include profile and sizing. As a rule, specifying larger nosing and waterfall sides will increase the supply and installation costs of the benchtop.
Tip: Choosing to top-mount rather than undermount appliances will help keep kitchen costs down. While both types require the stone supplier to cut a hole in the benchtop, with under-mounted appliances they will need to polish the visible edges of the hole too, which adds to the costs.
There are several different benchtop materials to choose from, including natural stone, Laminex and timber. But the decision-making process and cost implications don’t stop there. Other considerations to factor in include profile and sizing. As a rule, specifying larger nosing and waterfall sides will increase the supply and installation costs of the benchtop.
Tip: Choosing to top-mount rather than undermount appliances will help keep kitchen costs down. While both types require the stone supplier to cut a hole in the benchtop, with under-mounted appliances they will need to polish the visible edges of the hole too, which adds to the costs.
6. Lighting
Electricians generally charge to install light fittings by quantity. The more downlights you have, the higher the labour and installation costs. There is also the added cost of buying the light fittings and the bill shock you get for the electrical output. Limiting the amount of downlights and placing them strategically so they deliver the right light output where it’s actually needed will keep costs down.
Tip: Most lighting suppliers offer a free lighting service where they’ll design a layout tailored for your house and specific lighting needs. This not only saves you money, but gives you a well thought-out design. It does mean that you will have to buy the light fittings from that supplier though.
Read more stories about lighting
Electricians generally charge to install light fittings by quantity. The more downlights you have, the higher the labour and installation costs. There is also the added cost of buying the light fittings and the bill shock you get for the electrical output. Limiting the amount of downlights and placing them strategically so they deliver the right light output where it’s actually needed will keep costs down.
Tip: Most lighting suppliers offer a free lighting service where they’ll design a layout tailored for your house and specific lighting needs. This not only saves you money, but gives you a well thought-out design. It does mean that you will have to buy the light fittings from that supplier though.
Read more stories about lighting
7. Light switches and power points
They’ve become a real fashion statement of late, but choosing non-standard light switches and power points can add significantly to the cost of your build. And while there are all sorts of styles on the market to choose from, from ones that light up to touch-sensitive styles, they all essentially do the same thing – turn your light and power on.
Your electrician may also charge you more to install a specialist fitting, with possible extra labour costs on top of that to cut a hole in the wall if the wiring deviates from normal.
Tip: In my projects, I specify cheap light and power switches for those areas that are not seen, such as inside cupboards. I keep more costly and attractive switches for visible areas.
They’ve become a real fashion statement of late, but choosing non-standard light switches and power points can add significantly to the cost of your build. And while there are all sorts of styles on the market to choose from, from ones that light up to touch-sensitive styles, they all essentially do the same thing – turn your light and power on.
Your electrician may also charge you more to install a specialist fitting, with possible extra labour costs on top of that to cut a hole in the wall if the wiring deviates from normal.
Tip: In my projects, I specify cheap light and power switches for those areas that are not seen, such as inside cupboards. I keep more costly and attractive switches for visible areas.
8. Timber floors
If you love the look of timber flooring but want to keep costs down, choose common, readily-available species such as Victorian ash or an Australian hardwood. And when you’re budgeting for flooring, remember that your supplier will quote you per square metre for the timber, and this price won’t include laying or staining.
Tip: With a timber floor, you’ll need to decide whether to top nail it to the substructure and let the floor polisher putty the hole and sand it, or to ‘secret nail’ it by fastening the nail through the tongue of the board into the substrate. The latter option is invisible, but costs more.
If you love the look of timber flooring but want to keep costs down, choose common, readily-available species such as Victorian ash or an Australian hardwood. And when you’re budgeting for flooring, remember that your supplier will quote you per square metre for the timber, and this price won’t include laying or staining.
Tip: With a timber floor, you’ll need to decide whether to top nail it to the substructure and let the floor polisher putty the hole and sand it, or to ‘secret nail’ it by fastening the nail through the tongue of the board into the substrate. The latter option is invisible, but costs more.
For a cost-effective alternative to solid timber, consider timber laminate, which has a thin layer of timber veneer on top of a cheap timber interlay. Laminate is pre-finished, meaning it’s already stained, varnished and quick to lay. It comes in a variety of species at affordable prices, allowing you to have an expensive species at a fraction of the cost of its solid equivalent.
Tip: When shopping for laminate timber flooring, ask the supplier to specify the thickness of the veneer component. Some veneers are only a couple of millimetres thick and, if scratched, will expose the cheap timber underneath. Laminates with a thicker veneer allow you to sand back the floor a couple of times if required, providing a better investment.
Learn more about timber laminate
Tip: When shopping for laminate timber flooring, ask the supplier to specify the thickness of the veneer component. Some veneers are only a couple of millimetres thick and, if scratched, will expose the cheap timber underneath. Laminates with a thicker veneer allow you to sand back the floor a couple of times if required, providing a better investment.
Learn more about timber laminate
9. Ceiling heights
Ceiling heights are often dictated by the size of the plaster sheets available, which are generally 1200 or 1350 millimetres high. Most volume builders prefer 2400-, 2550- or 2700-millimetre-high ceilings because they can use two sheets of plaster on top of each other with only the one join. However, if you were to specify a 3000-millimetre-high ceiling, even though you have only slightly increased the height, the builder would charge you for an entire extra plaster sheet. Multiply this across all walls and the cost is huge.
