"Architect-designed houses are not accessible to all." This is a myth championed by the building industry. Alternatively, why not focus on the key benefits architects bring to a project. Here are a few for you: • Appoint an architect to your project and you’ll gain a home designed for the way you want to live.The alternative is a builder-designed home that suits what the builder is used to building. Quality builders will ask for plans and specifications to be thoroughly documented so that they can go ahead and do what they do best, which is build. Working out with the owner what you’re going to build and why is the architect’s role. • An architect manages planning approvals. This process is complex, often arbitrarily applied by many Councils, fraught with pitfalls for the novice and is ramped up every year with new hoops to jump. If you want a professional on your side who knows the territory, will go in to bat for you and will forge a way through this minefield, you need an architect. • If you’d prefer to put the works to tender to a number of builders rather than having to accept the quote of the builder you started the process with, you need an architect. • If you’d prefer to protect yourself with a proper, architect-managed ABIC contract that works equally for both parties and is legally enforceable, you need an architect. • An architect will minimise costly changes during construction as he or she will produce a proper level of drawings (expect 20 x A3 pages for a new home, rather than the 1-2 pages you’ll receive from a drafting service.). The reasons for this are that you have on paper exactly what you want to build. Without this, you are entering a contract with a builder with none of the details resolved. You wouldn’t do that if you were buying a house, so why do it when spending an equally significant amount of money? Unfortunately, some builders see this approach as an opportunity to happily accept constant changes from ‘project managing’ owners because it’s just another variation that he can charge for. The longer he is there, the better for his margins, particularly when there’s no contract to speak of. Finally, an architect is a specialist with a professional duty of care, irrespective of financial gain. In other words, they’re there to support and protect you, without benefit to themselves. No one else in the building industry can provide this.

Hi Stacy with carpet there are 3 basic types of finish, each with certain advantages. 1. Loop pile. As the name suggests the yarn is stitched into the backing and forms a loop. As the fibre is continuous it is the strongest construction and if you place the loops close enough you get a very hard wearing carpet. this is why most often the loop is used in commercial carpet. Use wool with this style and it lasts for years. Comes in plain colours (eg sisal) or with a multi flecked (Berber) 2. Cut pile. When the yarn is actually being stitched into the backing, the loop is cut (hence the name). There are two styles in cut piles, being the twist and the plush pile. The twist has a textured look due to the yarn treatment, and the plush has a very smooth velvet style of finish. The plush is the one you see the footprints /vacuum marks in the most and when all other things are equal it is also the weakest style. 3. Cut and loop. Manufacturers create patterns by doing sections in loops and sections in a plush. I mention the above so you understand what it is you are looking at. I caution my clients on wool in a plush pile as it is very prone to what is called watermarking. This is where the lie of the yarn changes direction in patches permanently and you get a two tone look ie it looks wet in patches. we have just installed a high quality 100oz twist pile (in a chocolate colour) on a thick underlay to our bedrooms, theatre and lounge... Looks stunning and it is DELUXXXXE to walk on in the morning with bare feet! hope that helps... cheers

Sorry Cassandra, been working! What about the colour Ridge in the New Sunrise range. It's not as stark as Valley, has a lighter appearance, still in the darker colour range, but with adding wood and copper etc, I think it'd look great and tie in nicely. Best bet is to get your local carpet shop to lend you a sample (if they do that) for a few days and put it under the drapes. You'll be able to see how it looks at night as well as daytime. While you're at it, get a sample of colour Paua in either the Detroit (28oz), Columbia (36oz), Golden Bay/ Alabama (55oz), or Wattle Bay (70oz). The weight is indicative of price, also depth/height, or plushness if you like, of the different names I've listed. FYI, New Sunrise is a 44oz, to give a comparison. I've seen Wattle Bay Paua installed with beige-y curtains, and looks amazing. If you have a darker colour at the bottom (floor) and lighter colours on walls, ceilings, it gives the place a "grounded" look.

The first two photos are of the french doors going into the bedroom from the loungeroom. I have stripped them back but not stained or varnished yet. The doors on the opposite side of the bedroom are the same but I can't get the blind to roll up. The third picture is of the other side of the second lot of french doors. They go onto my bedroom. Third is a quick, rough house plan. The entry to the house is off the verandah into the loungeroom. The house faces north.