The Haggeby cabinets have a simple melamine coating, so they're better off for small projects like a basement kitchen or a kitchenette, from our experience. We've designed hundreds of kitchens with IKEA cabinets and we definitely suggest using the VEDDINGE doors as an alternative. Their edges are slighlty curved (barely noticeable) and they have a painted, satin finish that is very easy to care for.

I've been debating between Haggeby and Veddinge. My appliances are white. Therfore I thought white cabinets would work best. I'm not close to an IKEA; the closest is a 10 hour drive. I agree that Haageby seems to look a bit cheaper, but I have seen a lot of comments that Veddinge wears quite fast (scratches, marks, etc). Could I get your feedback?...

Viola and safrosch, I know this is an old thread, but we're designing an IKEA kitchen and I was wondering what you went with and if you're happy with your choice. Would love pics if you have them!

That's great advice, Brick row! This will be our second IKEA kitchen. The first we used the Grimslov off white, which actually matched stock Home Depot/ Lowe's subway tile very very nicely. I thought I'd want the Veddinge for this kitchen because they feel very nice, but that feedback about the Haggeby is super helpful!

We are using Haggeby in our basement and are also wondering about whether it is necessary to use cover panels. I have read that the Haggeby doors are basically the same as the cabinet sides, so cover panels are really not needed. Can anyone with experience offer any reason why we need cover panels, other than on the back of the island? TIA!

Hi CRCollins - We always recommend cover panels for a more finished look, but it depends on how you are using the cabinets and where they are going. Typically, some space is needed between a cabinet door and the adjacent wall/corner so it has room to open, so the cover panel thickness helps in that sense as well as aesthetically. Depending on the knob/handle hardware depth and where the cabinet is located, you might be able to get away without it, functionally. But if you're going to see the side of the cabinet (which the IKEA cabinet boxes aren't really intended for), I'd add a panel. Haggeby is a near match to the melamine color of the cabinet box, but the box is made out of particleboard, so if you ever get a chip in it, it's toast. Literally, it'll look like a piece of toast! The cover panel (made of MDF) is far more durable and has a smoother finish. It's a minimal added cost for a much better end result, which is always worth it! Best of luck with your project.

Thanks for this information! This is for our basement, so I'm not terribly worried about finishing it off the way I would our main kitchen. There will be one tall pantry cabinet, with a door opening directly against a wall. Is a panel necessary between the pantry and the wall so the door will open all the way? I had not planned for one there since the side won't bee seen, but hadn't considered the door may not open. We are also going to have an island where the sides will be visible (the back will be against a pony wall that will hold plumbing). The sides of the island is where I was more concerned about the need for end panels. I do understand the durability issue so thanks for describing the difference in the panels and the boxes.

You're welcome! For the island sides, I'd definitely use the side gables. They come in dimensions meant to cover up the suspension rail + cabinet box + side profile of the cabinet door, you just cut them to the appropriate dimension to make them flush with the door face.

For the pantry, what is typically used for that situation is a filler panel, which IKEA sells in 3" wide lengths. The reason is twofold: first, while IKEA uses Blum euro hinges that allow the door to open within the width of the cabinet rather than swinging wider than the box, once you add a knob or handle, the hardware will hit the wall. You can get around that by using touch latch hardware like the Utrusta push openers (or selecting a door front like Voxtorp with built-in finger pulls, but we're talking about Haggeby). Secondly, as much as we'd like everything to be perfect, the adjacent wall is rarely going to be straight and true. So if the pantry is butted right up against the wall, you'll have a gap at some point. You could use DAP or something to fill it, but in light of the aforementioned hardware issue, it's best to add a filler piece to make it look more professionally finished. If there is absolutely no wiggle room in your plan for an extra 1.5-2" to allow for it, going without can and has been done, but again I'd recommend the touch latch so you don't have a knob denting the wall. Would love to see a pic of the finished project!

Would like to use either Haggeby or Tingsryd door in laundry room. Anyone knows how these doors handle moisture?

I have a question about the Haggeby cabinets...

I am re-designing a children's room in a church and want to use the sektion cabinetry. We do have a budget and so I was considering the Haggeby since we need quite a bit of cabinets and the cost will add up if I go with nicer fronts. However, I don't want white. I am a professional painter and wondered how the material used on the Haggeby fronts would do being painted?

Good morning. That's a question best answered by IKEA considering it's a product specification. Thanks. Mike

The finish on the doors is somewhat matte, not shiny like a melamine. I think they'd paint up okay but as cheap as they are, I'd buy one and test it out before committing. Also, depending on the color you're painting, you might use the dark boxes rather than the white ones so would want to consider that in your paint color selection.