I see this is a very old thread , with lots of comments . I've just skim read them , but I haven't seen anyone suggest anything like my 'top-of-my-head' idea -- I love the wood , and the white contrast , but pretty boring . Whats your favourite colour , or what ties in with the other rooms ? It might be blue or red or yellow or orange or green , as examples . So paint the skirting board and around the door a pastel shade of your choice , and add a small 30cm x 30cm abstract painting featuring that colour as the primary dominant one , above ( or possibly below , or maybe even get 2 matching/complementary ones ) the control panel . One lighting crowd suggested glass shades -- I'd actually go for someothing large but wooden , in much the same shade as your floors and steps , with LED bulbs -- you can get some stunning ones around 80-100 cm in diameter ( sort of a star ball shape ) for $300-400 . Total budget then $500 plus a painter and maybe electrician , unless you DIY .

Cassansrabrill - This problem intrigues me quite a bit. Would you have the name and brand of that navy please? And thanks in advance! I am sufficiently intrigued with the idea of navy walls to obtain a sample pot and have a 'play'. Its been my life's work studying colour and perfecting a colour-mixing teaching text for artists that is irrefutable... so I am always interested in anything that challenges it. Living spaces are places where we need to feel 'at home' so not so much about what trends and styles dictate, personal preference always prevails. I hope you resolve your problem. I have a dark little house, all natural timber with arctic glass in all the original windows. Whilst it makes for privacy, when the light and sunlight 'bounces' of the disparity in the glass surface, its amazing how the light from a certain angle totally changes the otherwise dark walls of the room. Mydesign0401 would have experience with this too. Try the window film, there's a design for every style and preference, the cost would be minimal if not to your liking....and that's the operative word...LIKEing! I've just had an idea from something Mdesign0401 said...'vertical space'... Are you going to anything more with the ceiling? We are fortunate to have so many products today that you should not have any drama finding some sort of paint or application for the ceiling that will reflect the light downwards. A brand called RESENE manufactures "shimmer" colours.Some very interesting effects can be achieved with this product. If you likethe idea of navy walls you may wish to consider sampling the RESENE Digital Blue ()Astronaut)...that's the base colour... M40-046-279 The base colour is applied first then a transparent coat of what they call "Pearl Shimmer",.another is "Pixie Dust", both are waterbourne pearlescent glazes..=overcoats..(.not meaning shiny like varnishes). but nevertheless ideal for creating shimmering and softly sparkled finishes over colour. Alternatively, although I have not experimented with this myself (yet!)...from what I can acertain from the manufacturers...the "shimmer overcoats"...and there are several different types, I suspect may be applicable over...'ordinary-other brand' colours.....Just an idea...something I would try myself over either acrylic or enamel paint. Houzz is such an inspirational site!...from the above I've recalled that there's a clear metallic for application over timber... exciting! I'm like a kid in a candy shop whenever new paint products appear! RESENE's staff (not the retails stockists in hardware shops) are highly trained in properties of their product. Should you want any firther information I suggest you go directly to the manufacturer. 1800 758 383 QLD Gold Coast. Happy Houzzing!