Tip: Stick to standard-height ceilings for most areas and then choose one room in your home to make a dramatic statement with an over-sized ceiling.
Ceiling heights are often dictated by the size of the plaster sheets available, which are generally 1200 or 1350 millimetres high. Most volume builders prefer 2400-, 2550- or 2700-millimetre-high ceilings because they can use two sheets of plaster on top of each other with only the one join. However, if you were to specify a 3000-millimetre-high ceiling, even though you have only slightly increased the height, the builder would charge you for an entire extra plaster sheet. Multiply this across all walls and the cost is huge.
Tip: Stick to standard-height ceilings for most areas and then choose one room in your home to make a dramatic statement with an over-sized ceiling.
Square setting, where there are no cornices at the line where the ceilings and walls intersect, can be a great way to make a standard room height feel taller. While square setting generally costs more than a basic cornice finish, it’s still considerably cheaper than raising the height of the ceiling.
Tip: You can balance out the cost of square setting by installing cheap cornices in parts of the house where they won’t be seen, such as inside cupboards and the garage.
Tip: You can balance out the cost of square setting by installing cheap cornices in parts of the house where they won’t be seen, such as inside cupboards and the garage.
10. Wardrobes and cupboards
It’s easy to see the appeal of custom-made wardrobes; they can be designed to suit your storage needs and the space perfectly. But they can also blow your budget. To reduce costs, limit how many you install and the number of drawers and specialised fittings.
Or, have robes incorporated into the plastered wall. The builder plasters the inside with a simple robe rail and shelves, and installs architraves and doors from the outside. Door heights are standard, but you can individualise the interior fittings.
Tip: To get the look of a custom robe without the price tag, buy off-the-rack cupboards, which come in different finishes and fittings. Bear in mind that you will be limited to standard sizes. As such, it’s best to consider them in the early stages of the design process so you can be sure they’ll fit perfectly.
It’s easy to see the appeal of custom-made wardrobes; they can be designed to suit your storage needs and the space perfectly. But they can also blow your budget. To reduce costs, limit how many you install and the number of drawers and specialised fittings.
Or, have robes incorporated into the plastered wall. The builder plasters the inside with a simple robe rail and shelves, and installs architraves and doors from the outside. Door heights are standard, but you can individualise the interior fittings.
Tip: To get the look of a custom robe without the price tag, buy off-the-rack cupboards, which come in different finishes and fittings. Bear in mind that you will be limited to standard sizes. As such, it’s best to consider them in the early stages of the design process so you can be sure they’ll fit perfectly.
11. Appliances
Have your heart set on specific high-end appliances for your kitchen or laundry, but shudder at the price? Scratch and dent sales can be a great way to save. If the back and sides of an appliance are damaged, where no-one will ever see them, you can save money without compromising on looks.
Tip: If you’re buying a new but slightly damaged item, you should still be eligible for a full warranty. Check with the supplier.
Have your heart set on specific high-end appliances for your kitchen or laundry, but shudder at the price? Scratch and dent sales can be a great way to save. If the back and sides of an appliance are damaged, where no-one will ever see them, you can save money without compromising on looks.
Tip: If you’re buying a new but slightly damaged item, you should still be eligible for a full warranty. Check with the supplier.
12. Taps
Taps come in various finishes and can be mounted on a bench or wall. For practical rooms such as the laundry, where looks don’t really matter, keep costs down by choosing a standard tap design. Keep that stunning and costly tap for public areas, such as a guest bathroom.
Tip: Price shouldn’t be the only consideration when you’re choosing a tap; also ask the supplier about the warranty period and the type of internal mechanism that makes the tap work.
Taps come in various finishes and can be mounted on a bench or wall. For practical rooms such as the laundry, where looks don’t really matter, keep costs down by choosing a standard tap design. Keep that stunning and costly tap for public areas, such as a guest bathroom.
Tip: Price shouldn’t be the only consideration when you’re choosing a tap; also ask the supplier about the warranty period and the type of internal mechanism that makes the tap work.
The way you choose to mount a tap will also affect cost and scheduling. Wall-mounted taps look impressive, but have to be installed in the early stages of a build before the splashback and vanity are ordered. The plumber simply can’t get the location of the tap wrong as it has implications down the track when centring the basin under the spout.
Mounting a tap on the basin is cheaper than on the benchtop, as a hole may need to be drilled through the surface to allow for the tap.
Tip: You need to choose the tile or stone thickness for your splashback before the tap is installed. This is because the plumber needs to know the thickness so he or she can install the tap in the studwork at the right depth. If you change your mind and the thickness of the splashback material alters, the tap handle may not fit the spindle.
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What smart swap-outs have you made to keep your project on budget? Tell us in the Comments section below.
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Mounting a tap on the basin is cheaper than on the benchtop, as a hole may need to be drilled through the surface to allow for the tap.
Tip: You need to choose the tile or stone thickness for your splashback before the tap is installed. This is because the plumber needs to know the thickness so he or she can install the tap in the studwork at the right depth. If you change your mind and the thickness of the splashback material alters, the tap handle may not fit the spindle.
Tell us
What smart swap-outs have you made to keep your project on budget? Tell us in the Comments section below.
More
Read more building stories
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Love This!
wonderful advice Thank you
I swapped wall tiles for water proof VJ board in an en-suite. Looks great and heaps cheaper