I ended up using Lea Ceramiche Slim Tech porcelain panels from the Baltic stone range. My husband (a bold DIYer) decided to use the angle grinder to cut it himself. It was all good until he glued it on and pressed it sightly to make it adhere. There was a small crack. I could have cried! We decided it was barely noticeable (a hairline crack) so we have left it and it looks superb. No grout lines, easy to clean and so modern looking. We also used it on the face of the island (in front of the bar stools). We are SO happy with it. It cost roughly $450 (aud) a panel but a panel is 3 metres long x 1 m high x 3mm thick. I highly recommend these for an alternative to glass or tiles. :)

Hi Cath The 3 quotes you have are from a builder and 2 renovating companies? As we said previously, the main thing to focus on is that now you know some of the requirements, you are really faced with deciding between a cosmetic renovation and a rework of the entire layout. Each has its (layout) advantages and (cost) disadvantages. The real issue here is which option do you actually want (and fits within the budget) for your project? Once you decide that you can explore all your options and then you can move forward. Regarding your comments about the quotes, the 2nd and 3rd quotes appear to be cosmetic because they are not moving plumbing. That's always going to be cheaper. Just because they are not quoting on relocating things though doesn't make them cheaper... Apple vs apples.... Regarding conflicting comments about 'weakening the slab', it depends on what type of slab you have. If it is eg a Melbourne waffle/raft slab then it needs a review of the original drawings and an engineer detail/ certification that cutting it is ok.... neither of which is a very big undertaking. If it is a simple 100mm slab then it is no big deal to sort. The reality for you in this is that at the moment you are on a learning curve, getting a little bit of info from each of the people you have spoken to. Without knowing what state you are in and what type of home you have then they could conceivably all be telling you the truth. Yes, if you need to alter the plumbing then you obviously need to deal with the slab. Yes if you want to have a walk in shower you need to lower the plumbing as we said earlier and it means you need to deal with the slab to do so. Yes if you have a waffle slab you need to allow for it to be cut and reinforced properly. You may well need to reinforce the slab, and any modifications to it may cost, hence your builders quote taking that into account. Whether you can fit that in the budget will determine whether you can change the layout or not, and whether you do the plumbing. If not then a cosmetic reno will be limited to tiling at the same heights by either replacing the base with screed to create fall as one has suggested or tiling over another base ( I wouldn't do this). Ultimately if reworking the layout blows the budget then many people here will be able to suggest amazing cosmetic changes to create the wow factor your job deserves. Your next step is to make the decision on which way you want to go so that the Houzzers here can give you lots more ideas... Cheers

Hi Liz, I understand your concern about waterproofing. I guess it depends on who does it. I'm extremely thorough. The last time I waterproofed I read every piece of technical information from the suppliers. When I went to order the materials, I asked for things that even the suppliers did not know was in the recommended procedure. I'd warrant my own detailed waterproofing over some tradie in a rush to get to the next job. Not saying they are all like that, but I value and trust my own approach as well. In terms of a certificate, a workaround for a through DIY job is to take detailed photos on installation, similar to what a Building Certifier would be looking for on inspection (not that we can rely on Building Certifiers nowadays either)!!!! My point is that a certificate does not necessarily guarantee a thorough job. Just ask the apartment owners at Mascot..... PS Liz good point on the visibility of a clear 50mm threshold, versus a barely visible one where the toe can scuff...

Sorry I wasn't clear , but I think you have misunderstood what I was getting at . If you kept the shower in the position you showed it , with the 1000 long glass and the 490 opening , and a lip across the opening -- the 'accepted' thing would be to place the showerhead at the far end . BUT if you had it on the right wall , angled down obviously , but pointing towards the glass side , you would get less water splashing out , thereby possibly avoiding the need to have a door ? Ironically too , having that shower narrower ( 800 wide ) will help contain the water .