Hi Micshak, No, you're not argumentative at all - your frustrated and understandably angry about your experience and are coming from that place. I didn't say that there weren't minimums, I said that rectified tiles allowed finer than traditional grout lines. Happily for me, I've had a similar issue to Stacey and were fortune to have great building team who ensured that my problem was fixed as soon as I raised it with them and they covered fixing the issue and resulting damages from their pocket - it wasn't even a conversation topic - what I got was "absolutely, yeah, that needs to be fixed, no worries" - the difference between great people and the guy you sadly got. Your story almost bought me to tears but did bring home the advice I had from more experienced family members on personally checking license and trade affiliations such as HIA and checking the trades insurances as well as being on site every day and only paying when I was happy for the job. It goes to show - just because you're a good person, doesn't mean that everyone you meet is a good person. Know that I believe that poor tradesman and badly behaved tradesman who don't produce reasonable quality work should be publicly flogged and branded because of the heartbreak, stress and financial hardship they put people through. Stacey needs to be able to give the option of having the problem fixed and the tiler/builder the chance to regain his reputation before trying to fix things yourself - despite your horrible experience, most are tradies are hardworking good people and want to do great work for you to keep good will for their business. Sadly for you anyone who is going to prohibit this man from getting work/money isn't going to do much except be background noise. Davco, the tile supplier etc aren't able to stop him from getting work - but you sure can and I'd encourage you to go after him with unrelenting vengeance) - go to the appropriate licensing board and talk to them. Go to HIA if your tiler is a member and the Fair Trading body in your state as a matter of course - they should be able to force compensation. I would threaten to get on every website, blogsite (including TrueLocal), the local paper and social media to tell as many people as you can about your experience with this tradesman naming names and showing what appalling work was done if you don't receive a refund/compensation/a first class quality fix within 14 days - and then if you're not happy follow through with the shaming and make sure he knows about it by sending him links/snapshots/clippings naming him and his business and let him know you're so upset that this will continue to be refreshed on a monthly basis until you receive satisfaction or he's out of business. If he indicated any businesses or people that would recommend him or gave you a list of previous jobs, I'd be sending letters to them (with photos and supporting correspondence) letting them know - and copying him. Builders all talk ;) Oh - and you could always do what a friend of mine did - have friends ring the gentleman in question to book work then cancel at the last minute after you've done your shame campaign siting the fact that they heard that he was a shameless, substandard tiler and their going with a more reputable tiler. Evil, but no more than than deserved. Stacey - I honestly hope you have more my experience than poor Micshak's. Let us know how you get on.

Wow, well, I didn't see that one, and since I tried bristle brushes anyway without success it may not have worked. What I did find, thanks to your suggestion, was this thing, which has fine grit embedded in the nylon bristles. So harder than a brush, softer than wire. The problem with my ceilings (all five of them) is that for the past 122 years, the thin pressed tin was the ONLY surface between the room and the corrugated iron roof. An oven in summer, an icebox in winter, and huge temperature fluctuations between night and day - so although the paint is only one or two coats thick, it has crazed as well as peeled or bubbled. Totally impractical financially speaking as well as impossible time-wise, to strip it back, so it's just remedial work for me. Getting rid of any hanging flakes, and filling in the tiny cracks. Togged up with eye protection, face mask, ear muffs when using the grinder, and a shower cap, I used a combination of the fan grinder below, a hand held small wire brush, the wooden handle of my paint brush, and the plastic end of a broom (when standing on the floor) to scrape flakes and crunch 'blisters'. After discussing the problem with a local specialist paint manufacturer I came away with a fantastic primer which primes ANY surface, even aluminium, bonds the paint, fills tiny cracks, and covers amazingly well. I used a soft brush. Much to my surprise it only took half a pot to do a ceiling of just under 13 sq metres. I found it was less exhausting to do first the scraping, then painting, whatever was in reach before moving the ladder. This saved a lot of double handling.. I hung my paint pot on the ladder, so just threw a cloth over it while doing the scraping. One more tip is that you can do touchups from the floor very nicely with a foam roller mini brush on a pole. The foam roller squidges into the hills and valleys of the tin patterns. I have now finished preparing this first room and only have the top coat to finish off. I don't think I'll need more than one coat, as the prep coat is so good already. I'm going to use a good quality flat white ceiling paint (they usually have a bit of black in them for better coverage). I don't pretend it will look as glorious as the original, but I'm not doing a full-on restoration, just a renovation/refreshing of a very humble cottage. I think it will still look attractive, flaws and all, and show the history of the house. Photo also below of work in progress, and the 'after' of the prep coat. If I remember, I'll post an after picture once I've finished the final coat. :)