You can if the kitchen joinery is a dark enough black, the walnut is stunning. Presuming your timber floor is if any would also be mid toned, the black joinery would simply be a personal accent, and would work best if it's included in small furnishing details elsewhere. I think this would be the same as people with timber floorboards wanting to have black or iron furnishings, including sofas and coffee tables, that wouldn't be dismissed at all, so I think this has merit. I would however keep colour to a minimum to avoid a confused cohesiveness. There's quite a lot of black and beige being done in modern design, because it's organic and can striking and warm at the same time. It's quite architectural and high end. Go for it. I would love a black walnut kitchen!

Hi Micshak, No, you're not argumentative at all - your frustrated and understandably angry about your experience and are coming from that place. I didn't say that there weren't minimums, I said that rectified tiles allowed finer than traditional grout lines. Happily for me, I've had a similar issue to Stacey and were fortune to have great building team who ensured that my problem was fixed as soon as I raised it with them and they covered fixing the issue and resulting damages from their pocket - it wasn't even a conversation topic - what I got was "absolutely, yeah, that needs to be fixed, no worries" - the difference between great people and the guy you sadly got. Your story almost bought me to tears but did bring home the advice I had from more experienced family members on personally checking license and trade affiliations such as HIA and checking the trades insurances as well as being on site every day and only paying when I was happy for the job. It goes to show - just because you're a good person, doesn't mean that everyone you meet is a good person. Know that I believe that poor tradesman and badly behaved tradesman who don't produce reasonable quality work should be publicly flogged and branded because of the heartbreak, stress and financial hardship they put people through. Stacey needs to be able to give the option of having the problem fixed and the tiler/builder the chance to regain his reputation before trying to fix things yourself - despite your horrible experience, most are tradies are hardworking good people and want to do great work for you to keep good will for their business. Sadly for you anyone who is going to prohibit this man from getting work/money isn't going to do much except be background noise. Davco, the tile supplier etc aren't able to stop him from getting work - but you sure can and I'd encourage you to go after him with unrelenting vengeance) - go to the appropriate licensing board and talk to them. Go to HIA if your tiler is a member and the Fair Trading body in your state as a matter of course - they should be able to force compensation. I would threaten to get on every website, blogsite (including TrueLocal), the local paper and social media to tell as many people as you can about your experience with this tradesman naming names and showing what appalling work was done if you don't receive a refund/compensation/a first class quality fix within 14 days - and then if you're not happy follow through with the shaming and make sure he knows about it by sending him links/snapshots/clippings naming him and his business and let him know you're so upset that this will continue to be refreshed on a monthly basis until you receive satisfaction or he's out of business. If he indicated any businesses or people that would recommend him or gave you a list of previous jobs, I'd be sending letters to them (with photos and supporting correspondence) letting them know - and copying him. Builders all talk ;) Oh - and you could always do what a friend of mine did - have friends ring the gentleman in question to book work then cancel at the last minute after you've done your shame campaign siting the fact that they heard that he was a shameless, substandard tiler and their going with a more reputable tiler. Evil, but no more than than deserved. Stacey - I honestly hope you have more my experience than poor Micshak's. Let us know how you get on.

@Relle Belle, I too am OCD about things being straight, even and balanced. We are building our home entirely ourselves and so when we were ready for the electrician, I had already drawn up a lighting plan. I made the sole decision ultimately where every light, fan, powerpoint, light switch and pendant was to go, as it's my home and I have to be forever happy with it but more importantly, when you are personally responsible for the position of every light etc... you start to make better decisions about where they should be and why!! I decided on evenly spacing my down lights with four in each bedroom and a fan in the centre but without a light, as I'm not fond of fans with lights, they tend to take away from the beauty and elegance of downlights. My lounge kitchen dining is one open plan, so I still have the downlights evenly spaced but simply have some lights set on seperate switches, so they have more of a purpose, as I have an open passageway running the full length of this open plan area, so I didn't need those lights on when I only want the lounge lights on for example. Again I have a fan in the centre of the lounge only and in the kitchen, the down lights weren't going to sit squarely over the island, something I couldn't live with, so I chose not to place them in that way at all and have decided on a central task light over the island and I have feature pendants over the dining table. All my lights line up in this large open area and look real good that way and I'm very happy with the changes but I can't stress enough that a simple lighting diagram can be all you need to get the look and feel you want long term. In the bedrooms I'm having pendants, so you have to either already know the size of the bed for each room or physically have the bed for each room as your pendant switch needs to be just past the edge of the bed but not too far away to be over reaching when already in bed to turn the light on or off. I also don't like the largish 100mm+ downlights and have chosen the smaller neater 90mm lights, makes the ceiling look less busy and with a ducted cooling system in the future I wanted to allow space for the ducting vent without having the ceiling overcrowded. If the fans bother you now, chances are they always will, so move them now!! There is really far more to consider than simply leaving the lighting plan to an electrician who often doesn't care a hoot if the lighting is adequate or ill positioned, unless you are lucky like me and have an electrician that does care, so if you want to make any changes whilst the wiring is going in, it's a piece of cake and don't let any electrician tell you otherwise!!!

Indoor plants, like any gardening, is trying and seeing. Choose some indoor plants you like, put them around and see what happens. If they stop looking healthy then move, water more or less or feed then rinse and repeat. This is both the best and worst part of any gardening. Can be obsessive. You'll only get a great result through long trial and error or dumb luck. Unless your a professional I guess ;).