Hi there I thought I would jump in here a touch as you are on the right track but there are some glaring points that need to be cleared up for you before you go and purchase flooring. Laminate flooring is a Hi Def image of Timber flooring/oak/Natural Species etc and then transposed using a heat method to a MDF or HDF core, then profiled with a click system for ease of installation, maintenance relocation and repair. Good laminate flooring (Quikstep or Krono Swiss) can be very rewarding , look very much like natural timber, and be very durable against scratching and indentation. Laminates nemesis is high saturation of water or moisture. Good e budget solution for all living areas and rooms except toilets bathroom or laundrys. Engineered boards are a veneer of Natural timber and are just as durable as the solid version of whatever species you choose. Whether that be Spotted Gum, Jarrah or Oak. Sorry but you CAN re sand engineered boards. When re sanding occurs through a professional sander, the top .5mm is the depth of the product that you generally ever really need to remove. Some engineered flooring has a 6mm wear layer/ veneer and that's more than if you purchased a solid 19mm raw timber floor. Engineered boards are less likely "cup"(edge of the boards rising so that you can see a little lip) than a solid. We would recommend that if you are considering a timber floor please consult a retailer that only handles timber and specializes in that medium. Hope this helped

@wayne For hydronics talk to Gary Flood at the Enter Shop. They are in Melbourne but he has installers everywhere. http://www.enter-shop.com.au/ Alternatively Alex at AJs Plumbing http://www.ajsplumbing.com.au/ We generally do in-slab hydronics but have also done it inside a rammed earth wall (at our office so feel free to come and look) and underneath a timber floor (several times including in our office). Insulation is critical. In a slab make sure you insulate the slab edge as well as the underside. When we talk of hydronics we generally use heat pumps to create the hot water (it's free to run if powered by PV). You mentioned wetback stoves (wood powered heating). In my view timber is only a viable option in rural settings. In (sub)urban settings the particulate pollution is a serious health issue and there is a fair chance that at some stage woodstoves will not be permitted by urban Councils. You finished by talking of ducted air conditioning. Regardless of the technology used to generate the heat/coolth, ducted systems are inherently inefficient and, in my view, should be avoided at all costs. The heat pumps can be great but the principle of pushing heated air around requires pump energy (you have to move large volumes of air). Almost all residential installations have flexiduct (not rigid as in commercial offices), the ductwork (aside from a study showing 80% of them did not meet the Australian Standard insulation code) due to its flexi-nature has lots and lots of curves and bends all of which increase the need for pump energy. This is why is it not possible to get a rated systems as you can with a split system; it is totally dependant on installation quality. You also need to be mindful of condensation issues in ductwork as heated air passes through relatively cold roof spaces, again quality of ductwork can be a big factor here.

I don't know about the osmo, I have only looked at it on the net. If you are looking for the satin look, I can guarantee that is what you will achieve with three coats of the livos Kunos oil as I have used hundreds of litres of it. If you look at their web site it will answer all of your questions and don't hesitate to call them. I would also ask if they have a recommended floor sander in your area, as it is not your normal sand and apply. Keep the questions coming if you have any. There is nothing I enjoy more than knowing that out timber resources are being treated in the best possible manner. These shots are of my own jarrah floor that show the scratches from the couch and after 2 mins repair. If this had been a poly floor the only option would be to sand the entire house.

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