Hi 28! I would recommend having a sheet made out for them of as many things as you can think of everyday. We call it a punch list. They can check off each item as they do it and if they mess something up, you have proof. That said, tradesman can't be micromanaged. The need to be trusted to do their job but things like MIrror Placement approval, and color choices should be signed off on. One thing I have learned from a lifetime of experience is that often, something we feel is catastrophic to our design, ends up being very acceptable and sometimes even better with familiarity! That's not to say I still think I'm going to die if everything isn't perfect on a job, LOL! But in the end, perfection is boring and not really human nature at all. Happy mistakes rule! Your mirrors are fine ;>)

Hi @Lindel, The easy answer to your question e-screens. Can you put screens in front of the windows in the other gabled half of your frontage (where you have the drapes)? - You may not be able to coordinate with the blue screens in the dining room. If this is the case, then you might consider sacrificing them to the cause. It would also open up your choices with regard to selection of fabrics for the Romans. The relative cost of e-screens is fairly minor and will be more than offset by the wow effect of the statement you'll make with some nice Romans, and at the same time provide a uniform exterior projection across your entire house frontage. I'd strongly suggest 'pelmets' with the Roman Treatments. Yes. - It will add to the overall cost but it really would tie it all in. I would suggest you do not have your Roman's and pelmets in the same fabric. There are many coordinated fabrics as options from reputable Australian suppliers. Do the job properly with someone who will custom make Traditional Soft Roman's (as opposed to 'Hard Roman's' aka Casual Romans, Beach Blinds. If not within budget today better to wait; than to settle for second best. Properly lined custom made Romans + e-screens with pelmets, are going to save you on heating costs. (I have them through my own house, replacing some pre-existing verticals and it did make a big difference to my comfort in winter and $$$ saved on my heating bill). Here's an example of a Soft Roman with a single pelmet tying the treatments across three windows together: Above: Traditional Soft Roman Blinds (Lined) with a single pelmet tying the three windows together. Treatment variation: 4 pelmets completing the treatments for 4 windows. Alternatively, depending on the spacing between your windows, three separate pelmets could be used (marginally more cost - fabric for the returns/sides). Personally, I would go for a straight pelmet box for a more formal projection (rather than concave edged pelmets pictured above in your space). Pelmets can also be varied in fascia depth and depending on the height of the window. I would suggest min 20, 25 or maximum 30cm height. Ours look great with 20cm fascias. - Go for 'coordinated' rather than same fabric, to really set it off, along with high quality flange cord trim. You'll find a lot of the images that come up in your 'Roman Searches' from Oz, 'land' you on US Treatment search results; most of which are unlined and tend to have that 'saggy' look. You'll find more images of Traditional Soft Roman's raiding the photo archives of the Houzz sites in Europe. (although there are a number of excellent images here here on Houzz Oz). We recommend Warwick Fabrics, Charles Parsons, James Dunlop (Mokum/Pegasus), Nettex. Jump on their websites, view their collections. In most cases you will be able to order cuttings at no charge. - You'll be able to touch and feel and see how they will look in your home. Don't rush. Take your time as getting it right contributes greatly to the impact and projection of the vision you realise for the overall room. Above: Another example of a soft roman but without pelmets. It suits well in this interior, top-fixed to the ceiling (which would not be the case in your room). The above image also lacks the formal projection (or at least 'transitional') that you need for your space. In the above image, it is also worth noting that when viewed closer-up the head-rail is far more noticeable, and given the proximity of your windows to the dining table, far better covered over by pelmet(s). You will literally 'warm the cockles' of your dining guest's hearts during winter with the extra insulation that pelmets add to the treatment. Finally, this from Charles Parsons via the Window Coverings Association of Australia (WCAA) may prove enlightening: Energy Savings - Window Fact Sheet (via WCAA) All the best and do make sure you post the before/after shots, whatever solution you land on. Nancy.

I have a separate guest toilet without windows using a ceiling extractor fan - not a problem. I also have internal cavity sliding doors to bathrooms and toilets and love how they give extra space and options regarding placement of items. Another location alternative for you may be between the cinema room and the kitchen, depending on what you had planned for that extra space in the kitchen. Two metres is a wide hallway, if that is what it is? Ours is 1.3 which is considered wide (as we need to accommodate a wheelchair which has to turn into doorways). An advantage of a very wide hallway is it gives room for extra furniture placement such as bookshelves, linen or other cupboards if needed. I don't see a linen cupboard or pantry cupboard in your plans. Something else to think about is future proofing - try to cover future possibilities with regard to function, as making structural or fittings changes later can be more expensive, and may come at a time when you can least afford it (e.g. injured, disabled, children, aging or other such people visiting your home). Lives change, sometimes over time, sometimes in an instant, and suddenly the doors are not wide enough (especially the toilet door!), or the walls are not strong enough for a weight-bearing rail, and a host of other things. We put 900cm doors as a minimum and it makes life a lot easier, including moving furniture in and out. Universal Design principles are worth a look. Sadly these considerations are currently considered special or optional, although there are moves to change that, so that builders and architects will consider these things as standard.

Thank you all for your advice. In response to the comment about wheelchairs, I actually looked up the legal requirement and found it to be 850mm clear, so even at 900mm this gap would be adequate but most doors in the house would not be wide enough, so I guess we move if either of us is confined to a wheel chair. I don't see us maintaining a large house and 1.5 acres in that situation anyway, as sad as it would be. Interestingly, I am advised that the new building code - to be introduced next year - will require ALL houses to be wheelchair friendly. No steps, wider doorways and halls throughout, disabled toilet and shower facilities. Insane in my opinion, particularly given the cost impact during a massive housing affordability crisis. What planet to these bureaucrats live on? That aside, I take the point about moving the hotplate and changing the shape of the island, but having considered that carefully, the idea doesn't appeal. But the hotplate is only 600mm. I had planned on a 750mm but as we have a 750mm glass top gas cooktop in the alfresco area out back and we hardly ever use more than 2 burners at a time, hubby convinced me to go with the 600. In fact, he ended up choosing the cooktop as he does a lot of the cooking. So at 1050mm, the leg of the L allows up to 450mm between the cooktop and end of the bench. Even if I leave 200mm + the 600 for at the corner at the other end, there is still 250mm. I considered shortening the leg of the L, but I specifically wanted a pullout on the end of it for oils, etc. so I am thinking maybe take the gap back to 950mm. That gives me an extra 150mm in the dining room. Bigreader, I possibly should have included more of the space in the image for clarity. Here it is: There will be a very small table and chair setting for casual meals in the U at the front and biflold doors leading to a terrace where we will often eat, so the gap will be for moving between cooking area and those two eating areas. Generally only one cook though. Drawers are for plates and cutlery. The space to the left is designated ''dining'' but need not be used much for that purpose given the two casual eating areas (both only accommodating 4 people max) and a large 8 person diining setting in the screened outdoor living area at the rear. But there will be a large wall unit along the wall on the left, taking up 500mm of the width, and the current width is only 3.25m, reducing to 2.75m with the wall unit in place. I was thinking of maybe putting a banquette setting - minus the chairs on the left side - in there using a narrow table so that in inclement weather if we had a larger crowd for a meal (which does happen quite often) or if we had more than 8 for a meal (which happens regularly on special occasions) we could move the chairs from one of the other eating areas and eat in the dining space rather than separating people more by putting some at the front of the house and some at the very back. But I don't want to crowd the space such that walking thru to the outdoor room is awkward as that thoroughfare will be used heavily used, especially when we have guests. I did consider leaving it empty but thought that might look rather odd. Or I could just put some casual seating in that space, as there will be a TV in the wall unit. BTW. I deliberately avoided a wider island as I like the raised hob screening the sink area and we hate eating at a bench. Thanks again for all the great advice.